Labern

I want retracts on for bottom and top surface for the perimeters, and combing on during the rest of the print so the side walls don't get defects. No, I don't want Z hop on during the entire print. Only while printing the top and bottom surface.

I understand what you are saying about what the skin is. But I guess the goal is to print something with the least amount of defects as possible. But at the same time not have to many unnecessary actions that take up to much time. so if you are only implement a feature that fixes the "flat part in the middle" to increase the appearance of the final print , but then the appearance is reduced by oozing on multiple perimeters. then you have only fixed some cases when all can be fixed if it retracts on perimeters also. Well it will scratch unless you have Z hop turned on. and this is why Z hop on skin would be good. So you don't get defects in the outer walls. Travel speed is already set to 250mm/s

It would be nice to see it as a challenge If I had the time. Not all jobs allow you to work on such things

If this can be fixed. Z hop on skin would also be a good feature.

I have tried both suggestion and put the minimum distance on 0mm and tried Z hop on 0.5mm. neither of these helped as it still didn't retract. hope this picture helps you understand more what on trying to explain.

Well put my name down if you ever do.

Just tried out RC11 and the No Skin combing feature. The Item Im printing has a few holes in it. I have noticed that it lays down the external perimeter of the print then travels to the holes with no retraction. then when its filling in the area it will retract. Because of this i haven't found much of an improvement in quality as it oozes while traveling to the holes. Is there a way CURA can detect multiple perimeters and retract while transferring to those?

After install UM2 can't read Sd Card, reverted back to RC9 and it worked again

Dual extrusion was going to be an upgrade kit wasn't it? I did understand UM0 was more for tinkerers and UM2 for plug and play but when the said will upgrade to Dual Extrusion I didn't think it was exempt of any upgrades.

Yeah I'm another very disappointed customer who brought the UM2 for dual extrusion. I'm even more disappointed to see that the work is diched and not put on hold. UM0 took 3 years to get heated bed upgrade. Would be nice if Ultimaker had said that if new improvements in technology and materials came along then work would continue. I hope ultimaker doesn't turn into one of those companies that just makes new printers to solve issues with there previous ones leaving there existing printers with inherent problems. When I got my UM2 I could see that the UM0 had different upgrade kits available and they promised that they would continue to support all their printers. I was hoping that the dual extrusion kit might have upgraded nozzle design to fix some of its issues. So I hope upgrade kits do come out for UM2 despite the lack of dual extrusion.

I normally put mine in the front seat with the seat belt. That way i can reach across and hold it on sharp corners

Why Are you afraid? :wink:

Yeah, in our metal shop at school we made flintlock pistols. then in wood shop we made cases for them to go in.

I want a built in web cam with phone app support so i can view / pause from anywhere. Also higher temp capacity so i can print PEI ULTEM 9085 filament. larger X-Y build plate also and closed chamber as long as its not fugly. dual extruder with easy change nozzle size with a hole selection of CHEAP replacement nozzles. would be cool if someone could develop a good anti ooze valve or something in the nozzle. I know the Robox has a needle valve system but have no idea if its any good.

I saw that to. Good to see i made a good choice. Does this mean I'm more desirable seeing i have one? I wish..

You declare its a simple manual for beginners, but the beginning could be rather confusing for some users. 1A starts off with something that is not supplied with the printer and no description of what it is. I personally wouldn't use any sprays inside my printer as i wouldn't want any residue to get over everything, but that just my preference. It would be good for complete novices to understand if, why, when they need to use adhesives, How much is to much? and how to apply the tape? As with Roberts guides, pictures are always helpful. 7A would be a good example of this. Just remember, everyone has different backgrounds and skill base. so it has to be written in a way that everyone can understand.

if you find it catches on bits as its traveling you can try z-hop. you can adjust the hop so any oozing doesn't hit the other pieces.

Yeah I found my limit switch tongue was bent from the factory. but it looked like it was done that way on purpose, so i just bent it back a bit. Daid has just released a RC8 version of CURA that has changes to the build volume with some corrections relating to the clips. you could try this also or wait to the official release which should come out soon.

If you use Roberts feeder i made this to oil the filament: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-snap-on-guide-with-oiler Filaflex is really grippy and this helped

Hi I had the same problem and no one responded to my question but I was able to fix it by bending the arm on the homing limit switch so it homes a little more to the left. then when it prints it doesn't hit the side.

Work yes, work well no. there are a lot of factors that can effect the quality of a print and sticking to the quick print settings can limit the ability to get the best results. Normal setting will be to fast for the advice gr5 is giving.

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/25-removing-the-ultimaker-2-nozzle

I'm not good at the artsy stuff but here is an idea anyway. Its the Ultimaker robot that's like a transformer that turns into tools. As Ultimaker is all about making stuff and I guess the robot symbolizes that you have a robot that makes stuff for you. So these little transformer bots turn into the tools that build the new Ultimakers. or stuff that you want to make. I just thought of it and thought I should enter while I can but I'm sure I could come up with 8 different robots that do different things. they start off looking normal then the legs extend down for handles and parts rotate or move inside etc..

Mine turned out like that so I sanded the bottom so it was nice and flat and re drilled the hole. Months later it's still going strong. If you don't have the correct size drill bit (3.2mm by memory, but u should check) then you can get a sharp pointed knife and remove the lip on the inside edge.

Hi Daid Every time I update Cura, the update notification window loads behind the main Cura screen. I have missed this sometimes and manually selected firmware update instead of the simpler update button on the notification window. I'm using OS X Yosemite.