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macua85

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Everything posted by macua85

  1. Hey guys, The heated bed has been working perfectly earlier, now it won't stop heating at the set temperature, it just keeps going. Any ideas as to what is wrong? Its brand new by the way. More info, the bed is heating even when I haven't hit print. Something has gone seriously wrong. I haven't changed anything. I have to unplug heated bed to get it to stop. Ok last bit of info, with printer turned off...plug power to HBK in, and the bed starts heating up immediately. Reinstalled firmware, no different still does the same thing. I'm puzzled and disappointed, and not sure what to do! Thanks,
  2. In the previous version of cura, I could edit the gcode and put T1 in place of T0 to use the second extruder for a print. However it seems this is no longer in the gcode: M190 S62.000000 M109 S241.000000 ;Sliced at: Thu 12-02-2015 21:03:27 ;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 1.2 Fill: 15 ;Print time: 1 hour 1 minutes ;Filament used: 1.157m 9.0g ;Filament cost: 0.34 / 0.49 ;M190 S62 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S241 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... ;Layer count: 168 ;LAYER:0 M107 G0 F9000 X117.939 Y58.425 Z0.300 G0 X118.234 Y58.425 ;TYPE:SKIRT Which bit do I change now to print from second extruder? Thanks
  3. Wow, 3d printing has come on a bit since I last logged in a few months ago! Still leading the field foehnstrum i see! Great work
  4. Hi guys, I ordered an UMO, but in the light of the new product announcement, have made some enquiries with UM to change the order to a UM+. I originally ordered the dual extruder kit, this being the main driver to get a UMO. So the question is, will the dual kit fit the UMO+? As I understand, a separate power supply would be needed, as the inbuilt one can't drive two heated heads and the bed. So, the options I guess are to either disconnect the heated bed, install a relay and give it a second power supply....OR, and this is preferable if possible....Can I run a second power supply in parallel, at the same voltage to increase the current available to the UMO+? Can the board handle heating two heads and the bed if it has sufficient power? If i had to go with option 1, would i have to make custom firmware, or would the heated bed option in cura still work? Would the wiring be the same as wiring an after market heated bed in terms of the relay? As it happens, I have already bought an after market HBK, so have the relay and PSU to hand. Thanks for any advice.
  5. Have you guys seen this: http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Could be a nice package for easy use with this changer system. Maybe swap for a pancake motor and would be sufficient? What do you think?
  6. Foehnsturm, any more updates on your machine?
  7. It does seem here that you are trying to reinvent the wheel. The dual head changer system removes the second nozzle as a concern, and even takes care of any oozing issues as it oozes in the corner rather than on the print. Not sure why you would go through with this complex design, unless its just for the challenge,then go for it! We all like seeing new ideas here.
  8. macua85

    Is the forum dying?

    I have been on this forum for a while now, not sure when I joined but must be over a year ago. Up until the new forum was released, it was very active. Plenty of new topics and new replies to keep me busy in the mornings. However now, it seems its a day or two between having much to read. Coffee corner for example, and the 'a coffee between friends' thread was always at the top, with the usual contributors having a natter...I guess they have taken a back seat now. So, is it dying? What are the stats telling you Sander? Do you analyse them? Its a shame, and hopefully only short lived. Time will tell though I guess.
  9. Cheers for the rod info neotko. Bearwood, yea i use robotdigg a lot as he is in China, and as I am at the moment, it makes shipping so cheap. I've just got my latest delivery...all the parts to make the 'mostly printed CNC machine'. I plan to use my plasma cutter torch with it. Should be an interesting project! Regarding the rods, it definitely pays to get from a reliable source off the bat, i'll upgrade to misumi in due course, once i've moved back.
  10. Very impressive prints there. Whats the next developments on this project for you foehnsturm? Have ultimaker given you a call yet to discuss a partnership!?
  11. I've just realised how out of true my rods are on my Chinese parts printer. I can see the twister blocks wobbling up and down on all axis when I move the print head. The prints all look good, but I'm assuming this affects the dimensional accuracy. So, don't buy rods from China! @neotko, how are the misumi rods? Do you have a link? Thanks
  12. Hey guys, I keep getting this rough surface on this part, always in the same places. Printed with colorfabb XT black on UMO at 250 degree. Thanks for any tips
  13. macua85

