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korneel

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Everything posted by korneel

  1. i'll agree that there are more things that could go wrong but i definitely disagree with the reliability.. running 5 UM3s compared to running 5 UM2s is a total breeze.. the UM3 is much more reliable in my experience.. What kind of issues do you have on the UM2 ? issues I had.. i replaced them all with UM3.. ;-) so i thought about it and i'm not going to list them most of them are solved with the UM2+.. for me, the biggest thing is the replaceable print heads.. any issue.. at all... heater, temp sensor, nozzle, heater block.. whatever.. replace it under a minute.. no downtime.. well worth it
  2. i'll agree that there are more things that could go wrong but i definitely disagree with the reliability.. running 5 UM3s compared to running 5 UM2s is a total breeze.. the UM3 is much more reliable in my experience..
  3. did you try doing a factory reset? i tested the new firmware on 2 of my extendeds and no problem..
  4. so back to your original question yes i am using the bondtech extruders on 3 of my 5 printers.. all um3. I certainly see advantages! the biggest one for me is that because i mounted the bondtech feeders on the backside top, i can use the large spools on the UM3 extended.. i can also see that they provide much more pressure and i can work better with flexible materials. to me it also seems the material retract at the end of the print is a bit cleaner.. as far as, should you buy them for the UM3? I think in very specific scenarios they come in handy. I am happy wiuth them on the 3 printers that have them, but I won't be upgrading the other 2..
  5. @daid ; send me a message if you need more info this is happening on all my printers after i switched to 3.6
  6. i don't really see the big problem here.. I have never hidden behind nicknames and people will find it easy to discover I work for a company that loves patents.. for us, while we embrace open source (largest contributor to open source) we feel that if you have smart people working for you, their efforts should be protected against abuse and people should get the recognition. filing a patent is a great way of doing that. Ultimaker is doing the exact same thing. they did something smart and they filed a patent. good for them. in the end, this simply means that as soon as someone infringes on that patent, and infringement does mean nefarious intentions, Ultimaker has the option to take action against that. If someone were to take action against Ultimaker for certain technologies, Ultimaker has also protected and secured the work that their fabulous R&D department does. note that "Enforcement of patents is solely at the patent holder's discretion.". straight quote. I've been given an opportunity to see a lot of the weird stuff that other people have done with Ultimaker's stuff and they have let so much slide where they could have taken action.. I applaud the patenting. good job, great to get recognition for a job well done. Continue being the company that is proud of their products and stands behind their community. as long as Ultimaker works with a mentality of "don't be a dick" all will be well and the patents will simply help both Ultimaker as well as the community along the way.
  7. well, what is the material you print with, which slicer do you use, and which printer do you use?
  8. try running this at 245 if you have an UM2+.. you'll get better results.. only use fan with NGEN during overhangs..
  9. @lepaul; if you have issues with strength with NGEN, try printing warmer... what temp are you using now?
  10. let us know.. I have not had great experiences with esun..
  11. I had the same issue.. I tried the PVA from ICE.. highly recommended.
  12. I think when redesigning it there are 2 things to do; 1) have an adapter to raise the spool about 5 cm. the standard um3 has dropped the spool holder by about 5 cm which is enough to prevent the large spools to fit.. so that is no 1. 2)have an extension to have both the large spools as well as the small spools. that being said; i found this a real issue.. but now after a couple of months i don't see this as an issue anymore.. i just use the extended um3 that has the spool holder high enough for the larger spools i use. i have no interest to use a large spool together with a smaller spool... this would either mean a super hugo dual color print, as in 20+ days.. or it would be with PVA and the only real PLA i've found to be working perfectly with the PLA is ultimaker PLA which does not come in high spools.. so I don't think I'll actually be using the larger spool holder...
  13. wil je nog een foto plaatsen van de bowden tube van feeder 1? die ziet er super geknakt uit..
  14. Hi; out of experience I can tell you.. it's almost impossible to block the PVA core as long as you are using Cura and the latest firmware.. can you test the following for me; can you please remove all material from your printer. take out the bb core, and take some pictures to show us. i'd love to see the nozzle. then reinsert the BB core. now cut off about 50 cm of the PVA material. use the "load" option in the firmware to load the PVA filament in feeder 2. at a certain point, it will say press the button once you see filament coming out. take a picture as soon as the first bits of filament come out and just let it flow for about 5 to 10 minutes. a nice heap will start on the glassplate. take some pictures. we can work from there
  15. wow. how the hell did that happen? that takes some serious force to break it.. just checked all of my printers, none of them have this.. was this like that when you got it? how did it happen? I'm not sure how or when, this is my third replacement printer in less than a week. Sounds like you've been really lucky with yours. 3DGBIRE checked this one before they sent it out to make sure it had none of the other problems the first two had. To be fair to them it hasn't. I found this last night while I was setting up to profile some PETG. I did check it over when I got this one two days ago and I never noticed it then. I've read that they can be over stressed on assembly or damaged in the post. It looks like more production/assembly problems to me. I won't hear from 3DBGIRE until Monday, so it looks like I've got the weekend to think about where to go with this now. It's good to hear there are people out there that are not having problems. I'm not sure if a fourth one is on the cards, the customer service is great, but from what I've seen this last week it needs to be. so it was probably like this when you got it? it's just that that's an injection molded piece. the fact that it broke along that line is just plain weird.. that requires some really high force..
  16. wow. how the hell did that happen? that takes some serious force to break it.. just checked all of my printers, none of them have this.. was this like that when you got it? how did it happen?
  17. i don't think so.. the glue stick should be sufficient.
  18. awesome! so far, I've had the best results with A grade filament, such as Ultimaker filament, but also great experiences with ICE filament and ofcourse Colorfabb
  19. not really a european thing.. i am betting on no.
  20. so.. no.. but if you look at the um3 specs: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-3/specifications it is clearly listed what is and what is not supported..
  21. @SandervG : I'm at 5 currently yeah, ABS and PVA is a no go for me.. @limburgmetaal , we discussed this over PM but perhaps for public consumption; 1)stick with Ultimaker Original FIlaments for this. I did try the PLA from ICe Filaments and that worked well. the combination PVA/PLA with other brands, such as PLA-PHA from Colorfabb did not work with PVA. so i would recommend sticking with original Ultimaker PVA + PLA for the best results. I just don;'t see PVA + ABS working. the temperature difference is massive... the stickyness is an issue with PVA.. yeah, just don't see that working too well.. cloth over the top should not be necessary.. iw ould recommend trying with PLA and PVA.. ABS is one opf the hardest materials to print with. only use it if really needed. in most cases PLA is better, or Nylon when high strength is needed..
  22. yeah. PVA and ABS is not going to work.. not only don't they really stick to eachother, but ABS needs minimal fan, PVA a lot.. ABS needs a very strong adhesion to not warp.. PVA+ Nylon or PVA + PLA will work. if it needs to be strong, use PVA + Nylon.. what are you trying to print? does it require ABS? ABS + PVA should simply not be done.
  23. what combination are you using? PLA and PVA?
  24. It's on github..... the BOM. Resellers also have a spare part list in PDF with photo's of all parts, that's indeed a bit easier. The main issue is there is no part number (afaik) for just the pre-assembled feeder. i disagree. the BOM is the bill of material. that is only a list of "hey you need al this stuff". a spare parts list is a list that shows pictures of the stuff you need and has a set of stuff, together with the order number that Ultimaker uses as well. so you need a complete feeder? there is a spare part for that! which includes a number that you give your reseller, and they can order it directly using that number. it would include all the seperate components that make up the feeder
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