Labern

If you load a photo of the failed print it may help people solve your issue. I don't know much about UMO but if you used the heat bed upgrade kit which i gather is similar to UM2's then check through THIS as it may help.

Looks like you have a pulley loose. This is called shifted layers, you can find a guide how to fix it HERE You can navigate to the guide from the Support section on the ultimaker website.

Mesh mixer has a find best orientation setting but it's not gravity related, it's overhang related. You can load your model in that then orientate the model, save then load in CURA. I'm not sure if gravity would be the best way to find the best orientation. Detecting overhangs and selecting the best side to print from I think would be the best. Another consideration can also be strength, where you want the layers a certain way to get maximum strength.

Very cool.

haha that's funny Sorry, I know that doesn't help :(

I can see a few problems. Your speeds vary a LOT, Its best to keep all these the same. There are a few problems when you have them change like that. 1 being that it ends up printing to fast or slow for the nozzle temp. So you may get under extrusion on the infill but over heat the outer shell. 2 being that the x/y reaction time is a lot faster then the filament being fed through the bowden so you can end up with fat area of the line its putting down. (hope that makes sense) It also seams that you item wasn't sitting on the glass. you don't need any support if its lying on its back. so turn this off and make sure the model is sitting on the glass. Your view in cura is standing up. will it print this way or is the bottom curved? if you print it standing up then rotate it 45deg angle as it will print nicer this way. Your layer height is 0.2mm and you top bottom thickness is 0.6mm this means it will only have 4 layers to cover the infill, its best to have this at 6-8 time the layer height. especially if your infill is 10% 20% infill is normal so your could try that. You can also set the bed temp to 60deg.

Add brim is the best method. It's pretty easy to remove afterwards as you just peel it off. It can leave a sharp edge but this can also be easily removed with a sharp knife. Hold the knife at 90degees to the print or even slightly backwards so it doesn't dig in and just scrapes off the edge.

You can live with the crack if you want but It's not that hard to change but you will need to take quite a bit apart. Remove bowden tube cut heat shrink off braided slieve Unplug the fans Remove fan shroud and unscrew nozzle. Then you can replace the cracked part.

Yes this is normally due to over tightening. You can contact support and get a replacement part sent to you.

its not the easiest to print with and would suggest you use Roberts feeder with the snap on guide. you can also put a drop of oil in the bowden tube. These are the settings XYZ workshop recommend to print their dress so could be a good start. Temperature - 230°C Speed- 10-15mm/s Sliced at 0.15mm Retraction - Off Fan- Off Masking tape on top of heated bed

I guess you are using CURA 15.06? this is a BETA so i would suggest you stick with 15.04 as its a lot more stable for now.

Have a look at THIS guide. if you still have problems after going through the steps then report back.

I'm finding that when the fans come on it under extrudes for that layer and every layer the fan speeds up. I print those layers at 200% flow which overcomes that then print the rest at 120% flow.

Some of the new printers come with 3 - 4mm and can sit at 1 mm or the heater block interferes with the fan Shroud.

More than 1mm is fine. As long as it's no less than 1mm.

Yes they do have time lapse function.

This is called under extrusion, have a read and follow through the steps in THIS guide first. If your problem persists, report back.

Depends how you implement the read/unread feature. If its just an indicator, some could be weeks or months old, then you would have to many to go through. If you don't make a post then last active posts doesn't help. Its not important, I would have used it a few times so was just asking.

In the next forum release, will there be a section where we can see our recently viewed posts? So if we have viewed a post recently and want to quickly find it again its easy to find?

The speed can be increased but the maximum you can increase it by depends on what settings were selected in cura. If you use basic mode and select maximum setting then this doesn't actually help use give you a good answer. these basic settings are always changing with every software release. Normally if you increase the speed by a large amount while printing, you also need to increase the temp a bit. what IRobertI is saying is if you multiply your nozzle size (standard 0.4mm) times the print speed (shown under advanced mode) times the layer height (also under advanced mode) then this will tell you how much plastic you can put down per second. the maximum is normally around 10mm3/s. you can test this using this test if using UM2, there are others for other printers.( Please add your printer to your profile to help use sovle your issues.) Never look at the time remaining in the printer when its printing unless you are printing a cube. Its is not an accurate form of estimating the lime remaining. Always use the time show in CURA as it is a more accurate estimate.

I have also made a spring replacement for use with Olsson Block and I2K insulator. Have made it so the block sits quite high so you loose minimal print height. found Here

Gopro and edit with gopro studio. I have one mount base stuck to the printer and there are heaps of other mounts you can print. Has wide angle so can be close to the printer without a big mount sticking out.

Make sure there is a gap of about 1mm between the white PTFE coupler and the metal insulator. as shown here