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macua85

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Everything posted by macua85

  1. macua85
    neotko, what happened to the nozzle you had?
  2. macua85
    Hey guys, any recommendations on glue sticks in the UK to use? Pritt (from here in china, red tube) is useless. I'm heading home for a holiday and need to stock up.
  3. macua85
    Also out of interest, why would this only affect the z stage? I have gt2 conversion and set the steps/mm accordingly (80) and that was ok.
  4. macua85
    Hi Erri, Many thanks for the reply. Indeed I did change it to 400 and it seems to be giving me normal height robots now! Im confused as to why it is different to my UMO with HBK, so its most likely the stepper drivers having a different specification? Thanks
  5. macua85
    Hey amedee, I'm back to using this controller after burring out my ulticontroller. The reason I stopped using it was the encoder being reversed, got annoying. I'm going to attempt to sort it with the firmware fix you posted above. I'm not sure how to update the firmware though, is it by using the controller iteself, or through the ultimaker board? Another option for the firmware builder perhaps....reverse encoder if you select graphic controller? Thanks for any help
  6. macua85
    Think the 42 number could be microsteps?
  7. macua85
    Hey guys, so I set the z steps to 200/mm, and I have a very short robot, less than half the height! Is there any way of figuring out the steps/mm?
  8. macua85
    What 3mm do you mean? I had to alter the twister blocks for the bearings I got, which turned out to be 12mm rather than 11 (OD). thankfully the creator uploaded the STEP files to youmagine.
  9. macua85
    Unless you can source and solder SMD components, I think the only fix is a new HBK control board. I'd get in touch with support. Out of interest, how long as this been in service?
  10. macua85
    New bit of info...the stepper drivers are getting hot when its switched on. If I remove all of the drivers the ulticontroller screen stays with constant backlight (and a few characters on which fade away).
  11. macua85
    When I was building up my second ultimaker, I was testing the fan 19v output with my multimeter and accidentally shorted the terminals. I heard a click, and everything was dead. I took the ardunio off, and that wasn't communicating with just a solid red light on it. So I installed a new Mega today, flashed firmware no problem. However, the ulticontroller screen is blank, with the backlight cycling between 3 brightness levels continuously. I try to run bed level wizard from cura, but says can establish connection. Any idea what the cause is? Or what I could have fried on the ultimaker board? Thanks,
  12. macua85
    Hey guys, So I replaced the arduino, and can now upload firmware files no problem. However, the ulticontroller screen is blank, with the backlight cycling between 3 brightness levels continuously. I try to run bed level wizard from cura, but says can establish connection. Any idea what the cause is? Or what I could have fried on the ultimaker board?
  13. macua85
    So its confirmed dead...hoping its only the arduino. Ive just ordered a replacement, should be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed all is ok after that!
  14. macua85
    So, i have tried disconnecting heaters etc, no change. I removed the steppers, and now I am able to turn it on, even after the steppers are back in. However, the ulticontroller is coming up blank, (or a few half blocks showing), and the USB doesn't communicate with the laptop, no connection. So think i've fried the arduino? Maybe thats where the click came from? DO they have any fuses? I'll give up for the night now, and see if its working in the morning but I have my doubts. Its ironic, I've managed to fix the fan which caused all these problems in the first place!
  15. macua85
    Well, I've buggered it I think. The PSU cut out on thermal overload. So thats reset now, but when I try and power up the ultimaker, it comes on momentarily and then trips again. Shame, was so close!
  16. macua85
    Damn, just as I was about to test everything, I shorted out the fan wires when checking the voltage (controller fan wasn't coming on, probably another piece of chinese junk). So the printer immediately clicked and cut out. The question is, is there a thermal cutout on these, or have I just fried the board?
  17. macua85
    Ok, so it turns out the Chinese power supplies I got ("genuine HP"), are utter balls. I used a 24v adjustable 200w supply, and its working fine. One more questions, the z stage when homing is really slow. I have used the same stepper as the UM2, and adjusted the steps/mm to 200. Is there anything else I can do to make it home as quick as my other UMO which has the genuine HBK?
  18. macua85
    Great thanks for the help guys. Also found another problem. The chinese 1.5.7 board i have got is an updated version, so its all sms components...but crucially, comes with resistors already soldered in to r21, r24, r4. Thats good for my heated be kit, but now I've decided to use k type thermocoupes, it left me scratching my head when error max temp and shutdown kept happening. All sorted now. Now I just need to figure out this blowing power supply for the hbk.
  19. macua85
    Hey guys, quick questions. I'm trying out the new printer motors to check all is ok. I can't get the extruder motor to activate...however there is no heater installed yet, just the thermistor. Even if i set print temperature to 25 degrees (to test extrusion), it doesn't do anything. Is there a failsafe here which stops it extruding when cold? Also, another annoying problem which i doubt anyone can help with...i've wired up my heated bed kit (not oem, but a bang bang one eBay used to sell), and just blown two power blocks (19v, 230w). No idea whats causing it, wiring is all ok. weird.
  20. macua85
    One of the few perks of living in china...I use robotdigg and get the parts the next day!
  21. macua85
    This is interesting...as I'm currently doing exactly the same thing! I've ordered everything from taobao though as I'm already in china. I have an oem spare wooden parts kit due to some QC issues with my first one, and as always with superb customer service, ultimaker sent me a replacement. I managed to salvage my original frame in the end, so using the spare to build a Chinese version. The parts I have so far seem to be ok. I went with a HBK style bed, they sell the aluminium (or in this case steel), bed section on taobao. Ordered a um2 z stage stepper too, so in theory should be like the HBK. For the heated bed, I already had a spare on (non UMO, bang bang style), so I have printed some adapters to fit that to the 3 point levelling system. As for the axis, i'll see how decent they are this week!
  22. macua85
    Yup I have this noise too, always had it. As you say its the linear bearings. It causes a little extra friction on mine too.No idea what causes it, but it doesn't seem to affect the operation.
  23. macua85
    I believe the UM2's now ship with a space hot end isolator as this part is now considered a consumable. There's a few threads on the issue. Expect it to happen again and make sure you keep a spare on in stock all the time!
  24. macua85
    With PLA you really shouldn't get warping issues, especially with a heated bed. The cause of this would usually be either a greasy/mucky bed, so wipe down with some alcohol to sort it. Or, bed levelling not quite right. If the nozzle is too far from the bed, the first layer doesn't get nicely 'squished' into the glass. If you are still having problems after trying the above, use a glue stick on the bed and then try printing again. Similarly, a brim would help, but I wouldn't have thought it would be necessary with PLA. One more thing, if the model has square edges, it is more likely to lift, so try and round any edges using a filet feature of similar in the 3d modelling phase (doesn't have to be much ~1mm).
  25. macua85
    Sorry forgot to put the link, yup that's the ones.
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