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Everything posted by Labern

  1. Today I printed a reverse camera holder and plastic welded it into the number plate light cover.
  2. So I have found my post-processing script and found it works in Cura 4.8. Problem is I used someone else script and changed it to suit my needs and their script has a Copyright so I don't really want to share it until I know what that means and what steps I would need to take before I can share it.
  3. I'm guessing this is a z layer change. But have you looked at you model in x ray mode to see if there is any areas that are problematic? Or looked at movements in layer view to see what kind of movement this is?
  4. I used CURA and a post-processing scrypt that I made. I will have the scrypt somewhere but it will only work with a older version of cura. I think the laser connects to one of the fan connections to give it PWM control so you can adjust the laser power via scrypt.
  5. Hi there. You must have a loose pulley which is causing shited layers. Here is a guide to correct it. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted Also check both short belts while your at it. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011598659-Check-the-tension-of-the-short-belts
  6. Would be able to show a screenshot of layerview with your support settings?
  7. Hey there. You need to load your stl file into ultimaker Cura. Cura will then slice the model ready for you to print. Then you save the sliced model onto the sd card and it will print for you.
  8. Just be careful putting them in the oven as an oven a low temps can fluctuate too much and overheat the spool. I tend to use the heat bed of the printer. A food dehydrator also works very well. If it is too dry then I would leave it out in open for a 4 or 5 hours and it would soften enough. But I live in 60+ humidity
  9. There are many options for adjusting the amount of support. By default supports normally extend past the print by 3mm or so which you can adjust with the support horizontal expansion setting. There is a Support blocker to stop unwanted support Also the support angle can be adjusted. I find I can normally print fine up to 60deg and default is set to 45deg. This page Here will give you a lot of useful information to improve your supports.
  10. Under quality there is a "Skirt/brim line width" check to see what that setting is as I maybe wider then your nozzle width. Also there is a "initial Layer Line Width" which is a percentage.
  11. Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Was thinking of making something like myself one day so this will be a perfect guide.
  12. I think the fan shroud is just slightly wider and the head must have been very close to touching before you upgraded. My UM2 rubbed from the factory when I got it and fan shroud wasn't bent so I had to put a slight bend in the sensor. Unless you skipped the belt on one side which isn't that easy then you alignment should be fine. There are alignment tools on to imagine that you can print to check/correct this. Or move print head to one side and see if one sliding block hits the pulley before the other side.
  13. Hi. This was a common issue and you can just put a slight bend in the tongue of the micro switch so it clicks before the fan shroud hits the side of the machine.
  14. Have any pictures you could add? Also is it fully stock?
  15. You can't just select faces for fuzzy skin but you can divide the model into separate parts. Use per object settings and apply the fuzzy skin to the parts you want then merge the models to be able to achieve what you want. All this depends on if you have access to the model files.
  16. Did it show the threads in layer view? Or just in the model view?
  17. You can access digital factory using webpage on your phone. I use both app and digital factory for UM3 as digital factory lacks features that the app has. It's a pain but I think the focus will be put more into digital factory and hopefully gain more features there for UM3.
  18. Hi It looks like it's overextruding the last layer. This maybe due to the thickness of the part and compensation for small gaps or something. You could try concentric top/bottom layers.
  19. Sorry it was meant to be retractions. Stupid auto correct. Yeah it's meant to be more clear/ white. The more moisture it gets the more yellow. There is a difference in side of glass. Sticker side is the side your meant to use. Some materials it doesn't matter but it always helps to have it the correct way around.
  20. Normally you can if its gone bad if it hisses and crackles when it prints or if the roll looks quite yellow . I have had one roll that's was bad from new but generally it should be good. Does it have a lot of retractions On the parts that are not printing well? Does the glass plate have the warning sticker facing up?
  21. Ahh yes now I remember. The model I designed rotates the feeder around a bit so it would fit. Drilling 2 holes is probably the best option. Swap the 2 outer wires.
  22. Yes the wires still need swapping as when you install the kit on an UM2 ultimaker tell you to install the UM2+ firmware. In this firmware the direction is reversed. Swapping the wires allows you to reverse it without firmware change. Not sure about motor size difference. I'm sure when I j stalled the kit on my um2 it was the same size as the old one. I would stick to the original um2go feeder then. It will also give your feeder better resolution.
  23. Looks like there is a lip on the top of the part that sticks out and why it's creating support. You can add support blocker to the top section of you part and will stop your unwanted support. Sometimes I try to adjust the support angle from 45 deg to 60 to reduce support on angled parts.
  24. It will crash in the corner of the printer as the x y coordinates will be off. Sure I will share them this weekend some time.
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