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macua85

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Everything posted by macua85

  1. macua85
    for PLA I don't think so.... although some people claim success... I would not advice E3D for PLA, after my experiments with E3D I just go a lot happier with my UM2 heads Yup same here, since I went with a design using all original ultimaker hot end parts, I've had no problem printing anything.
  2. macua85
    Did they sort the jamming too!?
  3. macua85
    Hey amedee, thats awesome! I see you've added it to the builder....you're the best! Thanks so much for this!
  4. macua85
    I've not printed too much with ninjaflex. Some feet for my ultimaker and some test robots! I find though that I get good layer adhesion and no feed problems at 240 degrees, flow 110%, 30mm/s and no fan. It's amazing stuff, pretty much rubber, uber flexible and bonds so well impossible to tear layers apart. Not tried rubbing it on anything, but it's stopped my ultimaker making marks on the table its sat on. I love the stuff, and have no problems printing it with a Bowden setup. I do have a dust filter with oil in it on the filament before the extruder, not sure if that's makes a difference or not, but reduces friction in Bowden a bit I'm sure.
  5. macua85
    Haha, I've given the frog to my brother! The accuracy is taken care of my the magnets and the locating cones idea that foehnsturm came up with. The head offsets are set in cura until they are perfectly aligned (although I think I can do more on that, will print more calibration items off). By using a wipe and prime tower, the oozing nozzle isn't a problem, as it just gets caught on that before moving to the print. I would still like to try to incorporate a wipe anyway though to neaten up the build area a bit. Here's a photo of a finished robot before cleaning up: The White and orange are both pla. My next print I'm going to try abs and pla. I've done a njnjaflex and pla print which turned out ok, but pla doesn't adhere to ninjaflex that well.
  6. macua85
    I used the standard retract settings, not sure what that is in cura for the nozzle swap. Used and wipe and prime tower thing only, not the ooze shield.
  7. macua85
    Tree frog success. Printed at 80% size, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s.
  8. macua85
    This is the screw adjust system, it's the same as the i used on the e3d setup, got no drawing pics of it in current setup.
  9. macua85
    Time for an update. I've had a chance to run off the first proper dual extrusion print with the new setup. I have to say, i'm pretty pleased with the results. The parts cooling is still a bit of a work in progress, but I adapted my design to suit the position of the two different hotends. One of them sits in a different position due to the height adjustment mechanism. First test print robot results look good, I think this design is a keeper. Its a print and forget system now the e3d and jamming has been removed from the equation. The one screw height adjustment is also working as expected, no issues levelling the nozzles, and it stays good once set. Once again, at this moment i'd post pictures but the new website/forum is letting me down. I'll try again tomorrow.
  10. macua85
    Haha, no i'm not that advanced! The third 'umbilical' is for the parts fan on the main gantry head
  11. macua85
    dammit, I've just ordered stainless nozzles and a roll of this stuff. I really hope you guys get this figured out before I start! @neotko seems to have printed a lot of the CF stuff...wonder what he did to get it to work. Maybe its due to the advanced settings he gets access too in simplify3d.
  12. macua85
    For others if they have the same problem, how did you fix it?
  13. macua85
    Did you select the correct printer when you upgraded the firmware? I think I've read people having this problem when they accidentally selected ultimaker original plus. Failing that, sound like maybe a short somewhere. Make sure the heater wires are not touching at all. I'd go over all of the wiring again and check it to make sure. You can test the power unit theory. Simply remove the pigtail between the heated bed circuit board and the ultimaker power in plug (the wire that came with the HBK). Then use the separate UMO power adapter to power the printer, and the HBK power adapter for the bed only. I run mine this way with not problems. The point is, should show if there is a power brick problem.
