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randyinla

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Everything posted by randyinla

  1. I just noticed the link at the top of the Notifications menu, "Mark All Read" (I think that's what it said, now that I've clicked it, it isn't visible anymore) doesn't change the cursor to the pointer on mouseover. It does on the "Settings" link to the right of it. .whateverYourMarkAllReadClassNameIs:hover { cursor: pointer; }
  2. I've been printing using various sticking techniques for a few years. Not going to do yet another comparison/test But here's what I found that works best for me... I printed up some small ABS hockey pucks, one for each color/type of ABS I have. I will squeeze a few drops of acetone from a small syringe onto the glass and slide the puck around. This liquifies the bottom of the puck and mixes with the acetone to smear around onto the glass. I slide it around until the acetone is evaporated and I have a very thin, almost imperceivable layer of ABS dried onto the glass. I find doing it this
  3. Hey, SandervG, I saw all the deflections to other materials in multiple posts I have printed things in various PLAs and Nylons and enjoy the materials. Overall, I just like the way my ABS prints have turned out better. To combat warping, I made a plexiglass cover and door for my U2 for a heated enclosure. I use drops of acetone on the glass, smeared around with an ABS "puck" for perfect adhesion that easily pops off the glass when cooled. After printing, I like to suspend some of my ABS parts in a glass mason jar above boiling acetone for a steamy, shiny finish. I have had a challengi
  4. I've been thinking more and more about purchasing an U3 Extended, curious about water-soluble support. I just found out today via this forum that PVA & ABS isn't going to work and HIPS is a bit of a toxic mess. This bummed me out, so I started looking for other options... Has anyone gotten a spool of the new Airwolf HydroFill water-soluble support material? Forum search returned no hits on 'hydrofill' or 'hydro fill'. They claim it works in any FFF printer and works well with ABS. Also claims, "dissolves in clean water without the use of any caustic chemicals, detergents, or solvents
  5. Interesting! So if they don't tell you which side is the tin side, there's no way of figuring it out?
  6. It's a piece of glass that's designed (hopefully) to not warp or shatter under high temps. In that sense, there is no side better than the other. I can tell you to be careful when cooling down. Early on in my U2 usage, I saw a "tip" from someone to spray an upside down can of air onto the glass around the edges of your model to help "pop" it off the glass. This can result (as I found out) in shards of glass separating from the main glass bed and sticking to your model. Don't want to have extreme changes from hot to suddenly cold. Ultimaker were awesome and replaced my glass for free. I'
  7. I have never liked glue sticks. My sticking agent of choice has been hair spray (Loreal Elnett Satin as they are not all created equally) or more recently 3DLAC which is basically the same thing but you know it will work. I have an extra glass that I keep ready as spraying inside the printer leads to a bit of a buildup (though it does cleanup well). It also works for most materials though not always with ABS where the only thing that works 100% for me is Klapton tape. But sticking is a whole 'nuther topic! Whenever I use hair spray, I spray it onto a paper towel outside of the printer
  8. Glad you touched on brim/no-brim for PVA. I'm a fan of squirting out a few drops of acetone onto the glass and swirl it around with an ABS "puck" I made. That creates a thin ABS layer all over the glass that my print sticks to rather well. I don't have a similar method with PLA. If I have dual print of ABS w/PVA, would the PVA stick to a thin layer of ABS or not?
  9. You said you have had issues using the SD card and the icon in Cura is not available... I wonder if your SD Card's write protect switch is on? It wouldn't matter if it was on when trying to read, but if it is write protected and you are trying to save to the SD card from Cura while it is inserted into the UM2, then Cura probably can't write to it. I have had to check the write switch on my SD card many times when trying to save to it on my Mac. Just sliding the card into my Mac can cause the switch to move.
  10. I see the most powerful one at J Tech Photonics is 3.8Watts. A buddy of mine has a Full Spectrum 20" x 12" laser cutter which has a sealed C02 laser tube @ 40W/45W/90W. Obviously, the 3.8W can't cut as deep/fast as those, but is there a similar kit to the J Tech Photonics that is closer to the wattage of the Full Spectrum? I have an U2 and an X-Carve and it would be awesome to have a single laser attachment I could use on both.
