Labern

Has the typing on mobiles been reported yet? It drives me nuts. You have to type sooooo slooow or all the text gets messed up. I think its the predictive text that confuses the forum text box.

You have to tag me with my full name, or else I don't get a notification about it.. Anyway, as far as I know we are not related. Noted - Haha just realized i was tagging some other random person I have always been interested in making my own filament. I want to try some of the plastics we have at work and PET bottles. The 3devo looked like the best package but far 2 expensive. you at least need to make 50 rolls to get your money back. that's not including you time to learn another new system. It would be good to see more good recycled filaments being sold.

Ok Maybe its not Vespel. but some other vague material.

It took me a while to change how i designed to suit 3D printing better and I'm still learning. Depending on your models, sometimes i can be best to chop it into parts to eliminate overhangs etc. You will see a lot of people here who print figurines im multiple parts then glue them together. Valcrow's Lightsaber is one example. There are 2 models, one prints in one piece but the quality is low, the the other in 14 pieces. which gives really good quality.

I think its vespel. There is a topic on it when they were trialing different materials to find the best option. I use it. Its good and I haven't found any problem with it so far. The DUPTEF COUPLERS are a lot more slippery then the glass fiber filled ones but are more prone to deforming. that's where you will want the I2K. On my setup I use both and are very good. the only problem is there is more spring tension on it as it all sits higher. Anders checked this and apparently the amount of increased tension is not much higher. (cant remember the weight). I really recommend the using the DUPTEF COUPLERS. I have no experience with the STEEL COUPLER V2.

Didn't know where that was....thank you! Is there a way to make it play, by default with them? Mine played with them without selecting it, so maybe in your account settings.

That's great There is also an angle test Here that can help find the maximum angle you can print at. If you print it at different angles like your test will help show the best way to orientate your designs. But you need to do this one at a time as printing more then one adds heaps more cooling time. You also now need to focus on getting rid of that Stringing.

@Sander Have you guys had any involvement with 3devo ? They are in your neck of the woods and are using UM2's in their advertisements.

He cant have printed it on an Ultimaker. Some of the printed parts are pretty poor. Awesome project though.

You might find This quite a good read if you haven't read it already.

If you are on a stock UM2, this will depend on which way the angle is facing as one side cools better then the other. Also layer height can have an effect on the outcome. Typically 45deg angles turn out pretty good. but you can get away will quite a bit more.

When my UM2go is changing material its off to one side like in you printer. When you printed the 110mm rectangle how far off was it?

PET is meant to have 0.1% water absorption over 24hours. But this will depend on what other additives they put in to make it more printable.

XT also absorbs heaps of water. I had one roll that was so bad the bowden tube steamed up and had water droplets in it.and this was a 2 day old roll. The water makes it expand even more and it underextrudes, decreases layer adhesion and prints real bad.

I was having the exact same stringing problem with one of our Ultimaker 2s. It turned out to be a bad temperature sensor. After replacing it (which is a bit of a pain) the stringing went away. Seems like there has been a bad batch of temp sensors, I had one and seen a few others on here 2. UM also told me that the new filament requires lower temp. 190 to 200 deg.

That's great.

I have similar issues. Normally print with no retraction and fast moves. I find its easy to clean up with a sharp knife.

It can take a week or 2 some times. You can PM @sander as he may be able to give you a quicker answer.

Yes the feeder shouldn't skip back unless there is to much pressure built up in the nozzle or a snag of the filament. Sometimes the printers need some adjusting even from new. They just print a test sample and ship it off. as long as you have good impression like shown Here Is the design your own or Someone else's. You can check in with cura 15.04 under xray view to see if there are problems in the model. I'm not to familiar with the material you are using. It could be good to try the UM stuff, even if it for something else. Different brands can print very differently, even different colors. How much of the ABS have you used? Have you done atomic pulls? You can try loosing off the 4 thumb screws on top of the head a bit. not so its loose but just holding. A lot of people just put the roll on the floor on its side and let it uncoil on its own.

If we can't print one smaller then @MartijnvG then im going to blame him for not developing a good enough printer.

I have a month right? (hoping a form 2 comes out by then:D ) I will give it a try soon. Ill have to find my micrometer and magnifying glass first

@MartijnvG Keep posting photos of your prints, but try and make the background less fuzzy and stand next to your latest projects

Side panels are not listed there.

Yes Similar in strength. I don't think the warping is as bad as ABS.

XT is not as easy to print as PLA. It's more prone to Stringing and layer adhesions issues. Can have some warping but not to bad It similar properties as ABS but no smell, it's also meant to be food safe and recyclable. there are many debates about what is hazardous to health and environmentally friendly with all filaments.