  14. macua85
    I agree with Ultiarjans sentiments here....although I have a UMO. I also tried the e3d but got constant jamming problems, and had to do crazy things like oil the filament AND hotend to get a print to complete. This affected the bed adhesion too. Since going back to a design using Ultimaker OEM components (all be it in enclosed in a different 'envelope'), I have had zero problems or jamming...or any prints failing due to hot end issues. I've also not replaced any teflon pieces despite only printing XT @250 degrees for hundreds of hours. For some reason the UMO doesn't get affected with the same teflon degradation. Maybe the peek is better insulator so less heat gets transferred?
  15. macua85
    If the short belts are coming loose, its probably due to the motor not being tight enough. Is it a UMO or UM2? on a UMO its easy to fix...just lose motor screws, press down on motor until desired belt tension is reached, then retighten the screws. I imagine its the same procedure on the UM2, but may have to remove the motor shields. Also check your pulleys are tight while you are at it. There is a small grub screw in them which you can tighten with the appropriately sized hex key.
  16. macua85
    Yup, the cooling fan seems to take care of it all. Ive printed an 8h 250 degree print with no issues. The cooling fan is ducted inside the unit to flow to underneath and the PTFE, pics show it better: I did learn the hard way though. Accidentally unplugged one of the fans and started a print...the PEEK crapped itself out of the bottom of the assemble within 5 mins.
  17. macua85
    Man I HATE this new website. I just wrote a huge write up of what I've been up to and why, webpage crashed when uploading pics. WHY IS THERE NO AUTOSAVE OF POSTS!? Anyway thanks to this crappy new site, will have to do without now. Pics only instead, cant be bothered to write it all out again.
  18. macua85
    OK i'll keep an eye on the builder! If you do get a chance to look into it let me know. Ta
  19. macua85
    Hmm, the drops are indicative of pla thats been sat in the nozzle for a while, and go super hot and dripped (instead of extruded) out. As gr5 mentions, perhaps its the feeder and grinding. The UM2 has a direct drive feeder, so the stepper and knurled bolt sleeve get very hot, and can melt the filament slightly. This leads to excessive grinding and the appearance of a blocked nozzle, but is in fact the material not feeding correctly. Its just a guess, I have a UMO!
  20. macua85
    Hey guys, So i've glued (witt arctic thermal glue) larger heat sinks onto the umo steppers and replaced the Y stepper with a spare I had. Also cut some slots at the end of the stepper channel in the fan cover so the hot air can vent out properly. Hopefully all this will make the difference! Thanks for the input, will update if its not sorted.
  21. macua85
    Any changes to make firmware wise for those?
  22. macua85
    I have a few spares, I'll try putting those in. Maybe the heat sinks have detached. Will Check that too. Am I right in assuming prolonged skipping would be more likely to damage the driver rather than the motor?
  23. macua85
    Come to think of It, there was a preceding event before this problem. I left it on a print overnight, and woke up to the printer jammed and plastic pubes all over the place. The y rod had some sticky shite on it which caught he bearing a seized it all up solid. The x coupling was also rubbing against the plastic mount too. Think that could damage the stepper drivers or motors?
  24. macua85
    Ok, give me some ideas guys. I keep getting failed prints on my ultimaker (my genuine one) at the moment. It's ironic my one made with cheap chinese parts is more reliable. Backgrounds info: it's direct drive with gt2. It just failed a 14h print during the last hour. I keep getting layer shifting, usually in the Y direction but sometimes both. Sometimes only a few mm, but enough to ruin print, sometimes a seismic shift. The axis are silky smooth with no catching or tightness anywhere. Pulleys are all super tight as are the couplings from motor to shafts. I'm stumped. No idea what's causing it. Happened on the last 5 prints I've attempted, same model file (which is sound, no issue with that). So much wasted filament! Could this be a stepper or stepper driver issue? Any help much appreciated, I can't keep wasting xt at the rate I am! Thanks
  25. macua85
    Ive read of people having an abs 'soap bar' which they dip in acetone and wipe it around the plate for an even mess free coating, maybe worth a try.
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