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Labern

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Everything posted by Labern

  1. If you are hearing a sound coming from the spool then the filament could be catching and this can also cause under extrusion.
  2. All version of cura should have both UM2 and UM2+ firmware. You can manually select the one you want to install by selecting install custom firmware. In the (cura version)/resources/firmware folder you can find UM2 and UM2+ firmware But you should have a look at Tinkerware. Its a great addition to your UM2 and you can even change the direction of the feeder in the menu. you can find it Here
  3. This is an Ultimaker forum so you may not get your answer here. But check your nozzle is clean. Maybe carry out an atomic pull. Check filament passes through the bowden tube and nozzle properly. You can heat the nozzle, open the feeder and push filament through by hand and it should push through without too much force. other then that have a look for a CR10 forum which may offer better advice.
  4. I would turn off retract before outer wall. It probably oozed a bit during travel moves and then underextruded on the pillars. For something like this, you are a lot better off not printing it as one piece. Not only would you have a heap of print time and PVA but you could get a lot better quality pillars. If you designed this yourself then you can make the pillars slot into place and add a dab of glue.
  5. Don't know much about your printer. But you may need to check to see if the filament is grinding or slipping in the feeder. or if you hear knocking sounds coming from your feeder.
  6. Maybe the material diameter is set to 2.85mm. I have seen that some people have had issues with cura defaulting to 2.85mm.
  7. Yeah, I also find nGen quite brittle using the 0.25 nozzle. I would probably increase the temp a bit, Turn off Z-Hop and avoid printed parts when travelling to reduce travel times and keep heat on the part. nGen doesn't really have the best bond to itself which means that the strength between each wall and layer is not hugely strong. Using a 0.25mm nozzle means you have even less strength cos the print lines are so small. Keeping the part as warm as possible without affecting your print quality is the best solution. So maybe up the temp and play with retraction, travels and combing to re
  8. If layer view looks ok then you probably have under extrusion or a problem with your z-axis. If its the same height in every print then it will be Z-Axis. but if you get it randomly then is probably under extrusion. A closer look at the missing layers would help determine your issue and sharing what printer you have and material used, settings like nozzle size, speed, temp and layer height will also help.
  9. Could a Z-hop be added on the first layer to the first extrusion point for both extruders and travels to the material change position? This would eliminate any risk of scratching in the larger movement area.
  10. To me, the 10cm up is nice as I won't have to manually move the material. change the core then guess how far to manually push the material back into the core. I did find some materials did require heating the core like TPU and PP as they would have a string stuck that wasn't easy to break by pulling. You could put a mark on the bowden tube to where you need to manually feed the material to as it will now be a visible location. would be a nice feature for UM to add this mark and notify people that if the need to manually move material for any reason to move it up to the mark to p
  11. I think you will have issues with bed levelling. The original idea was to have a button on the screen that you select to tell it the alloy plate is installed so it could count for that. But not too sure. Also you may have some issues trying to machine such a large area and get the correct flatness as it will tend to try and warp on you. The tolerance on stock MIC6 is 0.125mm which is not so ideal. But yes. Do try. You might get what you're wanting.
  12. Are you using Ultimaker Nylon? What form of adhesion are you using for nylon?
  13. I use adhesion sheets on mine and its no issue. Maybe you have a sensor issue and should contact your reseller. The reason it probes with a hot nozzle is in case there is a bit of losing that has gone hard and sticks out, it will level your bed at the wrong height. The hot nozzle should melt through your adhesion sheet but if its pressing though it then the sensor in the print head isnt detecting the change in values. Are you running the latest firmware.
  14. I more wanted it for the security of knowing that this setting won't change doesn't matter what I do as currently I don't have any trust in this and have lost these setting changes a few times. But you are right, Being able to select which values to keep/discard would be a good alternative.
  15. Yeah, but I would like to keep those values locked in place so you can make temporary changes that when you are asked to keep or discard changes, Ones that are locked will always be kept but unlocked ones can be discarded and set back to default. I have some settings that I never change and would like to be set a certain way whether it's a custom profile or default. So having it locked would be nice. but then sometimes I might make a few small changes depending on the model that can be discarded once that print is done.
  16. Nylon Actually prints very well on the S5 and a lot better than ABS. Are you saying that when it's doing the bed probing it going through the adhesion sheets and making a hole?
  17. I would be nice to have a setting lock in cura. Where in custom settings if you change a value a small padlock comes up next to that block in which you could lock that setting. This will remain there regardless of core, printer or material change etc. A small popup could come up saying that you have locked settings as a warning when you do change printers or cores but you can ignore it if you wish. This could allow some people to keep a setting which they prefer to be altered at all times to remain in place regardless if its a default profile or custom one. A simple click of that padlock would
  18. You might want to have a look at THIS thread and THIS one. @gr5 has done a lot of work testing different materials and has built a machine for testing them. But you may gain some ideas on how to do your tests. Keep in mind that changing print temps and layer heights can affect your results. This is a bit off topic but You might also want to look at other aspects of the prints other than just strength. Most of the time these reinforced materials are used for there mechanical properties. This normally means some sort of tolerance is also involved. So measuring see the d
  19. Wow that's different. good to see another use for 3D printing. I do professional fireworks displays and I was approached by a company once who wanted to put peoples ashes into fireworks so they could go out with a bang so to speak.
  20. Hey Welcome. Nice, I like the big hammer. Its always good to have a feel for how strong your prints really are.
  21. DId the nylon print come unstuck from the bed or did the part just have bad layer adhesion and break apart? Ultimaker Nylon normally has a really strong layer adhesion on default profiles without any temp changes or enclosing the printer. I do use the front door though just to keep drafts out. The only time I have had bad layer adhesion is when the nylon has absorbed too much moisture and requires drying. You can hear small crackles and pops when it's printing and the print is very milky (if natural Nylon). You need to be very careful with the heat gun as some heat guns can heat up too ho
  22. You can just use a 0.4 BB core or 0.8 BB core along with the 0.6 CC Red core without any issues.
  23. You can change the support Z distance. Increasing this will make the gap bigger between the support and the ABS. You can also reduce the interface density so not as much breakaway is in contact with the ABS. Just note that changing these too much will reduce the appearance of your bottom surface. I use some small electronics cutters to lift the thin strands off the prints. Are the support areas your trying to remove flat areas or quite complex shapes?
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