Labern

I will try to point out an example when I see one. When I check the bell and click on a unread link, it takes me to the top of the page where the new post is and their is no blue line saying unread posts With the new posts underneath. So I have to note how many new replies when I look at the bell drop down menu to know how many new posts I need to look for at the bottom of the page.

yep that is probably the easiest option.

Looks like you need a new temp sensor. It may work if you push it back in but this is not advisable and may cause you hot end to overheat.

Yes you can unclip the x / y axis rods from the black holders that connect the axis rod to the belts, just rotate them till the unclip. Then the whole head comes off. You can slide the rods out and hold the head in your hand. You can the go in the menu and select move material and rotate the dial to extrude filament.

Yes TPU will be fine to print with

I would also recommend changing the PTFE coupler to a TFM or TFT coupler

The new filaments will have difficulties on the 2go due to the lack of heated bed. You can get the heated bed kit from 3dsolex or one of their reseller's which will make printing with these materials more successful.

Yes it's well worth it to get the plus. All the changes made address a lot of the annoyances that the standard UM2's had. Making the print quality, reliability and use much better. You can make some of the changes to the extended to make it more like the plus but starting out I think you would be better off just getting the plus version.

Just looks like a failed print. If you do the level bed procedure but make it so the bed has a big gap between it and the nozzle then load in a large print and turn retraction off you will end up with something like that. Maybe you could also increase the flow and have a large layer height to stop it from correcting itself.

I have Successfully printed my first parts with my UM2go+ Feeder and it worked really well. None of that tick tick tick you get when printing fast like the old feeder, I was printing with a 0.8mm Nozzle at 50mm/s and 0.25 layer height.

Try disconnecting the Bowden tube and putting a drop of oil in it. its doesn't need much. You can also print different feeders like IRobertI feeder which has an insert for flexible materials to help stop filaments jamming in the feeder.

Ah I only just noticed its not verticle. Its not infill its top/Bottom layers You would have to use something like the swap at z plugin where you set the model to have top/bottom layers on, then use swap at z to turn it off after the bottom layers has finished, then use it again to turn it back on for the top layers. Or use a g code modifier.

Warm it up so it's soft only around the block. So about 90deg and unscrew the fan shroud and try to remove the plastic. You may need to heat it more by it tends to come off more cleanly at lower temps.

Yes. You will not be able to adjust it if the indicator is broken as it will just rotate inside and not screw down.

I'm still finding posts on topics that I'm following but not being notified.

Awesome. This is really nice, simple, easy to understand, just brilliant. Do a deal with Ultimaker because this UI should definitely be adapted by them.

This could be due to the wall thickness, try xv changing you line thickness or nozzle size in Cura and see if that has any effect in layer view.

The power cord is really tight going in to the printer. You have to push it really hard till it clicks.

Yes I have printed with them a lot. They are not the most easy to print with but the end result is very nice. As to strength, the are stiffer and more stable but not necessarily stronger and can actually be weaker. You need to use a wear resistant nozzle like hardened steel. I recommend that you read This topic as it has a lot of information that will be of help.

I ended up have a bit of a headache after the upgrade. All my prints were under extruding and I couldn't get it right, didn't matter what temp, speed I was running at. I had noticed that during the material change procedure the filament wouldn't travel all the way to the end of the bowden, either removing or installing during the rapid move part. Through some advice I was told to check the E-Steps. This led me to find the If you Install the Tinkerware after the upgrade the e-steps dont change to the correct value. Mine were on 282 and this needed to be on 369. with this changed its now printing great.

So the Original UM2 Fan shroud had 0.6m/s air flow the new one has 2.2m/s air flow mine has 2.5m/s air flow So percentage wise there is not much difference between mine and the new one. Mine is directed more where it needs to be and more even though. I still like and use the metal fan shroud as you can print at 300deg all day every day and not worry about it. It also helps me sleep at night Although cooling is important and can greatly help print performance, I think there are a lot more areas that can have a greater improvement on overall print quality.

It's not skirt but called draft shield. You need to be using Cura 2.* And may have to activate menu option in advanced.

The zig zags that you are talking about are top/bottom layers. As the side wall is on an angle it lays a small section of a top or bottom layer in the area covering the amount of angle. (Don't think I explained that well)

No it's a feature in Cura. It is a skirt that prints to a certain height. Not sure where it's located in the menu as I'm not home right now.

As the nozzle is off to one side the RHS fan blows on the glass more then it does on the LHS. You could set a draft shield close to the print and up 5 - 10mm I have found it helped on prints that tended to warp.