  11. Lots of people toying around with fan shroud design. Has anyone tried redesigning the horizontal aluminum piece the hot end attaches to? Since there will never be dual hot ends, why not try to make the overall size of the gantry smaller? Or, if not smaller, at least move the hot end hole in the aluminum to the center? Seems having the hot end currently on the left side of the aluminum would heat up that piece unevenly, and also cool unevenly via the back fan. By having the hot end in the center, the resulting fan shroud angles would be identical for the left and right sides. Seems curre
  12. Any news about step files for U2Ext? I have an X-Carve CNC router coming in a few weeks and would love to cut my CNC teeth on a few taller panels
  13. I made a transparent acrylic cover and front door for my U2 and love it. It's not an air-tight fit, but keeps enough heat in so the ambient temp stays around 80c (I believe that was the temp when I measured it last year with my Fluke w/temperature wire). I didn't really go off any plans or measurements and just eye-balled it so the cables going to the gantry never touch the top. I angled the front piece back a bit so I could look down on top of the print head. Again, the angle was dictated by where the cables to the gantry end up with the head at the front-most position. I tweaked someone
  14. Maybe. But wouldn't that already happen between the hot end and the spacer now? both are flat at the mating point. The spring above keeps pressure on it so material doesn't get in between. If the washer was flat, then it seems to me that it shouldn't be any different. Yes, taking the hot end apart can be a pain, but it seems like more people are complaining about the high cost of ordering a replacement (if they are not entitled to a free one). And yes, the shape has to be correct or it will fail.
  15. I recently picked up a 7x14 mini-lathe. Ordered a 3' length of 1/2" PTFE for under $10 from Amazon. Will try my hand at turning my own spacer and see how it works. PTFE is PTFE, right? I mean, is there "the good stuff" and "the bad stuff"? $10 seemed pretty cheap. If nothing else, I could make a ton of flat washer-type spacers to go between the one from Ultimaker and the hot end. Would make the official spacer last longer, no?
  16. I had a variation on that idea a while ago. Instead of just two on the same plane, rocking back and forth, put three or more around the bottom of a spherical shape, like electric type writers did with the letters on a big metal ball. Then you could swap out with 3 or 4 heads.
  17. I like sites that use my avatar on Gravatar.com. I can setup one avatar and know it will look the same on all of the sites that use it. Update it in one place and they all display it.
  18. If it hit the right block, wouldn't that cause the stepper to skip, which in turn would cause higher layers to be shifted? I simply have to try the piece again and be more aware of what's happening during the print. I should also try to drag the piece a little more to the left rather than click "center object on platform".
  19. Great investigating work! I am sitting here, trapped at work, living vicariously through your experiment Ok. So setting Cura to 232mm width means the center is 1mm to the right. How is that a bad thing? When my piece printed, I believe it looked like I still had maybe 1cm of glass space to the right, so there is enough flooring for the plastic to adhere to. And my gantry never hit the side wall (granted, I had to bend the metal fan housing a tad). Would I really have to tweak/adjust the G1/G92 hacks?
  20. I love that autocorrect, "print head will heat an endblock" (assume you meant meet or hit?) I understand how the end blocks / switches work and how playing with the switch position can yield a teensy bit of room (or take it away if misaligned). Even if I were to do that (and I probably won't) I would still have to update Cura to 231mm or 232mm. This dancing around a few mm's in Cura to print out a 225mm wide piece just reminds me of an underlying angst; that I would LOVE to expand my U2 in both the X & Y by maybe 4" each .
  21. I always assumed the published print volume was the max x/y/z distance the tip of the hot end can reach. I'm curious to make some tests tonight to check max X/Y. Something like a long, thin "stick" with a few mm high walls to see if it can reach the max distance AND create the proper wall thicknesses. As I mentioned above, when I finally got my original model to print, the right wall came out to be maybe 15% the thickness of the left wall, and it was not because the gantry hit the wall, which it never did.
  22. I'm not sure what physical travel I am or am not getting. I was just going off what Cura would allow me to position on the virtual print bed. My 225mm wide model remained grayed out no matter where I dragged it until I told Cura that the width of my machine was 232mm. I have my skirt already set to 0. Are you saying that even with that set, it still takes some external space into consideration? After gently bending my right fan mount, the gantry never hit the right wall, yet, the right wall of my object ended up very thin instead of 1.6mm. I haven't had time to revisit this piece as it
  23. "Submerge it in acetone for 20-30 seconds"?! :shock: I have a lot of Colorfabb's filament, but assumed it was all PLA. I perform an acetone steam bath on my ABS prints (have left steaming between 30 seconds and 5 min, depending on exposure desired and amount of detail willing to lose), but have never submerged anything into the acetone directly and have never tried doing it with any of my PLA because I've always read that it doesn't do anything to PLA :roll:. I've read that some people have tried certain chemicals on PLA to mimic the affects of acetone on ABS but that those chemicals are
  24. Always good to find another Dave fan!
  25. How do you do an acetone treatment to PLA?!
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