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Everything posted by Labern

  1. You can just use a 0.4 BB core or 0.8 BB core along with the 0.6 CC Red core without any issues.
  2. You can change the support Z distance. Increasing this will make the gap bigger between the support and the ABS. You can also reduce the interface density so not as much breakaway is in contact with the ABS. Just note that changing these too much will reduce the appearance of your bottom surface. I use some small electronics cutters to lift the thin strands off the prints. Are the support areas your trying to remove flat areas or quite complex shapes?
  3. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gopro-spear-mount
  4. Hmm that's strange. I can see the files when I log in. Can someone else try and see if they have issues?
  5. I'm not able to select materials for some reason. It's not the first CURA version to have this issue though. It seems to be an issue with the expandable setting menu but I am able to activate the materials via the materials manager menu. using Windows 10
  6. Your post seems to be about a CURA issue rather then what you want in a UM4
  7. @kmanstudios was your last post supposed to be here?
  8. Its pretty expensive filament but you are getting some very nice results. Cant believe how nice it prints. Defiantly something I would like to work towards printing some day. How strong is the layer adhesion?
  9. I think they would only go to 1.75 filament if they start using direct extruders rather then bowden. If that can be done with a nice light weight system then yes. that would be a nice upgrade.
  10. yes I would expect the UM3+ to come before the UM4 but i don't think the changes would be huge. Maybe just address the bulk of the common issues same as the UM2+ upgrade along with some small improvements. So its a bit more fun to speculate what the UM4 could be like.
  11. NinjaTek Cheetah prints very well on UM2. I just used their recommended settings and it worked great. NinjaTek actually used UM printers to test the material.
  12. Depending on the type of fit you want. Designing something the exact same size shaft and hole will always be a transition fit which would require some heating, cooling or tooling to make them fit together. So it is normal to add some clearance to your designs but you will need to increase the amount of clearance to suit 3D printing. As suggested make a profile that you use for all prints that require a certain fit. the print some samples and measure them.
  13. Check your travel settings. you may have "avoid printed parts while traveling" turned on. Its set to a quite large distance by default and can increase travel distances dramatically causing a lot more oozing. Turning this off may help. Also turning off z hop. and reducing the temp like others said by about 10deg. You may need to reduce the infill speed a lot if you reduce the temp as it will under-extrude like crazy. Was this a dual extrusion print that you are just printing with one extruder?
  14. No Harm in asking. If you cant find the solution after a bit of playing around I'm sure someone can help out.
  15. it was a AS5048B chip magnetic rotary encoder
  16. I am sure that the sensor that was going to be used was more like an encoder which is a bit more smart then a limit switch. Would measure filament length maybe and provide other useful information then just run out.
  17. Have a look HERE All 3D files are available and you can get the dimensions you require.
  18. Yes I would think you would need to but a simple test would show if it will work or not.
  19. I have Octoprint set up on my Um2+ and it works fine. before you sent it to the octoprint from CURA can you see the hand supports in layer-view. It doesn't look like its trying to print them.
  20. I like the little notification pop up on mobile that tells you there is a new post in the topic your reading.
  21. @gr5 sells the TL-Smoothers in his webshop. If you asked him nicely he could make sure all the cables are wired up correctly so all you need to do is plug them in which is very simple. But agree this should have been fixed by now.
  22. The 1mm away step is not critical. It's just a visual check on all 3 corners to make sure on the next step the nozzle won't hit the glass of the leveling is way off. I think there is a video somewhere. Maybe in the phone App or on website somewhere? But you can quickly adjust it as it's printing the skirt by watching the printed line and adjusting the screws instill you can see it's printing right. @Gr5 has a guide on how to do this.
  23. You can't change the stepper driver on UM2. Only the old UM0.
  24. Option of a bigger build volume. New silent step control board with more smarts. Closed-loop stepper-motor control with step-loss compensation. Light weight direct drive. 5 extruders, system like the mark 2 with ability to have other attachments other then filament extruders. Enclosed with temp control. Smart filament sensor that can compensate drive slippage, detect run out etc. Failed print camera detection also to detect if head is out of position if a pulley has slipped. Failed print recovery. Auto part removal for production runs. Stiffer bed on ball screws. Light we
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