amedee

Le polycarbonate (en particulier le PC-Max de PolyMaker)

After the Neo-Sanding, we have de Neo-Ceram... Neoceram is a product of a Belgian company: Haerens. They are manufacturing in Belgium and Spain. I just found in Belgium VitreFlam which sells these locally for about 50 € tax & shipping included. They have International sites in some European countries, US and Canada. (I don't know them, never ordered there -- this is just FYI)

@neotko I am not sure bed size does matter. UMO+ and UM2 have AFAIK the same bed size in in the firmware. I always set the real printable area in the slicer (Which doesn't mean we can't have something in the firmware -- in particular for the Z if you have a really low Z end-stop) X/Y end-stops makes definitely sense, we already have Z... I'll add that to the list (together with temp sensor 'calibration') -- ETA probably not before end September...

Not tested, but the one for the Duet3d might work... https://www.duet3d.com/DuetAddons/PT100_DaughterBoard Won't be cheaper... Ultimaker publishes the schematics so you can make your own...

Si tu as un faux contact avec les mouvements du plateau tu peux avoir une brève interruption de la connection qui se traduit par une lecture de température aberrante et qui va provoquer l'erreur...

For math teachers I would recommend OpenSCAD!

Le NinjaFlex a une très bonne liaison inter-couches qui le rend bien étanche. J'ai imprimé des coudes pour l'évacuation d'eau de ma caravane il y a bien deux ans et je n'ai pas constaté de fuites...

Le + est entre parenthèses pour dire que c'est bon avec et sans (ça doit être la même référence dans la BOM) Mais je suis aussi convaincu que ça vient du câblage...

The UMO amplifier is designed for a thermocouple. For an RTD (PT100) you really need the E3D amplifier.

Firmware is here: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu Noise is strange, never seen that...

Yes, this is normal. If you use my firmware (bultimaker.eu) you can use the ´kick start' option to have a full speed pulse at start. You can also set the lower limit for the fan, so that 1% will give you the slowest rpm for your fan.

Indeed, the transistor is most probably fried. A BD681 should work, it has the same specs just accepting higher voltage. (Apologies for the short answer, I am out of town until next week)

Any reseller will be able to get you a board, but it is a ´non catalog item' (or whatever they call it), so it will not appear on their web shop, you will need to ask. I am confident it is just the transistor though...

Actually official UMO 1.5.x boards are not that expensive (about 50 euros), and they seem indestructible -- I keep soldering on my old 1.5.3 and it still works.

Waarschijnlijk is de sensor kabeltje los (ofwel kapot, maar het gaat niet zomaar kapot...)

Yes, that's my experience as well, just weird that the manufacturer recommends 195°C@0.1mm for strong prints...

No, not after boiling... if you apply stress on the parts they will easily break on the layers; the layer bonding is not that great.

Sur une UM2 je mettrais plutôt la version de @gudo avec des ventilos radiaux

Le câblage est fait à l'arrache, je voulais le voir en action Sinon sur l'UMO il y a un effet de bord plutôt intéressant: l'imprimante est beaucoup plus silencieuse! (Avec l'extrudeur d'origine la structure en bois de l'UMO fait caisson de résonance ce qui fait que l'UMO est relativement bruyante comparé à une UM2)

I have now printed a couple of items in BioFila PlaTec. The result is very nice and it is super easy to print. I have some concerns though with layer bonding. Like @ultiarjan mentioned it delaminates easily, in particular when you follow the recommendations (0.1 layers @ 195°C). I get better results printing a bit hotter and avoiding fan when not necessary. Anybody else facing delamination? (Only thing I found is this thread on the Prusa forum which is not conclusive...)

It's not about being right or wrong -- everybody is in a different situation and can evaluate what is right for him Re. the axes, the UM2 has the X/Y axes swapped, using different side blocks which require longer rods. In a single head setup this is not that important, the difference is just a slightly bigger print area. But in a Mark2 configuration keeping the UMO setup would imply a complete redesign of the docking system, and the dock itself will be in the way for the UMO sideblocks...

Ayé, j'ai testé le mien!

Yes I appreciate that, everybody has another angle -- here is mine: Starting from a 'standard' UMO(+), you need 2 UM2+ hot ends, 2 extruders, new X/Y axes, ... which is already a lot of money. If I add to that the time to develop a new firmware, plus the other mods to retrofit the Mark2 to the UMO it makes the addition higher again On the other hand, we start to see more and more affordable UM2+ on the second hand market. The upgrade path is easier and well tested, and if I sell one of my UMOs the total price would not be much different Now if I find a "sponsor" for the hardware, I might be motivated in making the firmware for the UMO, but that's unlikely to happen 8)

For the small hot end fan, it is an on/off fan. On UM2 it is always on unless you have a recent 2.1.x board which powers off the fan when the hot end is cold. On the UMO 1.5.x it will be always on (I plan to add a small board to drive the hot end fan, but that won't be very soon as I don't have too much free time these days). So basically, just route either 12 or 24v to your fan and you will be good. For the 24v mod, the regulator is the key part. The original linear regulator won't do the job (even at 19v on the old boards it can't power the controller, I actually made this mod before going to 24v!) Mark2: I love this project... but I found that it is a relative expensive upgrade starting from an UMO, and I would rather consider buying a used UM2 for that. As you say, the main issue will be the firmware and I have no plan to mod the UMO firmware for that. @neotko is working on a UMO++Mark2 mod, but using another board/firmware for that (the Duet3d)...

Just lower the Z-home switch! Put some tension in the springs, then move the build plate manually against the nozzle and finally lower the switch until it clicks. That will give you a good start to fine tune with the springs afterwards.