Labern

Have a look at THIS Moldlay which is designed this sort of thing. haven't tried it myself. I have seen others make stuff buy melting out PLA but I would suggest giving Moldlay a try.

At least this part should be pretty easy - it will need a tiny bit of reconfiguration and a recompile, but i'm sure you can do it! (Or send me PM if you need help with this...) Thanks, I have ordered the parts and give it a try so I may ask you in the near future to point me in the right direction..

Read THIS Some parts you can probably get away with. But holes maybe not round, wrong size or in the wrong place. If it has to be straight then it probably isn't.

Okay I'll look into...whatever that is... We actually use Ethyl Vinyl Acetate for our foam products...random fact....I need more coffee. I'm on 15 hours here.... It's pretty much nail polish remover. You can buy it bulk if you find it works rather than tiny bottles

Also ethyl Acetate. I use it sometimes on a cloth to wipe some parts smooth. Haven't tried dipping it though.

Look at the text in layer view. if the width of the text is smaller then your nozzle width it won't print that part. You can actually set the nozzle width a little bit smaller than the actual size but the most ideal is to buy the Olsson Block from 3dsolex. Then you can even go down to a 0.15mm nozzle. XT would be hard to get right. It has Stringing issues and layer adhesion issues which both will make it hard to get nice clean text that won't peel off.

If the retract speed is to high it can lead to chewing through. You could adjust the minimum travel before retract to help reduce them a bit. Check the spring tension isn't to loose.

Looks like a z scar move even though it's on spiralize.

I tend to hold a sharp knife at 90degrees to the part and scrape the edge. this way you don't cut into the model.

I had done a few small prints on my UM2go with CPE and it worked ok till i printed one with a bigger base. So I found a $15 silicon heat pad that's 24v 10w and the perfect size. So my question is, If i plug this in with a flat PT100 on it, will this work or kill my UM2go? Some concerns I have are is the power supply big enough to handle another 10w? am i able to tell the firmware that a heat pad is present? Or will the main board just release its smoke?

i got a uno glue stick and it doesn't work. there are a few sujestions HERE

Thats good you have found the problem. @mnis has designed covers that either use passive cooling or can hold fans. they can be found Here You maybe able to adapt them for the extended or ask mnis nicely to add a model for you.

The only time i have had to wait was when it had to do extensive stitching. That was annoying but was due to a bad model. Which i fixed then I didn't need to wait.

Ideally you don't want any wobble but the 2 linear bearings not the screw is what keeps it stable. If they have lots of wobble then you have a problem. You maybe able to loosen the motor and tighten it again to try and line it up central. A lot of people don't like how the bed sticks out and some put stiffeners to stop any wobble but that's on the plate not the lead screw.

Yes they don't come cheap. I hear the guys at UM love cookies. That may help persuade SandervG.

Hmmm that is interesting. Would be cool to see how well the parts print with that.

I have printed a colt 1911. Every part except the springs. Need to modify the model as the original tolerances are to tight for printing. @LePaul so you haven't taken the plunge to get the extended yet? That barrel sounds like a good excuse.

IPM doesn't like XT so I guess CPE would be the same. I2k washer works good though.

Have you looked at it in x-ray mode to see if there are issues with the stl?

That's great. The misalignment was going to be my next guess so glad you found it.

That problem could easily be avoided by simply bringing up a dialog box (which you can choose to disable if you want from the menu so that dialog doesnt get irritating itself) that says do you want to perform a final slice? (yes/no) before you print or something like that, as soon as you press the print button. Which would make the most sense to me. The auto slice is annoying, whatever the benefits. Its a time waster, like it or not, and lets face it no-one like wasting time, period. I don't see how its a time waster. I only wait for it once i have finished changing all my settings, But you would still have to wait it you manually pressed it anyway.

I think UM had good points why it wasn't implemented, most of the people who didn't like it was because there were bugs in their system. If the slice button was implemented then these bugs wouldn't be found. Also you can still keep changing stuff even if had started slicing as it would just start over. Its not like you have to wait every time. I can just picture people getting the button then getting pissed of because they forgot to press it and printed with a previous slice that didn't contain all the new settings.

Well, i print with thickness equal 0.02, and its work fine. If Ollson block is installed with 0.15 mm nozzle, i think, 0.01 is absolutely possible. Ok... So I am not to tell you what you must/can and must not/can't do... I'm also not trying to be a prick, But this is IMO wrong... You were never supposed to print 0.01 layer thickness on ANY FDM printer... I think the official absolute minimum for the UM family is 0.02, and frankly I find it to be just a stupid waste of time... The increase in quality you will get from say 0.06 mm., or even 0.1 mm. layers to the 0.02 mm. (or 0.01, if that is even possible) is so minor, especially when taking the massive extra time into account. That is IF you even manage to calibrate your printer properly to do the 0.01-0.02 in the first place. If you care a lot about making the finished part look not 3d printed at all, a few coats of primer on the 0.1 mm. layers will hide them completely and as a bonus make the print much easier to paint. I hate painting and any post processing so sometimes i print items at 0.04 and they come out super smooth and shiny and look better then 0.06. I agree that it has no benefit on some models but others can come out sweet. I have printed some at 0.02 and found you start to get some blemishes but this is probably just some of my settings. If you are patient enough then I don't see a problem.

yes it was, on both sides even :s Oh, couldn't tell on my phone screen. If you post your print setting then it will help us help you.

Have you tightened all the pulleys? Like this?