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Labern

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Posts posted by Labern


  1. 12 hours ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    Great thread! 

     

    I would be curious to know how closely these expansion parameters transfer to the UM3.  I would like to dial dimensional tolerance in a bit better there as well.

     

    Thanks

    John

    It pretty much works for every printer. I use it sometimes on my UM2+, The amount of adjustment required may change per printer though. 

    • Thanks 1

  2. To help remove the elephant's foot you can lower the initial layer height to 0.1.

    I also use initial layer horizontal expansion set to -0.2 for a 0.4mm nozzle.

    I normally adjust my designs so holes are +0.3 for small holes through to +0.1 for large holes. as the smaller the hole the bigger the pull-in effect effects the size of the hole. 


  3. Well with PLA and trying to get perfect details then you want as little heat as possible. The Aluminium build plate wasn't meant for PLA and inclosure is also not wanted for what you want to achieve. Its more meant for engineering materials. Different materials require different methods to gain the best results. 

    To get a good curve on the bottom of a PLA print you don't want any heat on the bed or the rising heat will make the edges curl up too much and give bad results. A 45deg shape will always give a better result than a full curve on the bottom as a curve has a steeper angle the gradually gets less. 

    I normally put a small 45 deg angle at the base where the steep part of the curve would normally be is to avoid this or I use breakaway support material.

    You can also reduce the layer height to reduce the amount of overhang of filament for each layer. 


  4. All version of cura should have both UM2 and UM2+ firmware. You can manually select the one you want to install by selecting install custom firmware. In the (cura version)/resources/firmware folder you can find UM2 and UM2+ firmware

     

    But you should have a look at Tinkerware. Its a great addition to your UM2 and you can even change the direction of the feeder in the menu. you can find it Here


  5. This is an Ultimaker forum so you may not get your answer here. But check your nozzle is clean. Maybe carry out an atomic pull. Check filament passes through the bowden tube and nozzle properly. You can heat the nozzle, open the feeder and push filament through by hand and it should push through without too much force. 

    other then that have a look for a CR10 forum which may offer better advice. 


  6. I would turn off retract before outer wall. It probably oozed a bit during travel moves and then underextruded on the pillars.

    For something like this, you are a lot better off not printing it as one piece. Not only would you have a heap of print time and PVA but you could get a lot better quality pillars. If you designed this yourself then you can make the pillars slot into place and add a dab of glue.

    • Like 1

  7. Yeah, I also find nGen quite brittle using the 0.25 nozzle. I would probably increase the temp a bit, Turn off Z-Hop and avoid printed parts when travelling to reduce travel times and keep heat on the part. nGen doesn't really have the best bond to itself which means that the strength between each wall and layer is not hugely strong. Using a 0.25mm nozzle means you have even less strength cos the print lines are so small. 

    Keeping the part as warm as possible without affecting your print quality is the best solution. So maybe up the temp and play with retraction, travels and combing to reduce oozing.


  8. If layer view looks ok then you probably have under extrusion or a problem with your z-axis.

    If its the same height in every print then it will be Z-Axis. but if you get it randomly then is probably under extrusion.

    A closer look at the missing layers would help determine your issue and sharing what printer you have and material used, settings like nozzle size, speed, temp and layer height will also help.

     


  9. On 3/2/2019 at 2:09 AM, WesleyE said:

    @ultiarjan , thanks for trying this version! We also probe the 'movement area' of the first layer since we need to move there with the nozzle, so we also need to compensate for build plate deformation in order to prevent potentially scratching the bed. That is why you are seeing the bigger probe area you illustrate.

     

     

    Could a Z-hop be added on the first layer to the first extrusion point for both extruders and travels to the material change position? This would eliminate any risk of scratching in the larger movement area. 

    • Like 2

  10. To me, the 10cm up is nice as I won't have to manually move the material. change the core then guess how far to manually push the material back into the core.

    I did find some materials did require heating the core like TPU and PP as they would have a string stuck that wasn't easy to break by pulling.

    You could put a mark on the bowden tube to where you need to manually feed the material to as it will now be a visible location.

    would be a nice feature for UM to add this mark and notify people that if the need to manually move material for any reason to move it up to the mark to prevent grinding or under extrusion. maybe a small band of red heat-shrink or something could be used. 

    • Like 1

  11. I think you will have issues with bed levelling. The original idea was to have a button on the screen that you select to tell it the alloy plate is installed so it could count for that. But not too sure.

    Also you may have some issues trying to machine such a large area and get the correct flatness as it will tend to try and warp on you. The tolerance on stock MIC6 is 0.125mm which is not so ideal. 

    But yes. Do try. You might get what you're wanting. 


  12. I use adhesion sheets on mine and its no issue. Maybe you have a sensor issue and should contact your reseller.

    The reason it probes with a hot nozzle is in case there is a bit of losing that has gone hard and sticks out, it will level your bed at the wrong height. The hot nozzle should melt through your adhesion sheet but if its pressing though it then the sensor in the print head isnt detecting the change in values.

    Are you running the latest firmware.


  13. I more wanted it for the security of knowing that this setting won't change doesn't matter what I do as currently I don't have any trust in this and have lost these setting changes a few times. But you are right, Being able to select which values to keep/discard would be a good alternative. 


  14. Yeah, but I would like to keep those values locked in place so you can make temporary changes that when you are asked to keep or discard changes, Ones that are locked will always be kept but unlocked ones can be discarded and set back to default.

    I have some settings that I never change and would like to be set a certain way whether it's a custom profile or default. So having it locked would be nice. but then sometimes I might make a few small changes depending on the model that can be discarded once that print is done. 


  15. I would be nice to have a setting lock in cura. Where in custom settings if you change a value a small padlock comes up next to that block in which you could lock that setting. This will remain there regardless of core, printer or material change etc. A small popup could come up saying that you have locked settings as a warning when you do change printers or cores but you can ignore it if you wish. This could allow some people to keep a setting which they prefer to be altered at all times to remain in place regardless if its a default profile or custom one. A simple click of that padlock would then unlock that setting allowing you to revert back to the default setting.

     

     

    1887616765_SettingLock.thumb.jpg.103edfab79572e6f0043879bb76e979e.jpg


  16. You might want to have a look at THIS thread and THIS  one. @gr5 has done a lot of work testing different materials and has built a machine for testing them. But you may gain some ideas on how to do your tests.

     

    Keep in mind that changing print temps and layer heights can affect your results. 

     

    This is a bit off topic but You might also want to look at other aspects of the prints other than just strength. Most of the time these reinforced materials are used for there mechanical properties. This normally means some sort of tolerance is also involved. So measuring see the dimensional accuracy is also another interesting comparison that could help someone decide what's the best material to use for there application. I also find that some of these filled filaments can have quite bad stringing. If your printing a mechanical part with holes for fixtures then this can be an issue also.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
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