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macua85

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Everything posted by macua85

  1. Wow, 3d printing has come on a bit since I last logged in a few months ago! Still leading the field foehnstrum i see! Great work
  2. Have you guys seen this: http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Could be a nice package for easy use with this changer system. Maybe swap for a pancake motor and would be sufficient? What do you think?
  3. It does seem here that you are trying to reinvent the wheel. The dual head changer system removes the second nozzle as a concern, and even takes care of any oozing issues as it oozes in the corner rather than on the print. Not sure why you would go through with this complex design, unless its just for the challenge,then go for it! We all like seeing new ideas here.
  4. Cheers for the rod info neotko. Bearwood, yea i use robotdigg a lot as he is in China, and as I am at the moment, it makes shipping so cheap. I've just got my latest delivery...all the parts to make the 'mostly printed CNC machine'. I plan to use my plasma cutter torch with it. Should be an interesting project! Regarding the rods, it definitely pays to get from a reliable source off the bat, i'll upgrade to misumi in due course, once i've moved back.
  5. Very impressive prints there. Whats the next developments on this project for you foehnsturm? Have ultimaker given you a call yet to discuss a partnership!?
  6. I've just realised how out of true my rods are on my Chinese parts printer. I can see the twister blocks wobbling up and down on all axis when I move the print head. The prints all look good, but I'm assuming this affects the dimensional accuracy. So, don't buy rods from China! @neotko, how are the misumi rods? Do you have a link? Thanks
  7. Hey guys, I keep getting this rough surface on this part, always in the same places. Printed with colorfabb XT black on UMO at 250 degree. Thanks for any tips
  8. I've got the same problem with the UM glass. I ordered a new one, but its got the same problem. Its weird, my Chinese heated bed glass on the other printer doesn't suffer from the same issue.
  9. Have you checked the belts (short belts) to make sure they are sufficiently tight? Also checked the pulleys to make sure they are nice and tight?
  10. have to be honest, they didn't get tighter with oil. They were tight without though. Might just be that they needed wearing in....damn should have given them more time!
  11. I'm running those bushes on my Chinese parts built printer. No problem with them so far. They run smooth. One thing to note is that if you oil the shafts, the graphite in the bushes makes them turn black. No idea if you're not supposed to oil them, but I have, and they work fine. They are larger OD than ultimaker bearings though, 12mm. I modified the twister blocks on youmagine to take them.
  12. Labern, I disagree there. I've printed ninjaflex with great results. I printed pretty hot ~240, and slow. Also run the filament through an oil soaked sponge to lube it up for the bowden. It's an impressive filament.
  13. Quality is looking great, magnets seem to be holding the head well at those speeds too. Are you still using the same 2 magnet setup?
  14. Its looking great. How much did you pay for the rails. I've found somewhere here in shanghai that sells 20mm rail, circa 700mm, 2 carriages for £25...but not sure if thats a good price. Any more test prints to show? Hows the dual head system coming along?
  15. The first link is for a UMO board anyway. I've not had a UM2 board from robotdigg, but everything else i've had off of them has been spot on with not problems. They also sell power adapters I think. Again, I have cheap Chinese power adapters for my second UMO, and not had an issue with them thus far. One of them is as you picked out originally. I'm going to print a fan enclosure for it at some point, but not got around to it yet.
  16. I have to say my opinion here differs a little to Neotko. I have also made a printer from Chinese parts, and the quality of prints is on par with my genuine ultimaker, and is infact more reliable at the moment! In fact, I had a problem with the OEM parts I got for it and went back to Chinese parts (peek and ptfe)! I am using a similar controller I think, but it's a much more modern version of the UM board, using SMD components with multiple fan out ports https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.11.mkiols&id=44460551886&ns=1&abbucket=7#detail. Yes, that board only costs 10 euros! The heated bed kit I got from ebay when a chap was making them for the UMO, has a SSR system. I got a UM2 Z platform, bearings and z screw/motor to make it the same as my UMO with HBK, works just as well and accurately, with 3 point levelling (after a mod or two). Maybe I just got lucky with the suppliers I chose to use. I get a lot from this guy: http://robotdigg.com , never had a problem with any parts from there. I really didn't expect the printer to work as well as it does, but, I don't know how long it will go on working for!
  17. Although I have a UMO, I think the construction is similar. I've also read about people doing exactly what you suggested...loosen all of the frame screws off, press down from the top to square things up and get it level, then retighten everything. Simples!
  18. Can anyone read Chinese here?! I found this on taobao, no idea what the specs are though. However I thought the laser on a lead was an interesting feature, would make mounting one super easy: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.20141002.3.MQAJmZ&scm=1007.10009.12973.100200300000004&id=521044932399&pvid=e818590a-e77f-4224-af08-56f6844349ce
  19. Im also going to keep an eye on this, once again foehnsturm is leading the innovations! I could event go back to e3d perhaps (seems direct drive 3mm works way better than Bowden 3mm).
  20. Hey guys, As per the title, any idea why this may be happening, and how to correct it? Is it just a case of designing in the inaccuracy to model? Ideally I'd like to fix mechanically or with settings, as I can't redesign other peoples parts that I print. Thanks
  21. Amazing stuff drayson. Do you have an approximate cost for this setup? And any closer to releasing a parts list? Are you going to attempt to cut thicker materials?
  22. wow, quite a difference. This is looking very interesting. As it's not a worm drive design, i'm assuming its a much simpler design in terms of the mechanics of the feeder and the 'custom' work.
  23. Someone developed a plugin for Cura (pre 15.06), for extruder select. You could used that, and select extruder 2 every time to print. It has a slight glitch where you have to manually input the temp using controller after preheat, but otherwise works.
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