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ericwilsonart

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  1. Another question regarding the speed. This might be a general question that is well known already but; if the profile settings within Cura says "Print speed (mm/s) 50" but when it is printing it says under "tune>speed>100%" on the machine. Does that mean that the speed setting is actually 100% i.e. 100 mm/s or that it is 100% of the input value set in Cura? I can't imagine that would be the case that the setting would be relative as that would lead to a lot of confusion, but that it would literally always mean 1%=1 mm/s all the time. If this is the case I would need to manually match the speed to what the profile value in Cura is calling for? If that is true that needs to be fixed in my opinion
  2. Thanks for getting back to me. Didier Klein you asked Q. "Can you tell us the version of the firmware you're using? Some printers have temperature fluctuation that can cause problems like yours (but i must say, apart from the color difference most of the prints you show look pretty good)." A. There are no signs of fluctuation of temperature. I have kept an eye on this. Q. Can you tell us the version of the firmware you're using? A. Cura is up-to-date but that is not the same as updating the firmware on the machine right? I will look into. gr5 you asked Q. Did you mention if you tested the 3rd fan? Make sure it blows through the head, not suck. When you first turn on printer (not during printing). A. Yes the fan seems to be fully functional at all times even during extrusion failure. This makes sense I will try and print from the beginning at 190º C. If I turn it down to 190º mid print or when extrusion has slowed way down, extrusion stops all together. According to your theory of heat traveling up the PLA and making it too soft/wide to pass through the teflon spacer would mean that once the print has failed due to overheating the PLA @ 210º-220º C lowering it to 190º C and not seeing any signs of extrusion is because the damage is already done. This is interesting and seems like it would be the culprit to me. I will have to see how it comes out from the get go, but my concern is that at that heat from the beginning the walls will not touch. (See the link) http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace I will let you know though. ABS dust should be gone I have blown out the bowden tube 3 times and disassembled and blown out the feeder box assembly 2 times so I imagine that is not the case but maybe....
  3. It was failing at 210º so I bumped it up to 220º I will do the test seen here in the video and see what kind of result I get. So are you saying the lower the resolution the lower the temperature should be also? On a side note...Today I spoke with someone that owns a 3D printing company and he said the formula for minimal layer thickness should be 80% less of your nozzle diameter. So if I multiply the .4 mm nozzle by .2 that gives me a value of .08 or .08mm layer thickness. Please check my math haha. If that is true than .06 mm or .02 as I have done in the past is outside the range of safely printable tolerances. ABS in nozzle? No I cleaned that thing out for hours with pipe cleaners acetone and plenty of fire Like I said I could see the color of brass only inside, it was like a new part. I will stick to PLA either way. It is much nicer for bigger parts like you say. Regarding the fan. I will have to check that next time it fails. Not sure I understand the part when you said "- Filament melting - pla only - the glass temp for PLA is around 60C" Filament is not tangled. Plus I have changed out the roles many times. Thank you. I will report when I have some findings.
  4. Thanks Peter. I actually started doing everything in meshmixer I don't have that issue anymore. I can scale and cut in that program without any issues importing into Cura.
  5. I have tried about everything I can think of and have read many threads and tried troubleshooting all the suggested things via all the suggested methods. What is happening consistently is the print is failing over and over. I have had this problem on both of my machines but more on one than the other. My guess at this point is that the temperature of the head is dropping or fluctuating. My reason for theorizing this is that the print color on a good print is almost consistently the same while all the prints that are failing have color variations and gradations and when I manually turn up the temperature the color changes. What have I done so far? 1. Disassembled the head assembly and cleaned the brass nozzle out thoroughly till nothing other than brass was visible on the inside. 2. Disassembled the bowden tube and manually inspected the resistance of the depressed PLA. Result negative, no resistance was found. 3. Disassembled the feeder cleaned out debris. I doubt this had any effect on extrusion. 4. Tested the feeder with weights (20lbs) and found that of the said 22lbs limit the material slipped back at about 15 lbs. Either way I highly doubt this was the problem. 5. When printing and close to ultimate extrusion failure, the feeder stepper motor starts to 'tock' and slip back suggesting that there is too much load on the hot end. While the print is failing sometimes turning the temperature way up for a brief period of time, maybe a few minutes then turning it back down seems to correct for the problem for a while anyway then eventually maybe hours later the print will fail gradually by under extrusion to no extrusion. I have tried to increase the material temperature after extrusion has stopped and nothing comes out at that point. 6. It is not a blocked/clogged nozzle. If I abort the print and manually heat up the nozzle I can easily feed material through by hand with a thick stream extruding straight down creating a nice snake coil on the build tray. What were my settings? Quick print profile settings with ONLY the infill adjusted. i.e. Quality Layer height (mm) .06 Shell thickness (mm) 0.8 Retration Enabled Fill Bottom/Top thickness (mm) 0.6 Fill Density % 7 Speed and temperature Print speed (mm/s) 50 I have tried to print small to large parts at these settings and with the default infil of 5%-20% all of which have failed. In the middle of all these failed prints I have had two successful prints with even color and absolution no extrusion problems. This is probably the most frustrating part, not knowing why it randomly without changing any variables will print successfully 20% of the time. I'm out of ideas at this point. Here are some images: A successful print next to a failed print at the same settings. http://imgur.com/LAu2mz1 Here are a number of prints that failed. keep in mind that there was one in between all these that was successful. http://imgur.com/7Pai0Vr Here are a number of larger prints that all failed in the same way. http://imgur.com/05ByB6H Thanks in advance for your help on this. I hope there is a reasonably easy solution.
  6. I am using Maya to scale the model, then I export (in mm) as an .STL, then I import into Cura and the scaling is all gone. It is about 4.5 times smaller than the size it was scaled to in Maya. The reason I am scaling it in Maya is because the figure is cut up into many different pieces that need to fit back together post print. Has anyone seen this before? Any ideas how to troubleshoot? Thanks!
  7. I just unboxed this and as far as I can tell this noise that is being produced as the head travels on the Y axis (at least Y as it correlates to Cura) seems unnatural and I am worried it is effecting the print negatively. What noise am I talking about? The one that sounds like scratching your nails on a blackboard or screeching metal on glass. That's the one! I can't seem to get any good results as of yet. I have mirrored the settings using the same PLA printing the same model as others have with far less impressive results. Any thoughts from the community would be appreciated greatly! Oh I did oil the rails with sewing oil and that has not helped. Thanks, Eric Hi I posted a video of it here so you can hear it yourself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDrl-eQmqbM&feature=youtu.be
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