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aroth

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  1. Time for one more round of necromancy. I just updated my UM2 firmware for the first time ever, after installing Cura 2.5.0 and having a print fail 3 times in a row at exactly the same spot. I thought that maybe there was some issue between the new Cura and the old firware version, so went ahead and updated the UM2 (and seems I may be right, as the print is just finishing up now). Like others in this thread, I'm using Venkel's fan mount, and had the printer set to run the fans at 100% after the initial layer. The first print I tried after updating the firmware failed almost immediately
  2. In my experience even the new ones will deform under normal usage. Though judging from Dreamworker's photo I'd say his coupler is barely deformed at all. Mine end up looking far worse: Though in any case, I think a deformed teflon part is a reparable issue. And probably also the most common problem to occur with long-term usage. I was recently able to get a nearly-crippled (mostly due to problems with the teflon bit) printer back to like-new better-than-new performance by doing: Remove the filament from the printer. Disassemble the print-head and the entire hot-end except for t
  3. To adjust the left and right corners, turn the screws underneath the build plate, not the button on the front of the Ultimaker2. I'll try to say that in French: ----- Pour faire l'ajustement des coins gauche et droit, il faut tourner les vis au dessous du plateau, pas le bouton rotatif en face de la Ultimaker2.
  4. Yes, it's very nuanced. In general 20% infill will give you a part that feels quite solid. I usually print around 10-15% (when I can't get away with 0%). The amount of infill you specify will generally have a linear effect on your print duration; 50% infill should take half as long as 100%, and 20% should take one fifth as long, etc.. You can also have the printer do infill at a different/faster rate than the rest of the part. I usually set a 75mm/sec infill speed, with the overall print speed set to 50mm/sec or less. Layer height also has a linear effect on print duration, such that a p
  5. Have you tried decreasing your layer thickness or increasing your top/bottom thickness? You're only giving it 3 layers of material to work with there. If you've got good internal supports/lots of infill that might be okay, but I generally find I need at least 5-6 layers (and preferably more) to get a good looking top surface when printing over a hollow portion of a part. What usually happens is that the first layer will have some gaps/issues/broken bridges, and then those gradually get corrected on subsequent layers.
  6. It's difficult to take good pictures of the printer's surroundings when the printer is still on.
  7. Yes, I think you're right. I gave it a second try, and this time I watched as it printed the skirt and added some extra glue in each spot that it placed a support. Worked better: Though I do think that Cura should be more clever when it issues a 'G0'/travel command and either 1) route the printhead path around parts of the object that are in the current layer as opposed to straight through them, or 2) lower the buildplate slightly before issuing the G0 and then raise it back after the travel completes.
  8. If you're already leveled, you should be able to just click through everything except step 1 (or 4) of the leveling wizard (where you move the entire buildplate vertically). Just move the plate to the right height, don't touch any screws, and you should be set. You probably have to do this regardless since I assume that the Z-offset from your previous level would have been lost when you reset the printer anyways. Not sure about the filament loading, but I'd think probably you can just cancel out of that step when you get there? If not it seems like anyone who happens to reset the printer s
  9. Successful 40 hour print (0.12mm layer height, 35mm/sec shell speed, 75mm/sec infill speed, 10% infill because I needed something to support the bottom of the eye sockets otherwise would have done completely hollow): Worked on the second attempt, after I installed my super high-tech solution to the 'dust on the filament can clog the nozzle' problem:
  10. Probably better tools already exist for this, but here's a web-based tool for inspecting the GCode generated by Cura: http://jsfiddle.net/h3wbf9g4/8/ It'll let you view individual layers (extrusion is green, travel is blue, and retractions are red) and also choose a specific layer/set of layers to export (for instance, if you want to http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6802-2-ways-to-resume-print-from-last-layer/).
  11. I get comparable results with a damp paper towel. Clean glass gives more adhesion than you need, most of the time: Though I still put a bit of glue under any areas that I'm particularly concerned about (such as corners, or support structures or similar detached 'islands' that exist at the start of a print).
  12. Anytime in the near future? No. Eventually? Yes. I see it as similar to the difference between color laser printers and traditional inkjet printers 15-20 years ago. One offered significantly better performance and precision than the other, but also tended to cost substantially more to purchase and operate (thousands of dollars versus hundreds). Fast forward to today, and you can get a good color laser printer for not significantly more than the price of a good inkjet printer. I expect 3d printing to go the same route. From a purely theoretical standpoint, I think there's
  13. I second that recommendation. Though I'd say fan shroud is fine, what's under-designed is the nozzle placement. What I think Ultimaker should have done is this: ...instead of this: Then there'd be symmetrical cooling with the stock fan shroud in both single- and dual-extruder setups. I'm sure that change would cascade through all of the printhead parts, however, and probably also have some implications for Cura.
  14. I'd also suggest slowing the printer down when it resumes, to make it more likely that the first new layer will adhere to the existing part. After the first few layers are down, it should be okay to turn the speed back up. And is there any way to compensate if the new layers are shifted out of position when the print resumes? I was having a nice and successful 40 hour print: ...up until this thing (I think it's a piece of fur from the cat) managed to make it all the way to the nozzle and then decide that it wasn't going to go any further: I managed to track down the right layer to
  15. Yes, the layers looked okay in Cura.
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