phantom

Indeed it is not an easy process and has a steep learning curve, and would have elucidated if asked what was meant but first let people think about it, as he might have found what I meant right away. You learn faster when finding it yourself then people telling you how it works.

Speed is in mm/s not %, you need to check the cura settings, not the Ultimaker setting on the display as that is just the percentage of what you set as speed in cura. So what is the speed setting you used? Either way it's sorted but it will make communication a lot easier if you use the correct terminology

You should post your printer settings you used, without it it's guessing.

You can't print with a 0.8mm nozzle with that speed setting and temperature, that's crazy fast and way too cold so start there. Most printers with 0.4mm nozzle wont like printing at that speed and temperature let alone 0.8mm Also understand that increasing flow is not a solution to underextrusion and always start with speed and temperature settings first.

Good luck with it, and enjoy the firmware options!

Nou gelukkig maar dan en succes

70% of what speed setting?

Geen idee aangezien het hier niet om een UM gaat, misschien even vragen op het forum van je printer of andere slicing software proberen?

That's good news

Je file is niks mis mee. Misschien interpreteer je de afmetingen verkeerd? 12×6.3×2 cm groot. Gebruik je wellicht een andere printer dan de UM's ?

I have no knowledge of gcode at all, haven't needed it in 4 years. Can't see why simplify3d would work differently as tinkergnome is just a customizable firmware that gives you more acces to printer settings. Give it a go, you won't be disappointed

So basically your fans aren't working but your question is that it over extrudes? Maybe you should adjust the topic name/start a new, so when this gets solved other people that experience the same problem can find it more easily.

Go for tinkerware, it has much more functions that are very handy in adjusting the printer, and gives you much more control. Wouldn't want to go back to standard firmware and miss out on all the extras.

Upgrades esentially are not because something is not working right, but because it improves your printer and enhances the prints in the first place. It can come in handy when you do have problems and it solves it. A Geared feeder is much more precise,also this one is easier to adjust pressure on your filament which makes it easier if you have underextrusion issues or when changing to different types of filament by changing the grip. The fan shroud is an upgrade due to better airflow which is not for ABS but again it's not for issues you have, it's improving what you have and other filaments will benefit. I myself upgraded to a bondtech extruder as my motor didn't do a well enough job at 1500 print hours. I can also print much faster now and i wish I would have bought it much earlier and safe me some workarounds i did to improve my prints. I bought it together with a new Bowden tube as that had just as many hours and together cost me $270, add an Olsson block and some nozzles, and your already very close to the same price without the additional parts.

Bedoel je niet de hoogte? Je kan elke as apart schalen waardoor lijnen op de betreffende as dikker zullen worden maar het ontwerp vervormt, behalve de z as.

Met cura kan je helaas niet de lijnen dikker maken, behalve door het complete ontwerp te vergroten zal dit dikker worden naar rato.

Maybe try the same print while the printer is in a bigger room so you can rule out if it's the high temps

Loosen the pulleys, push the rods in from the back or the side, depending on which axis your working on,push the pulley to the the side it is sitting at with your other hand while tighten the screw. Push as per the arrow in the picture:

Maybe you tightened the pulleys without pushing them against the sides and therefore the rods are moving during printing? A simple way to check is where the rods protrude from the outside, is to hold your fingers on them while printing and feel if they move in or out the should be quit level to the holes in the covers. Don't be offended, but turning a screw loose while you think you're tightening it, it might be best to take it to the shop or have someone take a look at it which knows what they are doing, especially when you need it for a client who is waiting for the parts. Hope it gets fixed soon.

If you upgraded the UM2 to UM2+ you must have ordered the kit via ultimaker which has all the parts, otherwise you didn't upgrade it fully to an UM2+ but just upgraded parts yourself but didn't include all parts the UM2+ uses seeing you're still using the old fan shroud. If the nozzles is leaking you didn't put it back together correctly if you did not have issues before with this nozzle. Remove the head completely and start over after cleaning. Make sure you heat the block to about 170-180 degrees Celsius when putting on the nozzles and print this to from Mr Olsson to help you get the right torque setting for the next time you have to switch nozzles: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench

Wow the hand turner out Nice that we'd been talking about on that video jou made Once i get mine redone I'll post a pic but these all look great!

Thanks for explaining gr5, i'll give it a try and hope tinkergnome firmware will work with it just as well.

Thanks for the tip, will that have influence on anything else?

I also have an issue with that as there is no way to enter cost of filament, especially when you use different brands of filament which all costs differentiate. Using the UM2+ profile shows difference with UM2 profile in time and meters of material while setting are exactly the same and do see quality differences when printing with both profiles and same setting on the same model. Don't know where that is coming from.

Sure it's not residue from the filament and tried scraping it off ? Pieces can come of the glass when you have print thats stuck and u use force, but those fine lines don't look like damaged glass too me and I had some damage on my glass bed after extensive use but still running the original, maybe yours is faulty. Must admit I haven't printed CPE though.