randyinla
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Posts posted by randyinla
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... Cooling the parts near where the heat is generated is more effective than cooling the heatsink an inch away.
I'm not entirely convinced of this statement. Given the size of the back fan and CFM (aprox 2.2~3), it would have an easier time cooling an inch away from the heat source rather than blowing directly on it. Heat always travels towards cold. By easily cooling the heat sink an inch away, it gives the heat somewhere to run to, away from the hot end. Trying to reduce the heat directly at its source with such a small fan wouldn't be that effective and doesn't give the built up heat anywhere to go, so it just stays there.
I'm not saying your deflector doesn't work, just that the statement made me wish I had some sort of Flir camera to see the difference. Better still, I wish I could perform heat analysis on the whole hot end assembly to see which is better: blowing on the hot end directly or an inch away down the other end of a heat sink.
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I had the exact same thing happen a few months ago. Post pulled clean out of the encoder. I was able to cobble up some switches to the circuit board so I could still use the machine. Wasn't pretty, felt like redneck engineering, but that's no way to use such a beautiful machine
Contact Simon at support@fbrc8.com. He sent me a replacement circuit board w/encoder, minus the display. Swapped it out in about 5 min. -
Taken out of context, this topic can make you do a double take :eek:
If the ABS pulls don't work, you may have to take the hot end out and manually clean the inside. I've done that by heating up the element, pushing a small length of ABS directly into it, rotating it around a bit to try and break free the burned part, then pull it back out.
If the filament snaps while doing this, leaving some inside, small needle nose pliers come in handy. I was kinda surprised when the filament turned into a taffy-like consistency. I thought it would turn more like pancake batter when heated up instead of that thick, gum-like goo. You can also try gently screwing a deck screw into the goo and pull. Don't want to go in so far to scar up the brass, so be careful. Maybe an ABS printed deck screw? Hmmmm... Would be thicker than just the filament, so wouldn't snap off as easy and wouldn't scratch the brass at all.
Good luck!
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Just left this same tip in another thread.
I clean around my hot end and aluminum fan shroud using a Dremel with wire brush tip on the lowest speed setting. Works beautifully and leaves the metal looking brand new. I too had a failed print go on for about 8 hours, coating everything from the hot end up in molten plastic. Took about 10 - 20 min to clean it all up.
Stay away from the bottom of your hot end with the Dremel. You don't want to reshape it by accident and ruin your prints!!
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I have a Dremel close by and will run it at its lowest speed with a wire brush to give the outside a clean, shiny appearance from time to time. I've had it so blackened at times that tiny bits fall off and into my print. Be careful not to run it around the bottom, flat part where the hole is because you can reshape it by accident. I did that and was printing out tiny troughs instead of flat lines. Was horrible! Pulled a flat file across the bottom a few times as a last ditch effort before having to buy a new nozzle and it worked a treat! I am back to perfectly flat lines of filament again :wink:
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If you keep some acetone in a syringe handy, it's easy to spot weld the ends of ABS filament together on the fly.
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Hey Erik,
Do you have a public bug tracker setup? Would be awesome to have a place we could go to to create tickets vs. coming to the forums where people might end up frustrated and complain?
The only time I've seen 404 errors was when I was logged into the beta tester version. Some pages weren't found, but that was to be expected to some extent.
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Ah, I see. Thank you for the explanation, TinkerGnome. I also read that OctoPrint can save directly to the SD card, but since the max USB serial transmission is 250kbps (31.25KBps), it could take a long time to transfer.
All I was really looking for, originally, was a way to abort a print at home from work if I see it's failed in some way via webcam. Being able to initiate a print remotely isn't that high on the wish list as there is always adhesion prep to be done and that can't happen remotely.
EDIT: If only I could train a Jack Terrier dog... hmmmm.... a monkey, perhaps...
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Technically, it should be possible to add the correct ulticodes, no? I had a look at OctoPrint today and glanced at their open sourced https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Cookbook:-Custom-Controls. Seems anyone can add any gcode that isn't currently supported by OctoPrint, why not add the required ulticode codes for moving the bed, heating, etc.,? Then we wouldn't need to switch over to the reprap marlin setting.
Or is ulticode a completely different protocol and not just extra codes upon the same protocol?
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I used to, yes. Buttons that broke off of an old Akai MPC-2000, Ensoniq EPS-rack, knob for Roland VP-9000 etc. Haven't done so for a few years. I'm hoping to be able to make some molds of new 3D printed things to save time printing many of them. Faster to perfect one, then make a mold of it.
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...It's good to hear +FB about the Smooth On product line. Do you like their mold release spray, too?
