Labern

Yeah I did. But not on purpose

THE WORLDS SMALLEST 3D PRINTED CORDLESS DRILL Well I'm sure if its the smallest but its still tiny and it actually works Anyone Got a blocked nozzle :-P All it cost me to make is a tiny bit of filament and a hearing aid battery

I printed this tiny thing today, not 100% finished. still need to print the chuck. :-P

link to the discussion about the Olsson block is found here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=71735 Link where you can buy it from here: http://3dsolex.com/

Mini Ultibot scaled down 0.625 Printed with 0.25mm Nozzle and 0.04 Layers

you may want to load pictures so people can fully understand your explanations

I haven't looked into the side ones. The stainless steel duct does make them louder. You can print others but I find they deform over time. I wonder if you welded it up if it would make it more ridged and make them slightly quieter. Probably won't make to much difference.

the Quiet fan can also be found here http://www.ebay.com/itm/111400412083

Replace your rear fan with this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/111400412083 Noisy fan problem solved. its so quiet you don't even know if its on. I de-soldered the wires off my old fan and put them on the new one so i can still use the plug but you could use crimp connectors or something if you don't have a soldering iron.

I have seen that you have mentioned this before and SandervG has also said that they would do this for your first one that has worn out. So I created a support ticket. After a few weeks of back and forth emails (takes days to get a reply) and sending photos and serial numbers etc.. they came back saying it comes under normal wear so I need to go to the store and Order a new one. So no luck there.

if you loosen the 4 thumb screws the push the bowden tube down and re tighten the screws again, the slight pressure from the bowden should hold it in place.

OK thanks I machined up a spare at work. FREEBIE You had mentioned a modified one to suit the I2K so was just wanting that to have a good match. Ill wait to see what you come up with then and give one a try when its ready. thanks

Hi Swordriff I have noticed you now have the I2K insulators in the store. In the passed you have mentioned that they will come with a teflon piece as well as the I2K washer. Is this still the case as its not mentioned on the website? Mine has deformed so i need a new one.

I pre-ordered one. Just for those little parts that I need. Also so I can take to to work so I can print some things there or when I go to people's places. Means I can draw and print while I'm there and don't need to wait till I get home to print it. Then go back to drop it off. I also got a spare 3dsolex heater block for it for .8 speedy prints. I find 75% of the things I print are within the build volume.

Print this one if you can https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two Its the most widely used and is very good. It also make it faster to change materials and easier to clean the knurled knob. If you are unable to print it, then I'm sure someone near you could. Not good that you are having these issues but as hal-9000 said. once you are passed them im sure you will love it. I had a few issues to start with but I stuck with it and I'm really glad i did.

I have been running the E3D stainless steel nozzles and printing with XT-CF20 for about 2 weeks on my UM2. the nozzles are great but im not sure about fitting them to UM0. I find you have to set the temp a little higher then the brass nozzles and slow down the rate the fans come on otherwise I get under extrusion. but you might get different results on the UM0 setup.

sure could be super awesome.

They do have STL. I find it very good so far and easy to use. Similar to when I started using Solidworks many years ago. With Some nice added features that make things a bit simpler and easier.

On the github drawings it says: ptfe isolator coupler - white teflon bit Hot end isolator - steel round nut. so got my terms from there. But yours do sound better.

I found that having the standard 1mm gap from the Stainless isolator to the PTFE coupler top bit. the new 3dSolex "The Olsson Block" hits the Ultimaker Fan shroud. I would have to increase the gap to about 3mm to get any clearance. Has anyone else experienced the same. ( not at home so cant post photo )

0.05 is very small and may go unnoticed. Try putting it on 0.5mm or even 1mm as a trial on a small print so you can see if it's actually working.

i just ordered some from E3D with some nozzles and shipping was pretty cheap in comparison to other places Haven't used the other companies that you have listed though.

only image i have is here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-snap-on-guide-with-oiler I have tried heaps of things to get the quality good but I thing unless you have direct drive or flex drive I don't think it will ever be that great.. I have had some reasonable prints and will try again with my new nozzle soon.

If you are changing just the heater block you don't need to undo the whole cold end part.

He must like his printer A LOT to have that on his mind. :grin: