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Labern

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Everything posted by Labern

  1. Labern
    Yes, If you go into the settings menu on the printer How long are you waiting for it to boot up?
  2. Labern
    PLA shrinks heaps. It pulls in when the nozzle moves like a rubber band. There are so many factors that can effect the accuracy of the finished product. Print Speed, Temp, Layer Height, Acceleration, Filament Type, Filament Brand plus many more. It depends on the model how to best combat this issue. Internal dimensions of holes are the most effected. There is a Horizontal expansion setting that you can use to help resolve that. Sometimes its best to print out a section of your model where you need the accuracy. Measure it and adjust your design. This way it can be a lot faster and save a lot of plastic. I normally design holes 0.3mm bigger then actual for example.
  3. Labern
    You Might Want to turn off Brim. If set to none you can get it a bit bigger but yeah. still not stated specs.
  4. Labern
    Yeah Brim sucks on the most part but I guess the simple profiles are for new users. Seeing first layer adheasion is one of the biggest issues heince the auto bed leveling. Then making sure people who make their first prints have no issues is probably their main objective. It's the whole "just press print and it will magically work perfectly" goal that manufactures have. I think in this case it could be on by default while in simple mode but turned off by default in custom mode. Or even have a note packed in with the glass saying "don't get your greasy mits all over me" and a few tips on how to make sure it's all going to work. I do find it a bit annoying that it's on by default in custom mode and always turn it off. It has caught me out a few times but that's why there is a feature to create your own profiles.
  5. Labern
    There Used To be that warning. Maybe there is a bug so its not displaying it. Not sure why it would slice sometimes and not others. It maybe a bug also or maybe the print was moved to the side a bit?
  6. Labern
    This Can be turned off in the settings under General, Scale Large Models. It should Warn you that the size was reduced. Well it used to.
  7. Labern
    How long have you had the Roberts feeder on your print? Check all the parts as they can bend over time from the load the are under. Make sure there is a gap behind the "yoke?" To ensure the spring Dorset is fully on the filament and not the feeder frame. Your describing the the hotend is all good. No problems with feeder or rods then it doesn't leave many other things except for material. You can install tinkergnomes firmware and adjust the e steps to get the lines touching but this is a workaround.
  8. Labern
    It could be that you knurled feeder wheel needs cleaning or it could have worn a bit so the little triangles are not as sharp anymore. To test this you could clean it and move it to a new spot on the knurled wheel. Are you positive it's not on older prints? The lines not touching thing has been an unexplained issue on a lot of new machine prior to UM2+ And I even got a new UM2go that had this issue from day 1 and was never resolved. I have since upgraded my UM2go to a UM2go+ and it's well worth doing. I would also use the TFM coupler (or TFT) as it's a lot better then the PTFE. Changing the axis rods have helped some people. If they are bent in the middle the bed leveling can be good as it's measured in the outer corners can be fine but the middle distance can be greater.
  9. Labern
    You can merge lots of parts and mix the 2 colored materials to make other colors. Did you draw them in the same part file or separate? Are the parts designed in the correct position to the origin in Onshape?
  10. Labern
    I normally set it and paper test on the first step so I end up doing the paper test twice. As when you make adjustments on one point it effects the other measurement points.
  11. Labern
    No I don't think it has any importance. Just to make sure it's not so badly out that it will crash when doing the paper routine. So a visual check to make sure it's flat enough to do the paper test.
  12. Labern

    UltiSandervG

    Labern posted a file in 3D Prints

    More information about "UltiSandervG"

