Labern

Hi I remember reading a post not long ago and they were saying Glow-fill is really abrasive. Cant find it now but it sounds like you are not the only one.

I would also like to contribute to a group project as my main expertise is engineering and not with electronic equipment. It Is kind of good having a few people build some, so they can tell us what works and what doesn't. I think if you want a group project then at some point someone will have to decide what will be the requirements.

the Robox seen here: Has needle valves in the nozzles for it dual extruder.

I had the S2 and passed on the S3. By the time I wanted a new phone they were massive, so I got the S4mini which is the same size as my old S2

Polycarbonate is awesome material. There are people that have looked into modifying there printers to be able to print with it. I think most people don't as it's known that you need higher then 260 degrees to print with it. Interesting though that you were able to print with it. It's something that I would love to print with but haven't bothered with the current temp restrictions.

I can't find where you can change this to public

I was using a .8mm nozzle and printing at 210deg at 30mm/s and .2 layers. Was printing with 1 shell thickness of .8 I will need to adjust temps a little but when it was printing i could actually see it jumping across the corner as per the blue line in the slicer picture. yes i have noticed there no actual holes but its leaving blobs on the inside edge of the receiving corner. What looks like under extrusion, spirals around the vase the whole way up and is actually a thicker line then the rest and is at the same points where its jumping the corner.

HI Im trying to print a small vase and have just a single outer layer. I set it on spiralize out contour. As it was printing I noticed it has small gaps spiralling around the vase on the corners. I went back and could see it in Cura. (yeah I know i should have checked before printing) Is there any fix for this?

Removed space. Was Take 1. Hence it shows me turning it the wrong way. Couldn't be bothered changing the nozzle out again for a better video. Started removing the fans before I remembered to start the video.

In sketchup if you install the clean up 3 plugin and solid inspector. These are a must if you are using the files for 3d printing to make sure it's a solid.

Just uploaded the nozzle change video on youtube just make sure you undo it the right way not like me :mrgreen: http://youtu.be/K7NWdaRKDck

In Cura on the RHS there is view mode. select layers and if support structure is going to be printed you can see it there before you even try printing it. there are a few settings you can adjust for support structure. sometimes it doesn't print if the item is thin or small or if its at a set angle. If you select FULL SETTINGS then go to OPEN EXPERT SETTINGS then you see a section called Support. there you can adjust the support amount and the overhang angle. Without seeing you model its hard to know what wrong. but you can adjust those the look at the layer view and see if it will print the support. Sketchup Also saves as STL file. STL is the most widely used format. If you look at the X-Ray mode it will show up any problems with your model in red.

Ok ill try to make one soon, maybe this weekend.

i'm now able to change over my UM2 Nozzles within 5 mins and that includes re-leveling time. I find it quite easy.

Just a word of caution, changing the bed temp can cause the print to come unstuck from the build plate. Glass shrinks at a different rate as PLA and this can cause the print to pop off. You can get away with it on some small prints like the one your trying to print but I wouldn't recommend it on larger ones.

there is FilaFlex, flexible PLA, Ninja Flex and Form Futura Flex Pla and Probably others they are difficult to print with. some near on impossible to get a really nice print every time on an UM2.

Its trying to print a overhang with no support. Im guessing you are using PLA. print colder and slower. 190 degree and 30mm/s. Make sure your fans are on 100% and increase your layer height to 0.1mm. Larger layer heights print overhangs better.

I have a UM2.

What time (& timezone) will the announcements take place? Hopefully I don't have to set my alarm for the middle of the night to find out the news.

When I got my Ultimaker 2 a few months ago the rear fan was really noisy and vibrated heaps. I also noticed on forums some people had quiet ones. I contacted Ultimaker and they sent me out a new one. Unfortunately it was just in an envelope with no protection and it gave more of a screaming sound. So I sent them a video and they agreed it's not normal. So now I'm waiting for my 3rd fan this time hopefully it will be in a box and will be nice and quiet.

Hi when I was printing something the other day that was quite large, the print head hit the right side when doing the skirt. it kind of kept going fine so i just left it as after the skirt it was fine. the thing that puzzled me is that it was blue in cura not grey and was central on the bed. I have now just started to try and print one of those wallets from XYZ. It was grey when i loaded it and after a lot of playing around i found it went blue after turning the skirt off. I kind of moved it away from the right side as much as i could as its very wide but when i started the print it hit the front and the belt jumped a tooth with a bang. So, If the item in cura is blue is this meant to mean its ok and won't collide or is it just saying yip thats on the glass or do I have a setting off? Thanks

My raspberry pi arrived today. I was looking for a case also. Cool to know there are mounting holes. There are also extension cables here http://www.bitwizard.nl/shop/rpi-camera-extension apparently they tested them successfully up to 4m/13 ft. I researched this before I order my pi. I was going to mount the camera at the rear by the stepper motors looking forward and run the cable in behind the covers. But seeing you can get really long ribbon cables it could run along with the led cables and up the front looking back.

It would also take forever to print this especially if you want to paint it straight out of the printer. with all that detail you wouldn't want much cleanup work after printing before you paint it. otherwise you will be sitting there sanding until your graduation day, unless you vapour polish. if you vapour polish then you might loose some of those small details like the small spikes on its nose. You may want to find a new piece to hang on your wall. maybe a cute waving octopus?? :-P

It seems like the day it will eventually be released will be a busy day for sales at Ultimaker. I'm just patiently waiting for it to arrive. If they release it to soon then it will be rushed, problematic and probably not the best solution. So it's better to give them time to implement it properly. When you dream about the possibilities and things you can use it for does really make you want it now though. It will be nice to have a bigger nozzle on one side so then you can use the bigger one for woodfill and other problematic filaments but still retain the smaller one for pla etc.. without have to swap out nozzles.

I have the low friction spool holder but I still use a filament Guide. I just designed my own one with a roller so it works a bit better. You can download it here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-filament-guide