drofnas

so...I watched your video and ran out to buy the Loctite Ultra Gel. I put it on a test piece and held it together for 1 minute, then let it sit undisturbed for 5 minutes - total negative bond. Total waste of time and money. Maybe you have a different kind of PLA than what I have? I'm curious if you are prepping the surfaces before gluing them together? Do you have an example of what you were trying to glue? Since I've had great results with CA glue, but I also let it sit overnight, since I assume the manufacturer is lying to me when it says "fully cured in X hours". I pre-sand all surfaces I plan on glueing, usually with 180-220 grit sand paper, and so far I've had 0 issues.

Yea, I'm also on the "new +feeder works perfectly" band wagon. My printer had been laid up for a few weeks before I upgraded, now it's rock solid.

I started using this combo and it "seems" to be working pretty awesome so far: http://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-151-Insta-Set-Accelerator/dp/B0000DD1QR I've been tossing CA glue on one side, spray the Accelerator on the other side, and pushing the parts together. Few seconds later, ready to move on with my project. I've only used it on a few projects so far, so don't have a ton of experience with the Accelerator yet.

Hmm, there might be a few places that need to be changed, since the official firmware source has it set to 275 (same with TinkerGnomes): Line 166: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L166 But either way, I'll wait on TinkerGnome to do the tweaks, he knows much better than I ;-)

side question, would you be able to do that for me? i have never messed with the firmware... i always messed with the mechanical side of things It looks like it would be as simple as changing the value on line 79 from 250, to your new max temp (275): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/geek_mode/Marlin/createTemperatureLookupMarlin.py#L79 But since this is the the UM2 firmware, and not the UM2+ one, we will have to wait for the Tinker Gods to shine some light on us.

yay, got mine in and installed. It works SOOOO much better after installing the $500 "UM2+" sticker... the other upgrades are nice too ;-) Might need to make some sort of "lock widget thingy" to keep the feeder open when changing material though, since it does require a good amount of force to keep it open. That's one thing I really liked about the iRoberts Feeder, very easy to change materials. Was also very glad I had one of these cheap little screw driver sets (http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html) when doing this upgrade, since those back 2 screws for the circuit board are a PAIN with the little hex wrench it comes with. Also came in handy when I had to loosen the set screws for the axles during the alignment step in the instructions.

Hmm, I had ordered mine from 3D Universe, but it looks like they are weeks out as well: http://shop3duniverse.com/collections/ultimaker-3d-printers/products/extrusion-upgrade-kit Mine comes in today (where are you UPS DRIVER!!!!!!), but I had ordered it the day it was released. Looks like they didn't quite anticipate how quickly they would be sold out.

This one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement-for-i2k It's based on Korneels, just shorter in height to account for the i2k.

Nope, I was using the original spring at first then switched over to the spring replacement (printed in ColorFabb XT): https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement-for-i2k I hadn't read anywhere to cut the ptfe coupler when I purchased the i2k a few months ago. Maybe I got a bad batch, not sure... but it was the last thing in the path of the filament I could think to change/remove, so it "seemed" to be the root cause of my printing issues.

So for the past month I've been having a TON of under extrusion issues, to the point that I actually bought a new (mini) printer just so I could finish my current project. I've tried replacing my bowden tube, teflon (DUPTEF, then TFM), nozzle (have Olson Block), spring replacement (based on korneels), steel coupler, and even went back to my original fan shroud (had laberns installed), but nothing seemed to work. Then finally on a whim I decided to remove the i2k insulator and put back on the spring and now I'm actually getting successful prints again. Right before I removed it I had tried pushing some filament through and noticed that my filament had stopped right around the teflon tube no matter how much force I used. After waisting all this time and money, if anyone is having any under extrusion issues and has the i2k installed, please try removing it and see if that helps. When I removed mine it was a little sticky, like it melted a bit, I thought this was supposed to be more robust then the Teflon. I think I had "maybe" printed 150hrs (210C-230C) with my i2k installed before my issues had cropped up. With that, I'd have to say pass on the i2k insulator and just get a couple Teflon (TFM) backups instead. (IMHO)

We should be happy Ultimaker doesn't follow Apples pricing strategy: Cost of Materials + 99% Markup = Almost there

I don't understand all the hate for the price, when I priced it out based on all the spare parts you get, the kit is half the cost of the individual parts: $35 Geared Feeder Motor $20 Geared Feeder $109 Oslon Block Kit (with nozzles) $28 Temp Sensor $31 35W Heater Cartridge $18 PTFE Couple (TFM) $20 Steel Coupler $10 Bowden Tube $18 Fan Shroud $3 Better Bed Clips $6 Collet & Retaining Clip $24 Cooling Fans $15 Print Head Block Set $35 Print Head Cables / Wiring Loom $500 UM 2+ Sticker ??? Rods $877 TOTAL (+ what ever the rods cost) I couldn't find a set of spare X/Y rods sold anywhere, but I guess I didn't look very hard. Of course most of these costs were related to the UM2 original spare parts, being that the new ones aren't sold (yet).

