Labern

Is it too hard to implement zoom in direction of mouse pointer? viewing layer view and multiple parts sucks without it.

If you turn the visibility of Wall Count back on then click on the curved arrow. this will reset it back to default and should work again.

Take the glass off the printer and use a straight edge or steel rule to check to see if the glass is flat. There has been issues with bent glass beds and i suspect this to be an issue in your case. If it is bent then contact your reseller. You should only need to re-level your bed once every month with PLA unless you print with other more tricky materials.

You can get spray on circuit board coatings to protect it against the salty air. If you regularly coat the rods in sewing machine oil then they should be fine (which you have to do anyway) But there is always a risk of some corrosion somewhere. Could you put a seal on the door of your closet?

That's the only change they made regarding this. Did you do a factory reset after the change you made?

Yeah I wouldn't go for a Raise3d especially if you need fine details. At that level filament printers are not the best option, although they are getting better they cant compete with a SLA just yet. Anyway a Ultimaker will provide better details and quality despite the Raise3D 10 micron claims as they have a few major design flaws.

Spec wise yes you can print at 0.02 and the ability in the software is present, but really by the eye you can't​ see a difference between 0.02 and 0.04. A profile will come if and when they release a 0.25 nozzle but it won't be 0.02 layer height. Im guessing 0.04 maybe. If you really need to print that fine then get a form2.

0.04 produces a lot better quality then 0.02. if you use a smaller nozzle then you get a lot more detail. but then its had to control extrusion at such small rates. Don't expect a profile for this. its something that you will just need to learn the advanced settings and how to best tweek them to get what you require.

So how well does this work on a model that has overhangs and bridging?

It needs to have some sort of auto mode with the direction UM is heading. I would like bridge detection where it increases the layer thickness on the first layer while bridging. And Varislice. Also the ability to manually increase the layer thickness in a set range.

This is the change that E3D put in the firmware. The 20 is for the extruder (x,y,z,e). Should be in the configuration.h file DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)

Just set the line width to 0.8 or similar and it will work. It's the same as setting the nozzle size.

It's a bit disappointing hearing that its hard to implement something like Varislice as I thought the whole point of the new plugin style CURA was to make it easy to add in features like these. By that's just my programming ignorance. I'm just glad it's on the developer's radar. Because this would be a epic feature for CURA.

You can remove the cover for the stepper motor on the inside of the printer. Then hold the mother in place as you screw the feeder on.

You should be able to see these gaps in layer view. How many perimeter lines do you have? Maybe reduce then to 2 and use standard lines top/bottom pattern. Or adjust the line thickness a bit. Just check layer view after each change.

That's true. But if it's not squished then you tend to also get very visible lines of the print path. I actually have my own methods of initial layer sticking. But this is mainly biased towards the UM3 using auto bed leveling and default settings, Even UM2 following the bed leveling procedure using the card and not having to use any of these products or methods. You could solve this by one setting in CURA that users can adjust as needed.

This is not about adhesion methods, it's about removing the sharp lip on the bottom of your prints.

Yes those are nice biased options but they don't fit inside the UM2go Carry case. But my biased option does

Have you tried hot pulls followed by cold pulls? I had a bad jam with PVA that had high water content. Was able to clear it by heating it up hot. Then pushing in filament quite hard for a short​ duration so I wouldn't melt too much. Then pull. Did that quite a few times. Every time it dragged out some old stuff till I was able to do an atomic pull.

Yes quite a few people have this issue and I have not seen a resolution yet.

You can install the UM2+ Upgrade kit on it which comes with the Olsson block new fans and geared feeder. The geared feeder that comes in the kit is on the wrong side but you can print a new housing for it. I did this on my UM2go.

One of the issues with 3D printing is getting a nice bottom layer that sticks well onto the glass. To do this you end up squashing the first layer into the glass which creates a sharp lip on the bottom of your prints. It's then standard practice for a lot of designers like myself to put a small chamfer on the bottom of your part to remove this lip. But a problem is when you find a nice design on youmagine (or other evil sharing sites ) and the designer did not put a chamfer. To I ran some tests and found that if you set a negative horizontal expansion value on the first few layers then you can get a nice square edge on the bottom without this lip. I had to load 2 designs and use per object settings to achieve this but it would be a good feature to implement into CURA. It really needs 2 different horizontal inputs to get it perfect. One for the bottom layer and one for the second layer as it's also a bit wider than the rest of the print. This is an upside-down photo (bad photo I know) of a print with the default settings and showing the sharp edge. This is a photo with -0.3 horizontal expansion on the bottom layers.

I find brim easy to peel off so I don't really see why people hate it. If needed I use a sharp knife held 90deg to the part so it doesn't cut into the part. It just scrape's the edge. But I don't use brim very often as it's not required most of the time

Moisture won't effect Ninjaflex. The bubbles you are seeing is overheating. You need to either print faster or lower the heat. I print ninja flex between 10mm/s and 20mm/s

Ninja flex is not a beginner filament. What settings are you currently using? You need to print slooooww and at around 240 deg. Not that you require good ventilation when printing at high temp as it releases toxic fumes. Also wipe a bit of oil on the filament so it's not so grippy in the Bowden tube. Turn off retractions as well and set the travel speed to 250 - 300mm/s