macua85

Hey guys, As per the title, any idea why this may be happening, and how to correct it? Is it just a case of designing in the inaccuracy to model? Ideally I'd like to fix mechanically or with settings, as I can't redesign other peoples parts that I print. Thanks

Amazing stuff drayson. Do you have an approximate cost for this setup? And any closer to releasing a parts list? Are you going to attempt to cut thicker materials?

wow, quite a difference. This is looking very interesting. As it's not a worm drive design, i'm assuming its a much simpler design in terms of the mechanics of the feeder and the 'custom' work.

Someone developed a plugin for Cura (pre 15.06), for extruder select. You could used that, and select extruder 2 every time to print. It has a slight glitch where you have to manually input the temp using controller after preheat, but otherwise works.

That looks interesting. Is that the e3d with the liner all the way to the hot end? How will the print head attach?

I had this problem also when i changed my hotend parts for OEM, here is my post on how I sorted it: Right, I figured out the jamming problem, and its pretty disappointing. When I built up my hot ends originally, I used cheap Chinese parts. They worked perfectly fine, no problems or wearing out. However, I thought it would be best to replace them all with OEM ultimaker parts for longevity. This is when the problems occurred. After a few hours of frustration and testing/investigation, I found that on a large retraction, filament was forming a ring between the Teflon isolator and the brass heat break in the PEEK. Now, this gap shouldn't have been there. The peek had been incorrectly machined leaving a lip above the threads so the Teflon isolator couldn't sit all the way down, and make contact with the brass piece. I gently dremeled it out, and now have no jamming. Wasted 3 nights this week on that problem!

SO my issue is solved I think. As I had assumed, it was slightly off square, being forced so by the twister blocks i'm using and tightening the clamps too tight. All seems fine now. I figured this after I just got new rods and bearings in the post! Oh well, for another project I guess!

The only way it will leak though is if the isolator doesn't seat properly on top of the brass tube, that's what was happening to mine. Due to bad machining. And also causing jamming as the filament was cooling into this groove. China parts were all good for me!

Right, I figured out the jamming problem, and its pretty disappointing. When I built up my hot ends originally, I used cheap Chinese parts. They worked perfectly fine, no problems or wearing out. However, I thought it would be best to replace them all with OEM ultimaker parts for longevity. This is when the problems occurred. After a few hours of frustration and testing/investigation, I found that on a large retraction, filament was forming a ring between the Teflon isolator and the brass heat break in the PEEK. Now, this gap shouldn't have been there. The peek had been incorrectly machined leaving a lip above the threads so the Teflon isolator couldn't sit all the way down, and make contact with the brass piece. I gently dremeled it out, and now have no jamming. Wasted 3 nights this week on that problem! So with that fixed, now on to the next problem. I am having some trouble with the heaters. It takes an age to get them up to 213 degrees, and only one of them will get up to 260. So I guess I have one faulty one. However the one that does reach full temp, takes around 10mins to get there, and cant hold it. As soon as the parts cooling fan comes on the temp starts to drop, and heater cant keep up. The fan isn't pointing on to the nozzle. Maybe its getting deflected off bed? Or my other theory is that my main board is bad, is that possible in a way that is would affect heaters? Its a cheap Chinese copy, not OEM. Also running electronics cooling fan, and 2 x 40mm fans from the board (it had 4 fan connections, which is nice). Any ideas guys?

So which is the best version to use for dual extruder support, 15.06?

Aaaaah, its a google thing then. Google is blocked in China.

I would, but I can't get cura to download at work! I'll have to wait until tonight.

Sweet, that's great. I'm on 14.xx still. But, the final question (and hope its the right answer so I can get all this working!), does it 15.xx generate gcode in the same way as 14.xx for tool change, I.e use T0, T1

I can't see a checkbox anywhere? I click the link, new page opens with a bit download button, hit that, then I get the capatcha invalid page. Using internet explorer 11

wuuuuut, must be my browser I guess. Will try again at home.

Legacy cura? Is that the new version? Does is generate gcode in the same manner with the t(n) for extruder select? If it doesn't, I wont be able look up and insert my extruder selection script. I also thought It didn't support dual extrusion? Ive stayed away from it until now after reading all the problems people had with it.

I've just tried to download some older versions of cura, none of the links work, get this error: •Captcha is not valid. can you guys fix?

The preference at this stage would be to keep using Cura, as I'm having issues with the printer itseld at the moment, and if I use a new slicer too, I'm not going to know whats up when I get bad prints. Need to get consistent good prints with Cura before moving to simplify3d I think. Must be a gcode solution somehow when T1/T0 is swapped?

Guys, do any of you know if its possible to adjust the -16.5mm retraction on extruder swap in cura? I've got an issue with one filament type which jams when its retracted this far, so can't dual print with it. Failing that, does the software you use Neotko have this adjustment option?

I have the same problem, and was also convinced that it was an electrical rather than hardware problem. However last night I witnessed it happening, and it was caused by a bind on the mechanical system. I'm not sure how or where yet but I do know it was totally stuck. Once I got it moving again it was silky smooth with no indications of binding anywhere. I think it may be going off-square somehow and binding like that. Or there is something caught in the bearings? I'm ordering new rods and graphite filled bearings today, hope to sort it with that.

I've just seen what happens to my printer on a layer shift. I happened to be in the room servicing my other printer when the problem started. As suspected, the motor was skipping, so I assumed my theory of the stepper drivers was correct (after i have replaced the motors). However, when I turned the machine off and went to move the print head by hand, it was jammed solid. With a little persuasion, it moved again and all was back to silky smooth movement. When I did direct drive conversion, I used to (i think) h6 rods, which are ever so slightly larger than standard 8mm rods. Thus, the bronze bearings are a tight fit, but move ok still. I think the problem is it goes slightly off square somehow (the head/6mm rods), and jams up. I'm not sure how to fix it yet, may just end up going back to non direct drive.

Its a good idea. So how much has this cost to build? And I think you said this was specifically designed for the magnetic dual extrusion. Have you come up with different designs for that, or using your original design?

Foehnsturm, have you gone for z rails at the front of the bed as well? I can see holes for it but not installed.

Very exciting build. Will you be releasing files once complete and tested?

My 2 pence worth...stick with the OEM hot end. Its a great design and doesn't clog if its in good order (I've had my printer for over a year, hundreds of hours printing and never replaced a part with zero clogs). I have tried a dual e3d v6 setup, 3mm bowden. Sander is bang on the money, I have had no end of clogs and failed prints. I know others on this forum have also tried with similar results (ultiarjan). I have friends who use the 1.75mm bodwen version with no issues, probably due to the extended ptfe liner which means its not really a full metal hot end anymore. I also know people who have the 3mm version working, but not with bowden, but direct drive. This also seems to make a difference. This is just my experience, it will almost certainly be different for others. I ended up using ultimaker hot end parts on my custom hotend (for experimental second printer) with perfect results.