Labern

Its a bit tricky but you can do it in cura. What you need to do is add a piece in your design as a separate mesh where you don't want the infill. Import both models into cura and select the model for the support replacement. Then select per object settings. Select: Wall thickness, top/bottom thickness and infill. Set all of those to 0. Merge both models and you will now have no support in that area.

Very Nice

Here is a US supplier for UM parts. There are also other dodgy Chinese ones all over the internet.

It's really easy to change out. I would recommend, Unscrew the faulty limit switch. Lay the printer on its side. remove the bottom electronics cover. Gently pull and push on the faulty limit switch cable while looking at the electronics board to determine what wires / plug lead to the faulty switch. Unplug it and tape the new switch to the plug of the faulty switch. Gently pull out the old switch while feeding in the new one. Un-tape and screw in new switch and plug into main board. Put cover back on and stand up printer. Test by homing axis by hand and making sure it clicks (you may need to bend the tab a bit) the in maintenance menu on printer home all axis.

You could try changing the line width ( or nozzle diameter ) A 0.4mm nozzle can print lines larger than 0.4mm and smaller eg 0.3mm Don't adjust the flow as it doesn't adjust the spacing between the lines but manipulating the nozzle size in Cura does.

Under the support menu in CURA you can set the x/y distance offset that you require.

That's good. I tried to reply earlier but It wouldn't work.

No I haven't experienced this. Do your atomic pulls. I don't think this would be the cause and I never do them on mine but it will eliminate it from the back of your mind. CURA 2.4 beta has heaps of profile changes to previous versions so I would revert back to the version you used when you first got you're UM3. You may have to do a fresh install by deleting the CURA folders that hold all the saved profiles to remove any possible changes that may be effecting your issues.

There are multiple different Support materials by different manufacturers (E3D, polymaker). Some dissolve and some just peel off the print. For ABS there is HIPS which you can dissolve in limonene. You can use any of these but Ultimaker only provide print profiles for their own materials. This means you will have to play around to get the best printing results although the material manufacturers normally give you some setting to get you started.

Ultimaker know about this issue and if you contact your local reseller they will replace them. There was an issue with the material used which caused this. If you want to keep printing while you wait for replacements then you can print some of THESE to hold everything together.

The PTFEs can sometimes get destroyed pretty quick with ABS. If atomic pulls are coming out clean and every thing else seems good then it's probably time to check the coupler.

Sounds like you have a problem with you limit switch. It must think that the switch is being pressed in. Toggle the switch with your finger and listen and feel for a "click" If it does not click then you have a faulty switch and will need replacing. If it does click you need to check the wiring, make sure it hasn't worn though or shorted somewhere. You may need to unplug it and check it with a meter to see if it giving an open / closed action when pressed. If you download the ultimaker app there is a section for broken x / y switches under trouble shooting. Or you can look Here

Is the wall thickness to wide if set to 100% flow? This maybe because the filament is getting to hot, try reducing the temp instead. You shouldn't adjust flow to correct any problems.

This is the whole idea of UM3 with dissolvable support as normal Support can really ruin models. The smaller the nozzle size you use the easier it is to remove the support. For models like this I normally use 0.25mm nozzle at 0.1layer height. The print time is nearly the same as 0.4 nozzle at 0.1 layer height and there is no big flat top / bottom surfaces. Also adjust the x/y distance so there is more gap from the model so you don't get bits of support in the tight corners. Chopping up the model and glueing later can also be better and reduce how much support is required.

Yes. What printer are you using? what cura version are you using? UM2 family printer you can go into tune and pause during the print. there are also plugins that you can use called pause-at-z where you can set in cura a height where the printer will pause.

Yes 738 works really well and is what I am using. 369 Steps is what the UM2+ uses and because you are using the original stepper that does double the amount of steps per rotation then 369x2=738

Hi sbrisson. Just a tip on your design. Radial fans are not good at compressing air. This means that if your outlet is smaller then the radial fans area this will slow down the air flow and make the fans less effective. looks nice though and I like the hinged idea.

Temp 1 is a MOLEX-22-05-7028 connector

It not worth upgrading he UM2 or UM2 extended to UM3. The cost would not be much different then buying a UM3 as the change is bigger then you may think. But have a look at this tool change approach as it's the best option for dual printing with a UM2 https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer

Edited my last post about how to calculate it. Not at my computer at the moment but will verify how to check it if someone else doesn't before I get back to it.

The speed setting for all Cura versions are in mm/s but as suggested by @gr5 you can view what the cubic mm/s by hovering over the liner speed. (Copied from here : To figure out how fast you're trying to print you simply multiply your nozzle diameter with the layer height and speed. So for example, if you're printing with 0.2mm layers at 60mm/s you would do: 0.4*0.2*60 = 4.8mm 3/s.

There are default printing speeds in CURA which are in mm/s these are user adjustable and can be saved in user defined profiles. Speed percentage can then be adjusted on the printer when it's printing. This is a percentage of your selected print speed in CURA. So just saying a percentage means nothing. You should never need to adjust it on the machine unless you set the wrong speed vs layer height in CURA. But in that case it's best to stop the print and reslice to get better control over your print.

Onshape now has thread modeling as well

I think I checked and it will clear everything. But just manually check by moving the head around first before starting the printer.