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Everything posted by randyinla

  1. Thanks! Yeah, I ruined plenty of prints way back when I first toyed around with the vapor. I was surprised how fast this one smoothed out. Was literally 20 or 30 seconds. Another thing I love about the process is that once the acetone evaporates, that smooth skin seems harder and more durable than when first pulled off the print bed.
  2. I printed that vise out last week. I just have the two pad inserts left to do. Funny, I broke one of those threads in two places after it completed printing and glued it back together. Fragile! Need to print another one, though, I might import it into Solidworks and see if I can add cutouts for some nuts at the ends of the threads. Then I can insert a long, thin, threaded metal rod inside each plastic thread for better strength. I don't recall the layer height I printed it at, but it was probably .1mm. Mine printed out with one side of the pitch flatter than the other, too. Seems bette
  3. An ex co-worker gave me a small Dopey figurine (from Snow White) when she left. I thought it'd be fun to scan it and print her out a replica. As I was preparing to take pictures for uploading to 123DCatch, it slipped and fell to the floor, shattering into a million pieces :(. When I told her about the accident, she said she'd prefer some other Disney character. So I had her browse through thingiverse & youmagine and she found this Mickey-Stormtrooper. Printed in MatterHackers pro ABS. The support for his ear fell over, so I quickly paused the print and crazy glued (with kicker) a
  4. Perhaps your layer height is too thick to properly recreate the thread? {assuming you are printing the thread/bolt standing upright and not on its side} What is your layer height now? Can you post pictures and a link to the model?
  5. Not trying to be critical, or mean, or judgmental. My intention is a better forum experience for everyone. . Every single one of your categorized forums has had broken pagination for months. Each page link at the bottom is missing the name/category of the forum in the URL, so clicking any page # results in being switched to a non-categorized forum without realizing it. I saw someone else's post about this from a few months ago and the response was basically, "We had a fix, but when we deployed, it broke a bunch of other things". Can you extract/cherry pick the pagination fix and deploy
  6. I just ordered a spool of Airwolf HydroFill, which is water soluble, has a higher temp melting point and claims to work perfectly with ABS. Will report back once I give it a go.
  7. I thought active leveling was just the auto-level part it does before a print? So it actually adjusts the build plate height during the print?! Wow! Awesome! Thanks for the clarification.
  8. ...so... we can print 215x215x200 (or 300), just not all at the same time, or all of the time? ie.some shapes can reach 215 wide in some areas of the build plate... same for other dimensions?
  9. I've been having the same problem of the dollop of melted PVA/PLA stays attached to the hot end while dragging and ruins the first layer. I rubbed some of the glue stick in the general area the dollops happen and they actually stayed stuck to the glass the last time I printed. Might have to do this every time I print.
  10. Love the idea of this! I tend to open my acrylic door at the last second and grab hold of the dripping filament as the head moves to print the first layer.
  11. I watched the entire remastered TOS and don't recall seeing the canon under the saucer. I am a Software Engineer. Nothing to do with 3D anything. Not a challenge to download/install Cura and then download a model from Thingiverse I mentioned "at work" simply to designate "not close to my 3D printer". ...which is funny, because when I first got my U2, I kept it in my cubicle at work for a few months. Everyone loved stopping by to see what new thing I was printing up.
  12. I've only printed a few things since receiving my U3e over the weekend, but I've noticed a distinct knocking sound that happens during printing. It sounds like something metallic is loose somewhere inside the build area, causing a "tink, tink-tink-tink, tink, tink-tink" pseudo random pattern of tapping/knocking. After some investigation, I noticed if I gently place a finger on the Z-screw, I can feel the tapping pattern. The z-screw definitely is not rotating, but could the stepper motor be 'jolted' somehow as the other steppers are moving around? Like, a surge of power in the current posi
  13. I use Cura 2.5. I seem to remember looking through layer view and not noticing things missing. Having said that, I just downloaded the model here at work and loaded it up in Cura layer view and damn! The dish and nacelle domes are clearly NOT all there. The domes come out like bird claws, grasping something. It was able to print out the "needle" in the middle of the dish. I usually am good about double checking in x-ray & layer view. Will have to be more diligent in the future. I probably won't take the time/filament to print out another Enterprise. However, that is not to say a Kl
  14. I had already downloaded a few Star Trek models from thingiverse and started printing one prior to seeing your post. I linked to it in my first post above. So you've added the protruding text to the model? That's awesome. I had to shrink the model so it'd fit on the build plate. I wonder if I shrunk it so much that the round nacell covers and dish were too thin to print? I've had that happen in the past where a particular feature was thinner than .4mm and didn't print.
