michal-misha-kriukow

Someone mentioned sugru, I'm currently using a sugru "hot end warmer". I just used some vegetable oil on hotels as the release agent, the sock came off clean afterwards. Even though they say it's only stable up to 180, I've tried 260 and it's still fine. Became a bit brittle inside but still useable.

i only print PLA, and from my experiences too much air never hurt- unless you think the turbulent airflow will actually introduce turbulances in laid plastic?

it works well, but i'm using a super loud centrifugal fan, also my whole hotend setup is quite heavy, i was thinking of completely stripping it, UBIS style, and mounting 1 or 2 crossflow fans on the side instead. This might allow me to speed up the prints

hey guys, how have your experiences been after a while of using crossflow? I see that Duesentrieb experienced one side of the print looking worse then the other. Did you use the UBIS style setup, or maybe there's much blocking the airflow? I'm currently running a giant centrifugal fan hooked up to flexible hoses, delivering the air to the nozzle area, but thinking of switching to crossflow. What about 2 crossflow fans, installed across the platform?

Hey there, im currently using a huhe radial fan mounted on the side and 1.5cm diameter tubing (x2),with decent results but thinking of trying your setup. Does it still hold up after 2 years or did you do any improvements? I also wonder about what someoone has already asked- does the other side of the print come out just as good as the side directly facing the fan? Thx

It's starting to look to me that all our issues are an effect of unadjusted filament pressure, result of the lag between plastic being pushed by the extruder and what comes out of the hot end. It's also amplified by the bowden setup. So basically, due to ooze, there's too much extrusion during the slowdown, and then not enough during acceleration, causing the nozzle to pull. Makerbot sailfish firmware is adjusting this with JKN algorithm. Marlin's got something called extruder advance, but as far as i know it's not working that well (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,368834) There's a guy who developed a gcode post processing script, you can read more here: http://basdebruijn.com/2014/05/machinekit-and-additive-manufacturing/ http://basdebruijn.com/2014/09/velocity-extruding-revisited/ EDIT: i posted this before reading your latest post. Are you positive it's a different issue? Can it be that it's the same cause, only more visible on the overhang corners?

here's an interesting way skeinforge plugin "fillet" is tacking the issue http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/wiki/index.php/Skeinforge_Fillet

I suppose in my case it's easier to reverse airflow direction- I got a massive centrifugal blower installed on the side of the printer, which is hooked up to the hot end shroud by 2 x 20mm in diameter flexible hoses. One thing I might try is hook up a small vacuum cleaner to those hoses and see what happens

Resurectign the thread have you guys tried : -increasing XY jerk speed and acceleration, so the amount of extruded plastic is lower on corners. -increase extrusion width -use duplicate outlines (printing outside perimeters at half layer heigh), so overhang has more existing mass to adhere too and heat dissipates quicker -add supports, not to prevent sagging, but so the overhang has something to stick to other then the nozzle. It would also help dissipate the heat. -reversing the fan, so it sucks rather then blows- i speculate it will have similar effect as cooling from beneath.

Hey guys, FYI, I bought a cheap aquarium blower for 25$ attached 2 silicone tubes , made flattened endings from aluminium tape and mounted them about 1 cm away from the nozzle, on both sides. Works like a charm. I also got 2 small centrifugal fans which i'll be testing now. After artificially narrowing the exhaust, the air output is comparable to aquarium pump, but a bit stronger and more even - the aquarium pump literally sends air in mini blasts.