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  1. You'll be very happy with your new printer. :mrgreen:
  2. I ordered a UM2 with two spools of abs and it took 4 days to ship. It took FedEx 48 hours to get it from Netherlands to Orlando, Florida. Not too bad if you ask me.
  3. Wow, 14 days between contact. I'd be pissed.
  4. I ordered my UM2 last week and its delivery estimate is early this coming week. I'm very happy to see it moved through rather quickly. I did however receive the call from FedEx requesting an importer document be filled out ( CBP 5106 ). More ridiculous homeland security crap IMHO. In addition to this documentation he requested that an actual dollar amount value be given to the cable. I'm not really bothered or making a gripe, but more of a suggestion. When ordering or invoicing is there any way this cable can simply be included inside the UM2 box or not be specifically called out as a detailed item with $0.00 of value ? Or at the very least reduce the UM2 printer cost the value of the cable and apply an actual value to the cable on paper to have to avoid explaining to some person over the phone that your new printer can't be used without a cable to supply power. I'd rather pay the fees on the $1.00 US for the cable than have to have such a trivial conversation. For any US buyers here is the file you'll be asked to fill out. http://forms.cbp.gov/pdf/CBP_Form_5106.pdf
  5. Dim3nsioneer - PET looks great actually..It takes to vapor/liquid smoothing. It's been just a few months since I looked into anything new and there's already all sorts of new filaments floating around which is awesome to have this much flexibility. The best thing appears to be plate adhesion compared to ABS, on large prints with my prusa I had a horrible time. Small prints came out great though. I'll definitely be ordering a roll to check it out. Gr5 - I did notice the printed filament oilers floating around. I'm definitely not worried about print speeds, generally I slow down to around 50mm-60mm either way, I definitely prefer quality over speed. anon4321 - That clear looks incredible. Thanks for the link.
  6. I have used a soldering iron to join two parts with success. Just take a piece of filament and use this as your "welding rod" to liquefy and fill in the crevice that will be created. Aside from 3D prints I've used this technique to hack weld pcv pipe to each other.
  7. Right now I'm most interested in ABS because that's the material I feel I need for the part I would like to print. But PLA is definitely on the way. I definitely want to try that gummy filament for squishy stuff
  8. Very cool! I was actually brainstorming and thought about doing something like this. An under tail section with fender eliminator and maybe a standoff for a power commander ..yours looks awesome. Very cool to see
  9. I've done quite a bit of reading through the forums and feel the ultimaker has the kind of base i like to see in a open source product. I started with a diy rep rap and wanted something more precise and reliable, so here I am. UM2 and a few spools of ABS filament were ordered today so we'll see how it goes, can't wait to receive it!
  10. These are the posts/threads that most concern me as a potential buyer. I just got rid of my Prusa, which although quite a learning experience wasn't much of a printing experience. I learned all of the things I don't want to have to deal with when it comes to my next printer. $90 US for a new print tip is ludicrous and almost insulting when taking into account that Chinese copies will soon be on eBay for less than $3 US shipped! I'd rather buy for toy from the product manufacturer to retain tight tolerances, but as a consumer you just have to look at some potential purchases and calculate the cost of maintenance into the overall purchase price. I'd hate to have to replace a faulty control board or thermistor with these kinds of prices set for a simple cap with a hole drilled through it.
  11. I'm in florida and am very interested. I'll send you a PM.
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