    Build Plates

    I've got the same problem with the UM glass. I ordered a new one, but its got the same problem. Its weird, my Chinese heated bed glass on the other printer doesn't suffer from the same issue.
  14. macua85

    Parts of the print pulled out or in

    Have you checked the belts (short belts) to make sure they are sufficiently tight? Also checked the pulleys to make sure they are nice and tight?
  15. have to be honest, they didn't get tighter with oil. They were tight without though. Might just be that they needed wearing in....damn should have given them more time!
  16. I'm running those bushes on my Chinese parts built printer. No problem with them so far. They run smooth. One thing to note is that if you oil the shafts, the graphite in the bushes makes them turn black. No idea if you're not supposed to oil them, but I have, and they work fine. They are larger OD than ultimaker bearings though, 12mm. I modified the twister blocks on youmagine to take them.
  17. Labern, I disagree there. I've printed ninjaflex with great results. I printed pretty hot ~240, and slow. Also run the filament through an oil soaked sponge to lube it up for the bowden. It's an impressive filament.
  18. Quality is looking great, magnets seem to be holding the head well at those speeds too. Are you still using the same 2 magnet setup?
  19. Its looking great. How much did you pay for the rails. I've found somewhere here in shanghai that sells 20mm rail, circa 700mm, 2 carriages for £25...but not sure if thats a good price. Any more test prints to show? Hows the dual head system coming along?
  20. The first link is for a UMO board anyway. I've not had a UM2 board from robotdigg, but everything else i've had off of them has been spot on with not problems. They also sell power adapters I think. Again, I have cheap Chinese power adapters for my second UMO, and not had an issue with them thus far. One of them is as you picked out originally. I'm going to print a fan enclosure for it at some point, but not got around to it yet.
  21. I have to say my opinion here differs a little to Neotko. I have also made a printer from Chinese parts, and the quality of prints is on par with my genuine ultimaker, and is infact more reliable at the moment! In fact, I had a problem with the OEM parts I got for it and went back to Chinese parts (peek and ptfe)! I am using a similar controller I think, but it's a much more modern version of the UM board, using SMD components with multiple fan out ports https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.11.mkiols&id=44460551886&ns=1&abbucket=7#detail. Yes, that board only costs 10 euros! The heated bed kit I got from ebay when a chap was making them for the UMO, has a SSR system. I got a UM2 Z platform, bearings and z screw/motor to make it the same as my UMO with HBK, works just as well and accurately, with 3 point levelling (after a mod or two). Maybe I just got lucky with the suppliers I chose to use. I get a lot from this guy: http://robotdigg.com , never had a problem with any parts from there. I really didn't expect the printer to work as well as it does, but, I don't know how long it will go on working for!
  22. macua85

    Wobbly/lopsided UM2 Frame

    Although I have a UMO, I think the construction is similar. I've also read about people doing exactly what you suggested...loosen all of the frame screws off, press down from the top to square things up and get it level, then retighten everything. Simples!
  23. Can anyone read Chinese here?! I found this on taobao, no idea what the specs are though. However I thought the laser on a lead was an interesting feature, would make mounting one super easy: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.20141002.3.MQAJmZ&scm=1007.10009.12973.100200300000004&id=521044932399&pvid=e818590a-e77f-4224-af08-56f6844349ce
  24. Im also going to keep an eye on this, once again foehnsturm is leading the innovations! I could event go back to e3d perhaps (seems direct drive 3mm works way better than Bowden 3mm).
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