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amedee

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Everything posted by amedee

  1. The UMO amplifier is designed for a thermocouple. For an RTD (PT100) you really need the E3D amplifier.
  2. Firmware is here: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu Noise is strange, never seen that...
  3. Yes, this is normal. If you use my firmware (bultimaker.eu) you can use the ´kick start' option to have a full speed pulse at start. You can also set the lower limit for the fan, so that 1% will give you the slowest rpm for your fan.
  4. Indeed, the transistor is most probably fried. A BD681 should work, it has the same specs just accepting higher voltage. (Apologies for the short answer, I am out of town until next week)
  5. Any reseller will be able to get you a board, but it is a ´non catalog item' (or whatever they call it), so it will not appear on their web shop, you will need to ask. I am confident it is just the transistor though...
  6. Actually official UMO 1.5.x boards are not that expensive (about 50 euros), and they seem indestructible -- I keep soldering on my old 1.5.3 and it still works.
  7. Waarschijnlijk is de sensor kabeltje los (ofwel kapot, maar het gaat niet zomaar kapot...)
  8. Yes, that's my experience as well, just weird that the manufacturer recommends 195°C@0.1mm for strong prints...
  9. No, not after boiling... if you apply stress on the parts they will easily break on the layers; the layer bonding is not that great.
  10. Sur une UM2 je mettrais plutôt la version de @gudo avec des ventilos radiaux
  11. Le câblage est fait à l'arrache, je voulais le voir en action Sinon sur l'UMO il y a un effet de bord plutôt intéressant: l'imprimante est beaucoup plus silencieuse! (Avec l'extrudeur d'origine la structure en bois de l'UMO fait caisson de résonance ce qui fait que l'UMO est relativement bruyante comparé à une UM2)
  12. I have now printed a couple of items in BioFila PlaTec. The result is very nice and it is super easy to print. I have some concerns though with layer bonding. Like @ultiarjan mentioned it delaminates easily, in particular when you follow the recommendations (0.1 layers @ 195°C). I get better results printing a bit hotter and avoiding fan when not necessary. Anybody else facing delamination? (Only thing I found is this thread on the Prusa forum which is not conclusive...)
  13. It's not about being right or wrong -- everybody is in a different situation and can evaluate what is right for him Re. the axes, the UM2 has the X/Y axes swapped, using different side blocks which require longer rods. In a single head setup this is not that important, the difference is just a slightly bigger print area. But in a Mark2 configuration keeping the UMO setup would imply a complete redesign of the docking system, and the dock itself will be in the way for the UMO sideblocks...
  14. Ayé, j'ai testé le mien!
  15. Yes I appreciate that, everybody has another angle -- here is mine: Starting from a 'standard' UMO(+), you need 2 UM2+ hot ends, 2 extruders, new X/Y axes, ... which is already a lot of money. If I add to that the time to develop a new firmware, plus the other mods to retrofit the Mark2 to the UMO it makes the addition higher again On the other hand, we start to see more and more affordable UM2+ on the second hand market. The upgrade path is easier and well tested, and if I sell one of my UMOs the total price would not be much different Now if I find a "sponsor" for the hardware, I might be motivated in making the firmware for the UMO, but that's unlikely to happen 8)
  16. For the small hot end fan, it is an on/off fan. On UM2 it is always on unless you have a recent 2.1.x board which powers off the fan when the hot end is cold. On the UMO 1.5.x it will be always on (I plan to add a small board to drive the hot end fan, but that won't be very soon as I don't have too much free time these days). So basically, just route either 12 or 24v to your fan and you will be good. For the 24v mod, the regulator is the key part. The original linear regulator won't do the job (even at 19v on the old boards it can't power the controller, I actually made this mod before going to 24v!) Mark2: I love this project... but I found that it is a relative expensive upgrade starting from an UMO, and I would rather consider buying a used UM2 for that. As you say, the main issue will be the firmware and I have no plan to mod the UMO firmware for that. @neotko is working on a UMO++Mark2 mod, but using another board/firmware for that (the Duet3d)...
  17. Just lower the Z-home switch! Put some tension in the springs, then move the build plate manually against the nozzle and finally lower the switch until it clicks. That will give you a good start to fine tune with the springs afterwards.
  18. Of course I am right But I have no merrit, it's written on the board (I saw that when I installed the HBK) There are a couple of errors on the reprap wiki, they mainly copy/pasted between revisions, not noticing the changes...
  19. For the PT100 it is easy, you have all you need on the board temp pins, and no pull-up needed. See this picture: (Be careful, this is an old 1.5.3 board, on the 1.5.7 Sig and Gnd are swapped)
  20. No, everything gets 24v instead of 19v... Depending on your board version, the electronics fan will go faster (understand: more noise), and the hot end fan will probably die as it is a 12v fan already overpowered with 19v. Motors will get 24v as well, which is ok, your heating cartridge will warm up faster. But all in all you should be good
  21. To run the UMO in 24V, you will find multiple posts on the forum -- here is mine, but there are others. - You need to replace the original 12v linear converter by a switching step-down regulator. I use a TRACO TSR 1-24120, RECOM R-78C12-1.0 are popular as well - You then can route the 12v to the vin of the Arduino, so it will powered by the board and no more by the USB (you can see the green wire on my board in my other post) - Optional (not really linked to 24v upgrade): you can remove the mosfet switching USB power on the Arduino board to avoid USB passing the 5V to the board (if you don't do that, the thermocouple amp is always on when the USB is connected). Not a problem per say, I just didn't like that as I have a Raspberry Pi always connected. On 1.5.3 boards, the electronics fan is 12v (using the regulator), so going to 24v won't change anything. (Note that this is not the case on 1.5.7 boards!!!) Hot-end will get 24v and heat faster; no problem with any other component except the hot-end fan which is originally 12v running at 19v, so that one needs to be changed. If you are going to the UM2 hot end, it is not an issue, you just wire the 2 12v fans in series. Remains the small 5v fan... The only available 5v source is the one from the Arduino which is only there for the electronics. I would replace that fan with a 12v or a 24v fan, I think this is the easiest.
  22. Swapping the axis rods on UMO is not straightforward as you typically need longer axis, change you home switches, etc... The easier path is to rotate the head and change the top -- see Erik's top. From a firmware standpoint, you only need to change the temp sensor to PT100. Side note: are you still running your 1.5.3 board in its original state (19v with probably USB power for the controller) or is it already hacked? If it is still original, you should consider going to 24v which is better for the UM2 hot end...
  23. Pour UMO, c'est aussi dispo avec mon firmware...
  24. Cela reste du matériel grand public. A température ambiante, je n'ai pas la même mesure sur mes différentes imprimantes, voir pas la même entre le lit et la buse... Le PID est responsable de la stabilisation de la température, en temps que tel il ne joue pas sur la précision de la lecture.
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