bas-van-beek
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Posts posted by bas-van-beek
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It depends on the filament as well, now I am printing colorfabb translucent orange, 85% of 50mms at 225 degrees. All the other colorfabb doesn't work. Will get a new temp sensor this monday, hope that will fix all my problems...
Thanks!
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When I start up the um 2, the temperature of the nozzle and heater bed are the same, about 20 degrees.
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Ok tested it, doesn't boil at 110 degrees, when I put a drop of water in it it goes down to 90/88 degrees. It boils however at 140 degrees. Could this mean my temp sensor is 40 degrees off. When I put the drop in it it falls back to 100 degrees.
Thanks
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Oh thanks, will check. Didnt get a new temp probe.
The plastic insulation has a small cut close to the probe, exposing the metal insulation. Asked support and they told me this shouldnt be a problem. Gonna go to one of their meetings, AA but for ultimakers, next monday.
Will keep you updated
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I've been trying to solve this problem for a month now.
When I first got the UM2 I was so happy, everything worked fine.
After a couple of prints with different filaments I had major underextrusion, took apart the nozzle, cleaned, 20 times if not more. Support did send a new glass inforced teflon insulator.
That didn't solve it, then I got a complete new hot-end. After this I was able to print but with way higher temperatures and slower speed than before. What used to work fine with 210 degrees, 50/mms, needs to be adjusted now to 220/228 degrees with 80-90% of 50/mms. Also I need to increase the feeder pressure a notch.
The ultimate test came with colorfabb xt, which used to work perfect on 250 degrees and 50/mms but is unable to print nice and shiny threads with 260 degree and 85% of 50mm/s
The question is what is wrong? The temperature is not getting high enough, is this a hardware/software/firmware problem, and how do I fix it?
Thanks in advance, it's opening a whole new area in my brain committed to frustration and despair...
Bas
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I bought the drills, 3mm, 3.5mm and 4 mm.
After the 3mm drill out, the cold pull was as it should be. Will post some photo's to clarify soon.
Thanks in advance!
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Ha I got a new teflon glass piece couple of days ago.
Took apart the head again, to check the new piece after a couple of days and there are scratches but it moves nicely.
Printing at 0.2mm at 50 mm/s
I thought even it would be the brand new filament I got, last weekend I printed super with bronzefill. Now it's back to the same old problems.
Printing the Ultimaker Robot on different temperatures, the 210 C was not so pretty, the 200 C is looking a bit better but same problem in same areas.
The horror...
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So I got the amazing ultimaker 2 one week ago, it was working fine, now its not.
It gave me some spectacular prints though.
I have a severe case of underextrusion, it starts after 3 or more layers.
-the hotend is clean, thanks to many atomic pulls
-the filament pressure is just as it was, tweaking it doesn't help
-same more increasing material flow with a couple percent works 5 minutes and then it stops flowing.
-the g code files that worked fine don't work anymore, so it must be a hardware problem.
And the strange thing is that I need to print at way higher temperatures everytime I start a new print to even 245 degrees!
Even at this temperature the material comes out as chewinggum now, if I print at 210 degrees nothing comes out, but only a couple of days ago it was working super fine. The filament needs to come out as shiny threads, now its just a mess.
Does the UM 2 have temperature issues? And if it is a hardware thing, how do I fix it? Can I re-calibrate is or is the hotend sensor burnt?
Thanks!
Bas
UM2 hot-end not getting hot enough...
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Ah yes, so I went to the Ulti-evening, couldn't be fixed. Brought it to the UM office. The feeder was replaced, the hot end replaced (number 3) and it prints at normal temperatures now, so happy!
Wonder how long it will last.
thanks for all the help...