Nope, it's starts with a "Fab" and ends with a "rikator Mini 1.5". Since I was in the middle of printing parts for the "Mostly Printed CNC" when my UM2 went down for the count. Bought this to finish the job.

I'll just watch the contest from the bleachers, haven't been able to print with my um2 successfully for over a month. Just ordered a full kit, since I would like a working printer again. Can I print my contest entry on my other printer? ;-)

Well, just about everything was tweaked from the original um2 print head; Olson Block pre-installed, dual extrusion path closed up, new heater, new temp sensor, and new fan shroud. You don't have much left from the original after all those upgrades, so why not make it an easy upgrade with a fully assembled print head. Not sure on the shafts though, didn't read anything on that previously.

Sounds like we are very much having the same issue, just mine is the original UM2 with a bunch of fun upgrades. I even ordered a couple of the TFT Couplers, in hopes my retractions settings were what messed with my current DUPTEF coupler. But I doubt that will fix it, since I JUST replaced that with a new one. I even tried printing one of these widgets hoping that I just needed to make a straighter path for my filament, but didn't seem to change anything: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-bowden-clip-and-guide For me, I still have the original spring compressing the coupler, so maybe that is my issue. Just getting compressed to much and is pushing inward on the filament. Maybe I'll take a drill to one of my extra ones and hope that helps.

I think this is EXACTLY what is happening to me, I've had SOOOOOOO many failed prints lately and every time I take off the bowden tube I see a wrecking ball of filament at the end, which is too big to retract into the tube. Gonna also give the 0 retraction thing a try cause this is getting very frustrating. I might have solved my issue. Just gotta wait a few days. Did you upgrade anything on your machine? Im using the 1.75mm block. Might have found an issue with a combination of the Bowden,Teflon and i2k I was hopeful it solved mine, but it worked out for a single print, now back to being an expensive paper weight. I've upgraded a few things on mine, which is a UM2 Original. * Olsson Block (3mm) - 0.4 nozzle * iRoberts Feeder * 35W Heater * DUPTEF + i2k I'm just getting what seems friction around where the DUPTEF Coupler and Bowden tube meet. I had replaced the Bowden tube and DUPTEF coupler with in the past few weeks, so I'd "hope" they don't wear out that quickly. I even bought a new Frabrikator Mini printer just so I can continue my printing projects since I was so fed up with this UM2. But my last print was a Feeder Guide w/Oiler for the iRoberts Feeder, I'm hoping against all hope that will help with my issue. Otherwise I guess I will have to throw more money at the problem and get the soon to be released "UM2 to UM2+ Upgrade Kit." /rant

I think this is EXACTLY what is happening to me, I've had SOOOOOOO many failed prints lately and every time I take off the bowden tube I see a wrecking ball of filament at the end, which is too big to retract into the tube. Gonna also give the 0 retraction thing a try cause this is getting very frustrating.

Wondering if you can explain this a little more, or if you have a link to another article/post/video explaining the best way to work with off spool filament. Plus how you remove filament from a spool to it doesn't tangle during that process? I of course always "seem" to have issues when I get down to about 25% filament left on the roll, where the it's a bit tighter.

Just no spammy messages like this, I don't mind getting the emails I signed up for via the Account UI.

So I just got a email trying to sell me some Rolex watches and it was sent via my direct user email address in YouMagine: user-[id-value-here]@mg.youmagine.com My question is how the heck can I disable this? Do I need to remove my email address all together on YouMagine so I never get any updates / emails?

If you got an idea of one I can install, I'd love to hear it. Right now I'm already running with IRobertI Alternative Feeder, IRobertI Low Friction Spool Holder, 35W Heater upgrade, and an Olsson Block (0.4 nozzle). So I thought I was doing all the stuff to reduce these issues, but I'm still very much a nub. Yea, your reasons are much better than mine. My specific reason is a little short sited just because of my current issue trying to print these parts.

yes, but size is only subset of the issues. Reading the forums it sounds like in my case I might have to much retractions during my 16+ hour prints, which then heats up the knurled feeder and eventually causes grinding to occur. I want the printer to know if the filament is still moving or not, so it can abort before it gets to an "Air Print" scenario and a bunch of grind'ed up filament all over my feeder.

Thanks, I'll take a look at their solution. It would still be an awesome addon/kit for a UM2 (or the eventual UM3).

Not sure if this idea has already been suggested, but after a bunch of failed prints lately (ton of 16+ hour ones), I wish there some sort sort of sensor right above the feeder that can see if the filament is still moving when the stepper motors says it's suppose to be. If after some appropriate amount of time (maybe a setting in Cura) it can abort the print, then show the layer it was last printing on the screen. This way someone could come back, clean the nozzle, ensure there isn't an issue with snagged filament, etc. And maybe resume where it left off at. Am I off my rocker thinking this would be an awesome upgrade? P.S. Right now I'm building the Mostly Printed CNC machine which requires pieces to have 50-80% infill, so they are rigid enough to handle the forces of moving around a spindle. I'm sure my failures are related to to-many retractions, but unsure, and I still have 100 hours worth of prints to do... shrug.