  15. The print took 1d 17hrs and the PVA dissolved overnight. There must be something wrong with the model (full of red issues in xray view) because the radar dish didn't print, nor did the rounded front covers to the nacells! The underbelly is rougher than I thought it was going to be, but a 1000 times better than when I printed it on my U2 a few years ago. I love seeing the small windows.
  16. Ah, well, most of my PLA comes from colorfabb.com. I have a roll of bronzefill (LOVE that stuff!), XT Clear, maybe a woodfill of some sort and maybe 5 or 6 colors. Fast delivery, many different options.
  17. I don't bother ever making a slurry. As for 18 hours?! OMG! I keep acetone in a small syringe and printed up some ABS "hockey pucks". I squirt some acetone on the room temperature glass and gently slide the appropriately colored puck around until it starts to get tacky. Only want a thin layer. Will probably be almost transparent. This works very well for me. Read more here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/abs-slurry-puck-mallet
  18. I recently had some awesome prints on my U2 using Matter Hackers Pro Black ABS. I have an acrylic door on the front and an acrylic cover on top. Printed slow and steady, somewhere around 30 for infill & inner shell and 20 for outer shell (hotend at 252 & build plate at 100) and they came out better than anything else I had printed in the past. Here is one example. The support material left some scarring, but I was able to sand that down and give it a 30 second steaming acetone bath for final gloss. The kludgy glued & tied up support was necessary to fix some support that fell o
  19. Layer view works for me in Cura 2.5.0 on Mac El Capitan 10.11.6. I have to wait for slicing to complete, but once it's done, I can drag the slider and see everything fine. Could it be your model? Have you rebooted to try again?
  20. Ah, the spam is on the "Recent" listings. I always have it on the Featured, Popular or Trending, myself.
  21. When I view the model I printed in X-ray view, there are a lot of red areas. Looks like a bunch of small windows and some text on the side of the Nacells and the top of the saucer. Like maybe the person who modeled it deleted them but didn't clean up afterwords? Would be awesome to have "U.S.S. Enterprise NCC-1701" sticking up out of the saucer by .1mm or .2mm.
  22. Nice! I also chose the Enterprise as my first U3e print! (great minds think alike) I specifically chose this model because it was one of the first prints I tried on my U2 a few years ago. Using PLA support back then was horrible!! Tried to print 2 or 3 times, but the support scarred up the surface beyond saving. Have been waiting patiently for dissolvable support ever since! I started this latest print on Sat and it completed a few hours ago while I am stuck here at work, so I haven't seen the final product yet. I rotated it 45 degrees on the build plate and think I chose the Standa
  23. I've only had my U3e 4 days and have only printed one thing that needed PVA support. Since the PVA is intruding into your PLA area, could it be your X/Y calibration needs to be tweaked? Granted, it doesn't look like a uniform intrusion, just partial here and there.
  24. I posted this as a comment on another thread but decided to repost as a new topic so as to have wider exposure. Edit: I somehow posted this under General, so I deleted that and created this one. Apologies! I've been thinking more and more about purchasing an U3 Extended, curious about water-soluble support. I just found out that PVA & ABS isn't going to work and HIPS is a bit of a toxic mess. This bummed me out, so I started looking for other options... Yes, I print things in PLA & Nylon, but I print most things in ABS and would really like to see a viable water-soluble support
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