Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

amedee

Expert
  • Content Count

    1,140
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Everything posted by amedee

  1. Strange... The only time I got a MINTEMP was because I had the wrong polarity on the thermocouple, so an increase in temp would make the display go down. But you already tested that... MINTEMP is triggered when the temp reading is below 5°C, so unless it is freezing in your workshop, I see no reason to get that error. Maybe for whatever reason it takes some time for the probe to give an accurate temperature reading and this triggers the MINTEMP at power-on. Are you still using the original thermocouple amplifier?
  2. Yes indeed, I also have an UMO with HBK and I installed an E3D hot end. You definitely need the 24v version. I initially mounted it "as such", so it gets 19v. It works fine, even for high temperatures -- I printed PC at 280°C in this configuration -- but it is does not warm up as fast as with 24v. If you consider using the Volcano 19v is probably not enough. You can easily by-pass the 19v step down and use 24v directly, I recently posted an howto for that. Re the mount there are plenty available, I posted my own as well.
  3. Beyond the responsiveness of the servers, the overall architecture of the app is questionable... Just going to the Forum tab, when there is nothing to display, generates 102 requests and transfers about 4 MB! Whatever the connection speed is, it will take some time. . Then there is a HUGE list of 3rd parties involved on which you have no control: the same "empty" forum page sources code from 30 different sites -- only 2 of them controlled by Ultimaker (ultimaker.com and cloudfront) (and shall we talk about privacy ? ) . So it is not a big surprise to me that all this is sometimes on the slow side... Using a privacy filter for your browser (like uBblock Origin) makes things a bit better though.
  4. Note that if it has a green board it is an UMO, not an UMO+. Also it is normal that not all driver slots are populated -- You need 4: X/Y/Z/Extruder 1; the fifth is for Extruder 2 and normally not used. You absolutely need a cooler on the driver chip as they get very hot -- and as @tommyph1208 says you need to adjust the power with the trimpot (should be around 1.1/1.2 Amps)
  5. amedee

    Heated Bed Mort

    Vérifies aussi que tes connexions sont bonnes du coté du lit. Ton bornier est fort cramé et je soupçonne qu'il y aie un court-circuit à un moment donné. Ce serait bête de brûler le 2eme extrudeur...
  6. I don't like the way it is explained in the manual, it is a source of trouble... This is what I recommend: Screw the nozzle in the heater bloc, but NOT flush against the heater bloc -- leave approx. a 1mm gap Screw the brass pipe until it reaches the nozzle -- do not apply excessive force as it is fragile Now tight the nozzle against the brass pipe with a wrench. You don't have to over-tighten it, 0.5 Nm should be enough. At the end there still should be a gap between the nozzle and the block, if you are tightening against the bloc you will have leaks! Optional, but recommended: repeat the last operation when the hot-end is at temperature (don't burn yourself!) Your bloc will never leak again after that
  7. amedee

    Simplify 3D

    J'attend toujours qu'ils changent leur modèle de license
  8. Looks it is on the rails... Sorry for not answering faster, I am out of town these days. Having said that and referring to the github issue you filed, I am very surprised you cannot get your temperature under control with the PID auto-tune. The 3DSolex cartridges do not require any firmware tweaks to work properly.
  9. It is relatively straightforward, just connect to the 'temp' connector, as you can see on this picture: . Be careful, this picture is from my old 1.5.3 board, on recent boards the order of the pins is different (but it is written on the board)
  10. I always had to print a bit hotter on the UMO compared to the UMO+ I have no tool to calibrate accurately, so I don't know which one is wrong, but I did the same observation... As I had recently troubles with the UMO thermocouple amplifier I replaced the sensor by a PT100 and the E3D amplifier. I have now more consistant temperature reading between both printers.
  11. This is way too less, it is just like a short... I measured mine and I have a bit more than 10 Ohms, which correspond approximately to a 35W cartridge . Looks like you need a new heating cartridge (or there is a short somewhere in the cable)
  12. Actually @neotko made a new topic for the announcement... See here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/46596-zero-gravity-extruder-v10 It is on YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/zero-gravity-extruder-by-gudo-neotko-for-um2-and-umo-2 And my review video is there:
  13. Indeed, I see no reason to go back. I still have to adjust my slicer parameters to get everything dialed in properly, but in the worst case, the ZGE performs at least as well as the Bowden setup. If you would need to go back (e.g. in case you broke something like the stepper holder and need to reprint it), it is quite easy, you just need to remove the custom hot-end cover plate and re-install the Bowden. It is not practical to switch back and forth, but if you have to, it should not take more than 10 minutes.
  14. I don't think either, but it could be that the PSU is still able to provide enough current for the board (it does not need a lot), but gives up when you really draw power... Disconnect the 2 wires from the 'Extruder 1' connector on the top of the board and measure the resistance. I can't remember what it should be (I can check when at home) but if it is a short then it is definitely wrong.
  15. If it is an UMO then it is an 'old' printer -- I not saying this in a negative way, just a deduction that it is not a newly assembled printer, and that it should have worked in that past... So what did you changed recently? At first I am thinking of 2 problems: - Power supply as already mentioned - A short in the heater cartridge (or the cabling to it), so when you start heating it shorts the power supply and everything goes dark. I would disconnect the heater cartridge and measure the resistance to check for a short; also try to pre-heat with the cartridge disconnected: nothing should happen (except for a temp error after a while), but that would exclude a short on the board itself.
  16. En effet pas de re-cristalisation, mais PolyMaker recommande une ´re-cuisson ´ (annealing) du PC-Max pour diminuer les tensions dans la pièce dues au refroidissement rapide lors de l'extrusion. On améliore ainsi les propriétés mécaniques. Cela dit, je ne l'ai jamais fait, le résultat non recuit me satisfait pleinement et comme le mentionne @rigs je ne suis pas trop équipé pour exécuter un processus de manière consistante...
  17. Le polycarbonate (en particulier le PC-Max de PolyMaker)
  18. After the Neo-Sanding, we have de Neo-Ceram... Neoceram is a product of a Belgian company: Haerens. They are manufacturing in Belgium and Spain. I just found in Belgium VitreFlam which sells these locally for about 50 € tax & shipping included. They have International sites in some European countries, US and Canada. (I don't know them, never ordered there -- this is just FYI)
  19. @neotko I am not sure bed size does matter. UMO+ and UM2 have AFAIK the same bed size in in the firmware. I always set the real printable area in the slicer (Which doesn't mean we can't have something in the firmware -- in particular for the Z if you have a really low Z end-stop) X/Y end-stops makes definitely sense, we already have Z... I'll add that to the list (together with temp sensor 'calibration') -- ETA probably not before end September...
  20. Not tested, but the one for the Duet3d might work... https://www.duet3d.com/DuetAddons/PT100_DaughterBoard Won't be cheaper... Ultimaker publishes the schematics so you can make your own...
  21. amedee

    Problème plateau

    Si tu as un faux contact avec les mouvements du plateau tu peux avoir une brève interruption de la connection qui se traduit par une lecture de température aberrante et qui va provoquer l'erreur...
  22. Le NinjaFlex a une très bonne liaison inter-couches qui le rend bien étanche. J'ai imprimé des coudes pour l'évacuation d'eau de ma caravane il y a bien deux ans et je n'ai pas constaté de fuites...
  23. amedee

    Problème plateau

    Le + est entre parenthèses pour dire que c'est bon avec et sans (ça doit être la même référence dans la BOM) Mais je suis aussi convaincu que ça vient du câblage...
×
×
  • Create New...