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Labern last won the day on September 2 2020

Labern had the most liked content!

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  1. Hi there. It looks like the model is not a solid model and there may be an open face or have errors in it. Some programs like SketchUp allow you to draw faces that don't form a solid model. Which means that if you were to fill it with water it would leak.
  2. Today I printed a reverse camera holder and plastic welded it into the number plate light cover.
  3. So I have found my post-processing script and found it works in Cura 4.8. Problem is I used someone else script and changed it to suit my needs and their script has a Copyright so I don't really want to share it until I know what that means and what steps I would need to take before I can share it.
  4. I'm guessing this is a z layer change. But have you looked at you model in x ray mode to see if there is any areas that are problematic? Or looked at movements in layer view to see what kind of movement this is?
  5. I used CURA and a post-processing scrypt that I made. I will have the scrypt somewhere but it will only work with a older version of cura. I think the laser connects to one of the fan connections to give it PWM control so you can adjust the laser power via scrypt.
  6. Hi there. You must have a loose pulley which is causing shited layers. Here is a guide to correct it. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted Also check both short belts while your at it. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011598659-Check-the-tension-of-the-short-belts
  7. Would be able to show a screenshot of layerview with your support settings?
  8. Hey there. You need to load your stl file into ultimaker Cura. Cura will then slice the model ready for you to print. Then you save the sliced model onto the sd card and it will print for you.
  9. Just be careful putting them in the oven as an oven a low temps can fluctuate too much and overheat the spool. I tend to use the heat bed of the printer. A food dehydrator also works very well. If it is too dry then I would leave it out in open for a 4 or 5 hours and it would soften enough. But I live in 60+ humidity
  10. There are many options for adjusting the amount of support. By default supports normally extend past the print by 3mm or so which you can adjust with the support horizontal expansion setting. There is a Support blocker to stop unwanted support Also the support angle can be adjusted. I find I can normally print fine up to 60deg and default is set to 45deg. This page Here will give you a lot of useful information to improve your supports.
  11. Under quality there is a "Skirt/brim line width" check to see what that setting is as I maybe wider then your nozzle width. Also there is a "initial Layer Line Width" which is a percentage.
  12. Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Was thinking of making something like myself one day so this will be a perfect guide.
  13. I think the fan shroud is just slightly wider and the head must have been very close to touching before you upgraded. My UM2 rubbed from the factory when I got it and fan shroud wasn't bent so I had to put a slight bend in the sensor. Unless you skipped the belt on one side which isn't that easy then you alignment should be fine. There are alignment tools on to imagine that you can print to check/correct this. Or move print head to one side and see if one sliding block hits the pulley before the other side.
  14. Hi. This was a common issue and you can just put a slight bend in the tongue of the micro switch so it clicks before the fan shroud hits the side of the machine.
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