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phantom

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Everything posted by phantom

  1. I found another descrepancy I dont know if it is related to the same issue, but it is wall related. The model is sliced with 4 walls, and shows gaps in the layer view on the first layer infill, and thicker infill lines all throughout the rest of the layers. Slicing the same file with 2 walls thickness doesn't seem to do that and shows a clean slice. I printed the models first 2 layers but they are so compressed that it doesn't really show anything in real life or in a picture. Hope this helps you guys in figuring out the problem :-) slice first layer: Slice second layer: 2 walls first layer no issues cura 3-5.3mf 4 walls first layer issues cura 3-5.3mf
  2. Hi Samrtavionics, Saved it as you said how to save it, let me know if this is sufficient. destroyerfinal 3-4-1.curaproject.3mf destroyerfinal 3-5.curaproject.3mf
  3. Hi smartavionics, I have attached both the file made in 3.4.1 and 3.5. In addition, saving the sliced file also takes much longer Hope it helps! destroyerfinal cura 3-4-1.3mf destroyerfinal cura 3-5.3mf
  4. Well the problem has returned ! 3.5 slices ultra slow, and 3.4.1 still works very fast. Tried another model to slice: 3.4.1 5 seconds slicing 3.5 beta 15 seconds to slice Any ideas what's causing this ?
  5. It prints nicely so great job there, but what happened to the slicing speed ??? It feels extremely slow so i timed a model with same settings on 3.4.1 and 3.5, the first sliced in 18 seconds, it took version 3.5 1.41minutes :-O Edit, all seems to work normal now with similar speed as 3.4.1, even after starting and closing the beta a couple of times didn't seem to change the slicing time, now its working normally and cant figure out why, no other programs running so hope this was a temporary bug.
  6. Thats why i advised you not to speed up and loosen tension on such a heavy spool.
  7. Just print a wall that doesn't go beyond the nozzle diameter.
  8. If you start to hear clicking sounds when putting a 2.2kg spools on the back instead of the standard 750-1000 gram, the last thing you should do is speed up the print, and loosen the tension, try the other way around.
  9. Either way, you'll never get a cube the exact dimensions, it's not a cnc machine.
  10. Try PETG, it's heat resistant to about 88c degrees, and weather resistant also, ever seen half a coke bottle outside deteriorated from the weather?
  11. I had the same issue with 3.4, i came home and my print had stopped before it was finished and retracted the filament back 30-40 cm's or so in the Bowden tube. That has never happened before and I have been using Cura since the old 12. Versions
  12. Glad it improved, as it really is a good filament, if you find the small sweet spot.
  13. I would first start with 50mm/s at 205 and build up speed from there on. It's pretty flexible filament so normal temp and speed settings compared to less flexy PLA does not work. If you can adjust the extruder to put a little more pressure on the filament.
  14. Your temp setting depends on your speed setting. And never had issue with layer bonding. After bondtech extruder I did a print at 65mm/s with 0.25 layer height at 220 degrees Celsius. I love the stuff now but only after the upgraded extruder but that was the machine not the PLA.
  15. That makes sense, but minifigs heads look very clean as well so that had me questioning how you print it this clean. I would have been really surprised if the tolerance would have been higher then 0.05mm. I don't thing it would be this nice. My guess was Colorfabb PLA, but had not heard of Polyalchemy or Fillamentum and i see they have the same tolerances. Going to try those out sometime, thanks ?
  16. What brand of pla did you use? And how did you manage to print the top half of the trophy as I don't see any support deformities under the cup which looks like about 40 degrees of an angle. Very nicely made !
  17. You can set the layer height for both wall and support for quit some time now in cura, but single extruder won't be able to give a reliable result seeing that both will need different temp settings. You could use the temp setting for the walls as standard and then really slow down the speed for support to get that 0.3mm layer out the nozzle with that same temp for the 0.1mm wall ,but that defeats the purpose of optimization and the difference in pressure will be problematic also. So unless you're using a dual extruder the difference of 0.2mm in layers is too much to get nice results.
  18. I use Etac Private Stock colours which is water based acrylics, they are for airbrushing but I brush them. I just use the basic transparant set which has 6 colours, white,black,red,magenta, yellow,blue with them I mix what I need.
  19. My first attempt at painting skin tones, think it worked out oke
  20. I wish it would make a folder on the SD card with the same folder structure as on the source you open it from. So if the folder you open the file from is for example C:/3dprints/movies/example.stl that it would then save to the SD card which have the same folder structure but then G:/3dprints/movies/example.gcode As we used to have with old cura. Now each time you save a file you have to save to sd card, open the folder and cut and paste the file to the desired folder time and time again. Never understood why that useful function was taken out, at least it should remember the last folder you where in the last save.
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