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Posts posted by Labern
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you seem to complain a lot
the default temp settings can actually be way off depending on what you are printing. I never use the default settings
you can load the stl file on youmagine. Not sure about gcode but you could try loading it there 2.
What material? PLA?
Temp?
Speed?
Layer Height?
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Sounds like its still not fully clean. normally if the nozzle is partly blocked the filament curls up as it comes out.
try getting a thin bit if wire and poke it up the hole then do a circle motion to try and wipe any dirt off the sides. do it while hot may help. Then do atomic again. i had to do this once to fully clean it out.
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Hi,
I don't know about support in America but I had one shipped to New Zealand a few months back and it was packed well and arrived with no issues.
Dual Extrusion is commented at the end of this article: https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/09/20/introducing-ultimaker-original-and-a-heated-bed-upgrade-kit
More info: http://cdn.makezine.com/make/magazine/V42-preview.pdf
It's a awesome printer and although some people experience slow responses from support sometimes. The community on this forum makes up for it with a lot of experienced users providing an extensive amount of information and help where needed.
most problems can be resolved here without the need to contact support and there are a few people from Ultimaker reading posts on the forum that provide help also.
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oh, nice shape! Did u design by yourself or did u find somewhere online?
There is a similar one on thingiverse but had incorrect hole size for sparrows and to many other issues so i designed my own.
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I saw some sparrows in my back yard collecting some stuff for there nests the other day, So I decided to print them a wooden bird house.
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Hi
I remember reading a post not long ago and they were saying Glow-fill is really abrasive.
Cant find it now but it sounds like you are not the only one.
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Hi Woofy,
you are speeding ahead! The crash was luckily/..unfortunately ( :wink: ) not as spectacular as the title made it sound.
Of course by all means you should do whatever you want to do, but I was hoping we could do this as a group project
and we could all benefit from the amazing wide range of skill sets we have in this community
I would also like to contribute to a group project as my main expertise is engineering and not with electronic equipment.
It Is kind of good having a few people build some, so they can tell us what works and what doesn't.
I think if you want a group project then at some point someone will have to decide what will be the requirements.
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the Robox seen here:
Has needle valves in the nozzles for it dual extruder.
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I had the S2 and passed on the S3. By the time I wanted a new phone they were massive, so I got the S4mini which is the same size as my old S2
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Polycarbonate is awesome material. There are people that have looked into modifying there printers to be able to print with it. I think most people don't as it's known that you need higher then 260 degrees to print with it. Interesting though that you were able to print with it.
It's something that I would love to print with but haven't bothered with the current temp restrictions.
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can you change the settings on the pictures (public?) I can't open large versions.
I can't find where you can change this to public
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I was using a .8mm nozzle and printing at 210deg at 30mm/s and .2 layers. Was printing with 1 shell thickness of .8
I will need to adjust temps a little but when it was printing i could actually see it jumping across the corner as per the blue line in the slicer picture. yes i have noticed there no actual holes but its leaving blobs on the inside edge of the receiving corner.
What looks like under extrusion, spirals around the vase the whole way up and is actually a thicker line then the rest and is at the same points where its jumping the corner.
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HI
Im trying to print a small vase and have just a single outer layer. I set it on spiralize out contour.
As it was printing I noticed it has small gaps spiralling around the vase on the corners.
I went back and could see it in Cura. (yeah I know i should have checked before printing)
Is there any fix for this?
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You have a space at the end of the URL, if you click on it you have a 404.
But thanks for the vid!
Btw, take how many was that?
Removed space.
Was Take 1. Hence it shows me turning it the wrong way. Couldn't be bothered changing the nozzle out again for a better video. Started removing the fans before I remembered to start the video.
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In sketchup if you install the clean up 3 plugin and solid inspector. These are a must if you are using the files for 3d printing to make sure it's a solid.
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Just uploaded the nozzle change video on youtube
just make sure you undo it the right way not like me :mrgreen:
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In Cura on the RHS there is view mode. select layers and if support structure is going to be printed you can see it there before you even try printing it.
there are a few settings you can adjust for support structure. sometimes it doesn't print if the item is thin or small or if its at a set angle.
If you select FULL SETTINGS then go to OPEN EXPERT SETTINGS then you see a section called Support. there you can adjust the support amount and the overhang angle. Without seeing you model its hard to know what wrong. but you can adjust those the look at the layer view and see if it will print the support.
Sketchup Also saves as STL file. STL is the most widely used format.
If you look at the X-Ray mode it will show up any problems with your model in red.
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Ok ill try to make one soon, maybe this weekend.
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i'm now able to change over my UM2 Nozzles within 5 mins and that includes re-leveling time. I find it quite easy.
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Just a word of caution, changing the bed temp can cause the print to come unstuck from the build plate. Glass shrinks at a different rate as PLA and this can cause the print to pop off.
You can get away with it on some small prints like the one your trying to print but I wouldn't recommend it on larger ones.
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there is FilaFlex, flexible PLA, Ninja Flex and Form Futura Flex Pla and Probably others
they are difficult to print with. some near on impossible to get a really nice print every time on an UM2.
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Its trying to print a overhang with no support. Im guessing you are using PLA. print colder and slower. 190 degree and 30mm/s. Make sure your fans are on 100% and increase your layer height to 0.1mm. Larger layer heights print overhangs better.
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I have a UM2.
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What time (& timezone) will the announcements take place?
Hopefully I don't have to set my alarm for the middle of the night to find out the news.
New improvements in the making
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
There are different people posting different things on the forums, some only give advice and some only what they have made etc. there could be a badge for different types of fields and some people might have multiple badges.
For newbies it could be good to know you are getting advice from a good source.
if you see someones profile with a maker badge then you could click and see all the amazing things they have printed.
this could make you more inspired or you could ask tips on how they get those fine details etc.