I had to go looking through my old supplies to find which mold release I used. I have a can of Mann's Ease Release 200 and Smooth-On's Universal Mold Release. I must have used the Smooth-On more because the can is absolutely empty! I use Oomoo 30 for molds and various plastics; Smooth-Cast 300, Smooth-Cast 305, Smooth-Cast 325, Smooth-Cast 385, Task-9 and a bunch of So-Strong color tints. I've never really been into modeling, but rather, used the products to reproduce lost or broken knobs/buttons from various recording studio gear.
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I just had some arrive yesterday. I want to use it to make T-Glase more transparent and not so much for a final finish coat over the entire print. I have used SmoothOn products for mold-making for years. Looking forward to seeing what this does!
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I looked but can't find an email or forum post stating 2.2 cfm for the original fan, but I remember clearly being concerned about it before ordering the replacement. I believe I had the model # of the original fan and found it on Digikey where it stated it was 2.2. Yes, I may be wrong, but I don't think I am. Because I remember clearly being elated to find that the replacement was also 2.2, which is why I ordered it.
Having said all that, I've had my new Sunon MC25060V2-000U-A99 fan in place since last August, 1/2 year, and everything has been fine with regards to the hot end. I am very happy with the print quality I am getting and I can't hear the fan at all.
It's not that the original fan was just louder by design. This sound was not normal. It was like there were tiny pieces of plastic caught in the bearings. Teeny tiny cats screeching all night and day. I understand what you say about ball/magnetic bearings. Regardless, if they are causing more noise than normal due to excess friction of some sort (dust in the bearings etc.), they are probably also running slower too. When I spoke to other UM2 owners about it, they didn't ever seem to notice that their fan was noisy. I believe some people received quiet fans and some received screechy, noisy fans. Doesn't mean they were different models. It's that simple. From the original post that #47 above points to:
...I did some reading tonight and found that the stock fan has a 3 CFM spec
Like I said above, I believe I too did "some reading" and looked up the original fan as well and found that it was 2.2 cfm. I don't have the original model number of my fan anymore. Are we 100% positive that every single machine always received the exact same model fan? If not, then this whole conversation is a bit silly.
I did find a post where Illuminarti (UM tech support in the US) states that he bought and uses the same fan I bought, and that it is same spec as the original.
A few posts after that, Daid states that Digikey refuses to export that model fan to them... which tells me it was ok for Ultimaker to seek out and put in their machines if they could get their hands on them.
FWIW, The replacement fan is fine. The cfm of the replacement fan is fine for it's designated purpose. I would much rather use this fan than try to cobble or hack a physically larger fan simply because of a few cfm more. Also, keep in mind that this fan was put in place to potentially cool two heads and we all only have one. So perhaps 3.0 cfm is "too much" for just one hot end?
Whichever fan you buy, I hope it is not loud and screechy as my original fan was. May you have many beautiful prints free from any hot end strangeness due to too much or not enough air moving across the hot end
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Illuminarti, do you have the specifications of the original UM2 fan? I am a bit suspicious how the "compatible" fan could be so much quieter while pushing the same amount of air.
Axsdenied: I poked and prodded my original back fan before deciding to replace it. If I warped its squareness a little bit, the noise would be significantly reduced. This lead me to believe that the squealing sound it made to be more bad bearings, or just a bad run of fans. It was NOT working as designed. The replacement fan is almost dead quiet. From what I read about the CFM of both, they are identical.
How do you determine the replacement fan is providing less cooling? The only thing I've seen you mention is RPM, which is not the only factor. you want to compare CFM Cubic Feet per Minute. Two fans running at the exact same RPM can have different CFM rating if the pitch of the fan blades are different.
I know the CFM of my original and replacement fans were both 2.2cfm and the two fans look identical when side by side.
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I didn't make the sausage.
I just linked it...Ha! I see what you did there... linked sausage.
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...(Also, Chrii, you can print USB with the UM2. It's just not officially supported due to potential problems. It works, and it will remain working. But it's not a feature that we want to burden our support department with)
Is it possible to abort a print via USB? I got a GoPro camera so I can monitor print progress remotely. It would be AWESOME to be able to abort failed prints remotely (via remote desktop to home computer, then abort UM2 via USB).
In my initial feedback I mentioned not really to care about a bigger print space, this has changes as I am currently getting to the limits, so if the print space could be inceased in one (horizontal) direction, that would be great as I use it currently heavily for prototyping. Ideal horizontal would be to allow 19" prints (mock up front panels for rack mount equipment), so 500 mm x 250 mm horizontal I would appreaciate, vertical I have not even come close to any limits so far.kuno
+1. I too would LOVE to be able to print mockups for 19" rack mount pieces! Printing two pieces and gluing them together is yucky.
