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3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
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If you haven't seen it then I would suggest having a look at THIS guide to help trouble shoot your issues.
If you have an Olsson Ruby nozzle then XT-CF20 is easy to print with. ABS is not really suited to 3D printing but by all means use what you've got.
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That's normally when the bed temp is to high.
What are you using on the glass to help the AND stick?
Also is there a specific reason you are using ABS? It's not the easiest beginner material to use. It's also not as strong as PLA or other materials plus layer adhesion is not that great. So unless you really need ABS I would suggest starting off with PLA first.
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What version of CURA are you using? There have been many changes in loading times over different versions.
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I heard a rumor it's really good at toasting bread and you can schedule it to be ready for breakfast in the morning.
The cores can spread whatever topping you want.
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For UM2 I use tinkergnomes firmware which has a preheat feature which I start as soon as I turn the printer on.
For UM3 I select preheat as soon as I load Cura.
I know this isn't the biggest help but it does reduce the time a bit.
Having the front door does help with stopping cold air slowing it down so it's only really the available accessory from UM or you could find a full enclosure kit.
Some people put towels on the heat bed which helps but only when preheating or it may crash.
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It would be a cool addition to the UM3 app to be able to read the tags. I have unmarked spools so can't confirm what the material unless I load it into the printer.
But I would also like to write my own rags somehow.
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Is the tinkergnome "filament_sensor" the same or similar to the marlin "filament runout sensor"? I just got a Filament Sentinel and I'm trying to figure out how to update our firmware to add it in(I am not a code guy and so far it's all been a little out of my comfort zone). I noticed there is a "FILAMENT_SENSOR_PIN -1" in the pins.h and "FILAMENT_SENSOR_PIN=30" in the package.sh (which I cannot for the life of me figure out how to make work).
So i'm just wondering if the filament sensor is already set up and If I can just plug the signal pin into PC7 and have it work without having to load new firmware?
You can read all about it here
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The print thin walls seems to do them as a separate feature compared to a standard wall. Which means if a wall progressively gets smaller it will print all walls down to the nozzle size then print the thin walls as a separate pass. This creates a lot of imperfections in the print. To get the best quality results it needs to progressively print all walls thin or not in one pass so it's not broken up into different moves.
Will this be something that's possible to achieve later on or is it limited by how the programming works?
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In CURA 2.7 It seems you can set support infill layer thickness to double the layer thickness which will help a bit.
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I have a 3D solex core for smaller nozzles but haven't found it to be the best.
I wouldn't slow down the travel. Keep it nice and fast but you might want to slow the print speed and lower the temp.
I know you can have infill set to double the wall layer height using 2 extruders but not sure if it works on support. I don't have access to check at the moment.
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You can print at 0.02 but in my experiments you get better results at 0.04mm
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when you say deep do you mean low? like 0.02mm?
PLA is by far the easiest to get small details as you can get it really cold but still retain the layer adhesion. also doesn't ooze very much.
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What settings did you try? and are you using the UM 0.4mm core?
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Yes, it is safe. People print with the bed temp over 100deg all the time for materials like PC.
I have printed a lot with UM Nylon and the default bed temp.
What issues are you having with your print?
Pictures?
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Please.
Make something with "Center camera when item is selected"
Very very important for me and maybe for others too.
Before i start a 2 day print, is mandatory to preview the model.
You can. Under settings there a tick box to enable this along with other viewing options
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You want to make the time smaller not larger as it will end up like your photo. Try 5 seconds.
You may find it's one of the linear bearings for your z axis that binds at certain heights. If you unscrew them then slide them up and down the shaft you may feel tight spots.
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That's great. Just make sure you keep the filament in a sealed container with some desicant to keep it dry.
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As the model is getting smaller the higher it gets it might be effected by the minimum layer time then over heating. What is this time currently set at?
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Nylon comes in transparent and black.
It is effected by moisture and does swell a bit.
This could also be polycarbonate which has a bit of flex. Tolerant to impacts and not effected by moisture the same but also comes in transparent and black.
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So is this what the print in your first post is meant to look like?
Did you put the tension of the feeder back after drying it?
And did you also revert all the CURA changes back to default after drying?
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It looks like your wall thickness is so wide that there is no infill. Reduce your wall thickness to 3 lines
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Your images seem to invalid. Try loading them into you gallery first so you can preview them and make sure they loaded properly.
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Just as an aside, I am using the quick infill to give me a bit of an 'ice' look inside my transparent objects in certain cases. Actually has a nice, crusty, frosty look.
Other times, I have just slowed down the infill to get a cleaner output when visible by design.
Yes this is easy done but you still can't get away from Cura's travel problems unless you turn combing off and have it z hop on retract which isn't the nicest for every case.
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I wasn't suggesting they add a tick box for clean infill. Just indicating that I would prefer having sturdy infill with no oozing over print speed 90% of the time.
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Ultimaker 4, The next generation of 3d printer
in Coffee corner
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But could you afford it