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Labern

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Posts posted by Labern

  1. DId the nylon print come unstuck from the bed or did the part just have bad layer adhesion and break apart? Ultimaker Nylon normally has a really strong layer adhesion on default profiles without any temp changes or enclosing the printer. I do use the front door though just to keep drafts out. The only time I have had bad layer adhesion is when the nylon has absorbed too much moisture and requires drying. You can hear small crackles and pops when it's printing and the print is very milky (if natural Nylon).

    You need to be very careful with the heat gun as some heat guns can heat up too hot and damage the printer parts. 

    I would contact your reseller as you may be able to get a replacement core for free if its a UM one and damaged due to the flooded head. It would be good for them to know for reporting frequencies of this problem occurring and if you require replacement parts they may be covered.

    Not sure of if there is a head assembly manual but there is a bit of a front door guide Here

  2. On 11/7/2018 at 3:02 AM, Brulti said:

    @SandervG Will Ultimaker release a 0.6 BB core to allow the use of PVA as support in conjunction with the Ruby core? There are many PLA-based abrasive materials that could benefit from that.

     

    You can just use a 0.4 BB core or 0.8 BB core along with the 0.6 CC Red core without any issues. 

    • Thanks 1
  3. You can change the support Z distance. Increasing this will make the gap bigger between the support and the ABS. You can also reduce the interface density so not as much breakaway is in contact with the ABS.

    Just note that changing these too much will reduce the appearance of your bottom surface.

    I use some small electronics cutters to lift the thin strands off the prints.

    Are the support areas your trying to remove flat areas or quite complex shapes?

  4. Depending on the type of fit you want. Designing something the exact same size shaft and hole will always be a transition fit which would require some heating, cooling or tooling to make them fit together. So it is normal to add some clearance to your designs but you will need to increase the amount of clearance to suit 3D printing. As suggested make a profile that you use for all prints that require a certain fit. the print some samples and measure them.

  5. Check your travel settings. you may have "avoid printed parts while traveling" turned on. Its set to a quite large distance by default and can increase travel distances dramatically causing a lot more oozing. Turning this off may help. Also turning off z hop. and reducing the temp like others said by about 10deg. You may need to reduce the infill speed a lot if you reduce the temp as it will under-extrude like crazy. 

    Was this a dual extrusion print that you are just printing with one extruder? 

  6. It all sounds too complex for me I think. Ive even ditched the Olson block and gone back to OEM. So ill just stick to what I know for now I think cheers for all the information. I am still interested but only when i get a new printer will I risk bricking this one! And it really should have been integrated by now!!! this stepper issue has been known for a long time!

    @gr5 sells the TL-Smoothers in his webshop. If you asked him nicely he could make sure all the cables are wired up correctly so all you need to do is plug them in which is very simple.

    But agree this should have been fixed by now.

  7. The 1mm away step is not critical. It's just a visual check on all 3 corners to make sure on the next step the nozzle won't hit the glass of the leveling is way off.

    I think there is a video somewhere. Maybe in the phone App or on website somewhere?

    But you can quickly adjust it as it's printing the skirt by watching the printed line and adjusting the screws instill you can see it's printing right. @Gr5 has a guide on how to do this.

  8. Option of a bigger build volume.

    New silent step control board with more smarts.

    Closed-loop stepper-motor control with step-loss compensation.

    Light weight direct drive.

    5 extruders, system like the mark 2 with ability to have other attachments other then filament extruders.

    Enclosed with temp control.

    Smart filament sensor that can compensate drive slippage, detect run out etc.

    Failed print camera detection also to detect if head is out of position if a pulley has slipped.

    Failed print recovery.

    Auto part removal for production runs.

    Stiffer bed on ball screws.

    Light weight stiff gantry.

    Touch screen with a ton of options for adjusting on the fly or customising printer setup manually. (Options were less on um3 compared to um2 where it should have been more like tinkerware.)

    Nozzle tip cleaner on material change With ability to set tip clean intervals for single extruder prints.

    Hot swap spool changer for filament run out.

    Phone notifications on printer status.

    Probably missed a few things because I just woke up.

    And make all this cheap enough so i can afford a print wall :D.

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