Why do you hate moving the head manually? It would drive me nuts if I had to wait for the machine to move the head when doing stuff like that. If you worry about damaging the printer by moving the head manually, don't.Ah! Which reminds me... a way to un-lock the homed head so one CAN freely move the gantry around. Whenever my gantry goes to the home position, the steppers stay on and I cannot move it around. I have to power cycle the machine to get it released again. When changing material, it pulls the old material out while in the home position but then moves front and center when adding the new one. I've had the feeder motor grind into my filament during the removal because the bowden tube angle is much tighter and the material doesn't move as freely. And if I have to pull the filament out by hand, it is much harder to do while in the home position.
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I bought a few 1qt mason jars with lids and heat up the acetone on my UM2 build plate with no issues.
- Make a hook out of a paper clip & tape onto the bottom/inside of one of the mason jar lids. Make the hook long enough so the bottom of your dangled part is just above the top of the acetone, not touching.
- Heat up bed to 90c
- Place mason jar with few teaspoons of acetone already inside onto the build plate and cover with a second lid (no hook on this one) to keep the vapors in
- Watch as the vapors start climbing up the sides of the jar
- Put your part onto the hook hanging from the prepared lid
- When the vapors are high enough so that your dangled part would be 'submerged', swap the lids, gently lowering your part into the jar
- How long to leave in is personal preference
- When finished, pull out your part and simply lower it into another mason jar without acetone and let dry. I also had a few long, thin wooden sticks clamped upright with clothespins that I would dangle finished parts on to dry.
I had 12 identical prints and left them in from 30seconds up to 5min in 30sec increments and didn't really notice a difference at all between 30sec and 5min. The parts didn't have too much intricate detail, so maybe longer would cause you to loose some of that? I now leave mine in betwen 45sec-1min and pull them back out. Just enough to wet the surface.
For these small prints, tackiness dry time seemed to only take a few minutes. I could touch the sides and it felt dry and smooth as silk, leaving no fingerprints. The ABS still needs time to re-solidify, a few hours, but you can gently pick it up after a few min.
You could probably find larger jars with lids for doing larger prints, but the inside of the UM2 is only so big.
Edit: If I remember, I'll take some pics when I get home tonight.
- Make a hook out of a paper clip & tape onto the bottom/inside of one of the mason jar lids. Make the hook long enough so the bottom of your dangled part is just above the top of the acetone, not touching.
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I liked the additional 4" height of the UMextended, but what I'd really, REALLY love is 4" more in the X & Y! I realize that adding height alone doesn't introduce much more in the way of stability compared to wider/longer XY rods. Would thicker rods help? Anyway, larger build area would be #1 on my list.
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I too am disappointed in this announcement re:no dual extrusion. However, I find myself disappointed in the delivery of the message and, more so, the final reasons given for cancellation, not the cancellation itself.
When Ultimaker first announced they weren't going to make their first release date, the reasons were all about heat and how the currently designed metal carriage needed to be redesigned. Ok. Sounds like a serious issue, but not unsolvable. I was excited to hear what little details were surfacing about teflon/ceramic this, aluminum redesign that, possibly some other material all together etc. Was like watching a mini drama where you had a gut feeling that everything would work out in the end, but the journey was rocky and captivating. The reassuring messages from Ultimaker that they were working on it were satisfying and made me respect them for tackling something they didn't foresee as having such issues in the beginning. Then the announcement of 1st qtr 2015 made me feel like they had beat it. They knew the issue, they came up with a solution and now just needed to implement it. Job well done, I thought.
Whenever there has been a new announcement, it has been plastered everywhere. This latest announcement about never delivering dual extrusion wasn't front page on the website, not on the U2 product page, not emailed/tweeted/Facebook'd news. It wasn't even posted in the main long thread re:dual extrusion. I heard of it because someone posted a reply to one of my threads that it wasn't going to happen. I corrected him, assured him they had it solved and we just had to wait. He directed me to this thread.
Whatever could be the cause? I thought to myself. Must be more heat issues or inability to prevent drooling when switching nozzles, something requiring another redesign of this or that... Whatever it is, these are problem solvers, tinkerers, engineers who have the world of open source resources & knowledge at their beck and call to triumph over any such metallurgical setbacks! But no. The final reasons given as to why such a huge project had finally succumbed to our limited knowledge of all things in the known universe... the reasons why this group of engineering warriors had fallen... "You will have scratches on your print and your prints may fall over". WHAT THE BLEEP?!? :shock: Delivered with a sort of, "you'll shoot your eye out!" parental stance.
Dear Ultimaker marketing person(s): I already get scratches on my prints. I already have tall prints knocked over and dragged around. Those things don't prevent me from using your wonderful product.
