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  1. Saw this the other day, but haven't tried it.
  2. Looks like you had fun with this! Thanks for sharing. I had to laugh when I saw the Ninjaflex bend test result! I've not used ti before. Was it like testing a noodle?
  3. Not sure if this will help but I'll share my experience with the same problem. In my case I changed FROM ABS TO PLA, and some of the ABS remained just below the teflon above the nozzle. Took me a few hours to figure it out. I basically removed the teflon piece and tried to pass a piece of PLA through it and found it was too small at the bottom. Since the ABS was white, I had no chance to see it stuck to the teflon. Because of the partial obstruction, there was too much back pressure at the extruder. Once cleaned out, it worked like new again.
  4. The ring was inside the PTFE part. After I separated the metal isolator and PTFE part, I fed a piece of filament through the teflon part and it would not pass through the bottom. It was well hidden since the only ABS I have run is white. I did the atomic method with ABS at 110 and later PLA at 90. I suspect the ABS tries helped, because the first few had a real thin, long point, where it probably didn't get too far into the hot area.
  5. I was having terrible under extrusion all week. I cleaned out the nozzle twice, performed the atomic method many times, and still nothing. The shape of the slug from the atomic method made me curious. It was narrow about an inch from the end, but still had a nice taper at the tip. Seemed like it was stretching a bit before finally coming out. Finally I removed the teflon spacer and found there was a hardened white ABS ring at the bottom. I passed a 1/8 inch drill bit through by hand to clear it out and now all is running well. There has got to be a better way to change material. I ca
  6. Who do I contact to check on my parts order placed on Sunday? Still not shipped yet but showing "ready" for awhile now.
  7. I'm printing at 50mm/s. Would humidity be a factor? It started raining part way through, and while the UM2 is in a climate controlled room, the window right behind it was open, for ventilation.
  8. Any idea what causes these blemishes? The lines are openings in the side of the print. 260 deg C material, 90 deg C build plate, 49% fan after first few layers. The bumps seem to be on the top layers, but doesn't seem like pillowing as shown in the guide. Could the marks be burnt material? Link:
  9. Thanks for the detailed response. I hadn't thought about leveling by eye. Hopefully my aging eyes are up to the task. Maybe I'll try with an eye loop. :smile: And that sounds like good advice to keep the springs reasonably tight. I find myself on the loose side usually.
  10. I would like to be more consistent with bed leveling. I'm using paper at .005 inch thick (.127 mm) but it seems that can be too tight. I would like to use shim stock at .0055 or .006 inch (.140 or .152 mm). But with springs involved, and with various thicknesses of glue, what are the best practices for the most consistent bed leveling? If this topic has been covered before, links appreciated!
  11. What is the thinking on the material thickness? 2.85 +/-0.1. Will it be ok for Ultimaker 2?
  12. Some of the alloys containing Bismuth have a much lower melt temp. Would be interesting to try. http://www.indium.com/solders/bismuth/
  13. Good call with the clips. I just started using the clip type where the end attaches to another loop of material in the spool. I can see how it would be easy to get a knot. I'll use the binder clips! Thanks everyone for the comments and ideas. :cool:
  14. I lost a few long prints recently due to the material not coming off the spool neatly. Seems like the free end of the material is under a loop of other material a layer down on the spool After a few hours of printing everything gets tight and the feeder can't pull the material through. Any thoughts on how to address this problem? I tried to re spool a few meters before starting but it doesn't get me through a long print.
  15. Well, this is still a mystery to me. The settings on my UM2 have the right diameter. Any other thoughts?
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