    Version 1.0

    1,066 downloads

    The Mighty Bearded Sander Bot. If you want to print one there are some terms and conditions to follow. Terms and conditions: 1.The amount of hair on the UltiSandervG is not a true representation. 2. The Hair on the UltiSandervG Does not grow. 3. Although the UltiSandervG is taller then the Standard Ultibot, Its not a true representation of SandervG's actual height. 4. UltiSandervG Cannot hear complaints about the forum. 5.The UltiSandervG does not give political responses to issues raised. 6. You Must style the UltiSandervG's hair according to SandervG's Profile Photos and make sure his beard is properly trimmed. 7. SandervG's hair style and beard length may vary so you may need to print more UltiSandervG's to keep up with the current trend. 8. The UltisandervG Must not have a bad hair day. 9. Hair gel does not work on the UltisandervG. 10. UltisandervG must not have bald spots until SandervG has bald spots. 11. When Playing with the UltiSandervG you Must talk with a deep booming mainly voice. 12. The UltiSandervG Must not be engaged in explicit activities or used as a voodoo doll. 13. You must not Use Girly colors when printing the UltiSandervG. 14.The UltiSandervG is there to manage the community of your 3D prints. 15.The UltiSandervG may get homesick if not printed in Geldermalsen so you may need send him back from time to time or take him to visit. 16. Just like the real SandervG, The UltiSandervG like's to party, so please take him along with you.
  13. Labern
    I have the same problems. Extruder 2 will prime, move backwards, retracts and print but extruder 1 will prime, move backwards, retract, move forwards which picks up the prime poo and goes to print dragging the poo directly into you print.
  14. Labern
    Can you show a picture in CURA in layer view with the lattice? Or is that 2 sensitive? What is the tubes thickness? What is the lattices width? What software was used to model the design?
  15. Labern
    if your model is all good then you don't need any. Sometimes they can prevent things that you want. If layer view shows everything is ok then you don't need to turn them off. So did you make changes to correct any issues or does it look fine in layer view but your prints are not good?
  16. Labern
    When was the last time you changed you PTFE coupler? Or are you using TFM or TFT coupler?
  17. Labern
    Try spiralize. it will continuously go around and around. In CURA 2.4 you can also try retract on layer change and you make retractions really fast.
  18. Labern
    There are now 0.4mm Stainless Steel Nozzles. Are you sure they are Stainless Steel and not Chrome plated Brass Nozzles?
  19. Labern
    Do you have the Olsson block or the Matchless V3 like your title shows? Also why are you using a stainless steel nozzle for PLA? Stainless steel nozzles have bad heat transfer and are not suited for PLA. They are not even good for abrasive materials. E3D Hardened nozzle and the Ruby nozzle are a lot better. If you have a UM2 then I would recommend upgrading the heater. The UM2 has a 25w heater and UM2+ has a 35w heater. If you want to print with the big nozzles like 2mm then I would get the 40w.
  20. Labern
    Make sure you check layer view first before any print so you can detect some of these problems. You can even go into CURA setings and have it show one layer at a time to see the missing outer walls. Look at this after every change you make to try and resolve it. I normally leave it in layer view in the problem area and make changes till you see its corrected. I would first check Xray mode to see if any errors in the model and rule that out as an issue. You may need to turn off all of the mesh fix options if your model looks good. The retract count thing can be a double edge sword. You can have heaps and heaps of retractions without grinding if the speed is low. but to remove the vertical string your getting you need the retractions fast. I had same issue recently and set it to 45mm/s Cura 2.4 has Z-hop set quite high which is good for some things but i think you can get away with 0.4 or even turn it off. To also reduce stringing you may need to drop your temp 5 to 10 deg. Enabling coasting is also another method but not something i presonall have experimented with.
  21. Labern
    I guess I void warranty on everything I buy with the first few weeks but that's the nature of a maker isn't it? So I don't normally worry about them and how long they are etc. it's just one of those grey areas for both parties.
  22. Labern
    I use FreeCAD you can find the instructions on how to create a solid model Here then export it to STEP.
  23. Labern
    I had 2.4b installed and when installing 2.4 it asks to uninstall the previous version. Which I clicked yes and it uninstalls it and installs 2.4 Seeing the app data folder never gets removed all your previous settings are transferred to the new version.
  24. Labern
    Also. Are you actually using a 0.25mm nozzle?
  25. Labern
    Maybe you originally had the layer height at 0.2mm not 0.02mm? Also like I said, 15mm/s print speed is very slow. This could be 30mm/s or 50mm/s
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