If the 2nd (or 3rd or 4th) head is secured at the same height as the 1st head, how does this pose any more probability that you will get scratches or knocked over prints than already exist? Cannot z-hop be applied to the 2nd head as well as the 1st? I am used to sanding my prints to remove scratches. I am used to cleaning the build area of a failed angel-haired-mess and starting the print over. This doesn't seem like a reason for not having dual extrusion, imho. If dual extrusion could possibly blow up, cause a fire, or actually "shoot my eye out", then yes, those are good reasons.
Stating reasons that already exist with the current hardware as reasons for not adding dual extrusion seem completely disconnected and nonsensical to me. Like someone in marketing who has no knowledge of the actual issues came up with the statement. Imagine if Bugatti said, "We've decided not to release the new Bugatti Veyron because you may catch your trousers on the door while getting in." Maybe you just decided you've thrown enough time and money at it? I don't know. I would respect and accept that answer more than the one given. If it truly is scratches and knocking things over, nothing more challenging than already exists, just more of the same, then why not state that clearly on the dual kit page, offer no support etc. Let the consumer decide if they'd like to have a go at it. Together, as a community, if we had access to what you have done so far, we might possibly be able to figure out something to add to it. "Climb onto the shoulders of those before us" kind of thing. Making a throw away, misleading statement about scratches and closing the doors to the Wonka factory provide no shoulders and no progress.
I still love my U2 and respect all the time and effort that went into making it possible. I look forward to any other innovations Ultimaker has up its sleeve. I am not mad. I am frustrated, as I am sure you are.
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Once and for all, a quick and easy method for getting your ABS to stick.
Over time, I have developed this method, and it works 100% of the time. It has zero waste, and is the most cost effective way I have found to apply a thin film of ABS to the glass.
(...)
Thank you for sharing your method, Solid Print 3D! (don't know your name) I modeled my puck after the hand-held "mallets" used to play air hockey. I had some syringes laying around so keep one full of acetone close by at all times now. I had a panic at first, thinking, "OMG! What if the syringe is made of ABS?!?" :shock:
Works great! Printed up one for every color ABS spool I own. My favorite thing about this method is that no matter how messy the slurry looks, it's still the same color as the filament I'm using, so the bottom is flawless! No glue swirls.
Edit: I've adjusted and uploaded my .stl to youmagine. The bottom hole is now large enough so they stack on top of one another when not in use.
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I made a similar part to the one in your photo over the weekend and played with turning on/off combing for all or everything except skin and I saw no difference in printing. I had no lines or drools between perimeters as your photo shows. Even had my first line @ .3mm, which I never do. I wanted to make one giant hole in the center to kind of force a combing operation and try again, but I got too tired
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Ah. So it's not even attempting retraction over the 45 degree fill area, only on the borders? Hmmm It would seem that turning off combing for the skin surfaces should not turn off retraction all together. It should just go from one point straight to the next, regardless of holes in the path. I happened use the "no skin" combing feature for the print I made last night and did not notice such drooling while moving the head between cutouts on my first layer. But I have only upgraded Cura to 15.01, have yet to flash the U2 firmware. Perhaps that is why?
My bowden tube is snug, no movement whatsoever. I read a few posts when I first joined UM forum saying to increase the retraction length to help get rid of stringing. I played around with it for a while and found that 5.35mm @ 45mm/s works great for me. No stringing OR oozing during travels. My feeder doesn't grind away the filament, either, when I have a retraction-heavy print. I use |Robert|'s feeder and only had it grind away my filament when I had criss-crossed the material on the spool once, basically turning it into a knot. The only thing I hate about 5.35mm/45mm/s retraction is the sound of the feeder motor when it retracts. I have enclosed my U2 and added a front door for ABS prints, so it's dead quiet except for that "screech/screech" sound due to the high speed and length... but I LOVE the results of it, so I deal with it.
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FYI: I contacted Colorfabb a few days ago and they said brassfill's availability is delayed until the end of February.
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I have printed a few things in Colorfabb's clear XT and T-Glase, hoping to make things like windows for model cars or buildings. The end results were the same, crappy. Both product manufacturers suggest the thicker the layer, the better, as this refracts the light less than thin layers. However, you still can't see through it as if it were glass.
Just found this new use for Taulman's T-Glase filament. It fills in the voids around the edges of the layers and makes it more optically flat, like glass. Taulman claims it's some chemical bonding that magically happens with their filament, so I don't know if it will work on other "clear" filaments or not.
(I am not affiliated with either company)
The results in this post look amazing.
http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html
Contact Simon at support
I just linked it...
Teflon spacer replacement
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Perhaps if we strapped a fan to the bird's back?