Labern

Yeah. I will try to make sure I get one coated soon to test.

Pla sticks to Ceramic

Yeah I was thinking the same. It's easy for them to only coat a certain area. It's sprayed on then baked at high temp in a oven to cure it. It can withstand 300deg as we used to use it at that temp. So to do a nozzle, you just need to cover the area's you don't want coated. This could be done with a small jig. A diy process would be great if it did work.

Yeah I have only been thinking about trying it for over a year now but not got around to actually doing it. There is a company not far from my place that does it. We used to use it in in the last campany I worked in. It's a slight insulator as well which I found at 200 deg the Teflon surface was about 20deg cooler. This will help stop the fans effecting the temp slightly. Just like frying pans it is susceptible to scratches but I found the industrial coating stronger. Good thing is you can have it recoated if it gets damaged.

The Nozzles could be coated in PTFE like what they put on non stick frying pans. It's not an expensive process to get done.

Sweet. Did you just recently get the UM2+?

Kapton tape is an insulator while copper tape will absorb heat therefore will warp faster. Warping can happen and that's why it helps to print it in the highest temp filament you can get your hands on. As said, no infill required

Woodfill is best printed with 0.6mm nozzles or larger. If printed with 0.4 nozzle then I recommend layer heights of 0.2 and fastish speed to keep it consistently flowing. If you have more issues then maybe best to start a new topic for tips on printing with woodfill

Yeah I have but it doesn't work as well as Chloroform

Hmm going by that list I'm missing quite a few badges.

Yes acetone works on colorfabb PLA/PHA but this will leave white residue on the print after it fully dries. Chloroform on PLA won't crack it or harm it to much. It does soften the outer layer a bit but this hardens after a few hours If he would vapor treat abs he would have to fly it down as it's very tall to give and even treatment but lying it down will mark the side. XT is very clear but has the tendency to leave brown spots. I would recommend it on long prints if you want it in this case.

0.1 layers are pretty smooth so I don't think you will need any treatment.

If printing on glass bed then The bottom of the print has the best finish. Shiny and smooth. I vapor smooth in a glass jar but a tall item like this may give inconsistent results as more vapor will sit at the base and not reach the top of the print. Maybe wiping chloroform on it with a lint free white rag. Just keep sniffing to a minimum You could use XTC-3D smooth-on coating which will make it more like glass.

Acetone gives PLA a white powdery stuff randomly over it. Acetone works better on ABS. And chloroform works best on PLA. 1.5 lip would be heaps. Sorry I don't understand what you mean by "Mar the top"?

I maybe missing something here but If only one end is sealed then print it upsidedown with the sealed end at the bottom.

The matte surface which in this case is not as bright as shiny alloy and provides a slight increase of surface area, it still absorbs heat well but allows it to loose the heat better. This is why most heat sinks are anodized. Although black would be better at releasing the heat.

Good thing about anodized aluminum is that it's not electrically conductive so there is not much risk when attaching electronics to it. It's also a cheap process which you can sometimes get done for free if you ask youre local anodizer nicely.

Unless it's Hard anodized aluminum which is very resistant to wear.

If it's an UM2 (not UM2+) with the old PTFE coupler then I would definitely change it. I would make sure that you replace it with the new one in the UM2+ as they last a lot longer. You could also print a spacer to replace the spring as the spring presses to much over time and deforms the end of the coupler.

When you changed the nozzle did you also change the PTFE coupler?

It would be quite difficult to do that without effecting the solder joins next to it.

You can buy and Olsson block kit which provides a new heater block for the nozzles to screw into and some nozzles of different sizes. I would also advise to replace the temp sensor at the same time as it is usually stuck in the old heater block. Alternatively you can buy the UM2+ upgrade kit. I would contact you're Ultimaker re-seller to see if they have them or you can get the from 3dsolex or one of their re-sellers.

The type of connection is on the fan file on github. You can order the parts on the line.

Nice

Also doesn't work in safari, you also need a magnifying glass to read the text as the text in the text box is so tiny.