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drofnas

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Everything posted by drofnas

  1. Official, nope, but that is the best thing about having an awesome community behind these badass printers. You get things like the Rail System from UltiArjan. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs This would easily allow for you to have 2 spools, feeders, etc.
  2. I think I'm most excited about the PT100 and the Fan Shroud (rocking a printed one currently). The Laberns shroud I have works great, for the most part, but in the short amount of time I'm had it installed it's already warping around the hot-end. So it would be nice to have one that will live through more than just PLA prints. Currently printed in XT-White. Already have the Olsson Block, 35W Heater (not installed yet), Roberts Feeder (love it), and I never remove my glass bed (so meh on clips). But depending on the price of the kit, I may purchase it so that I can use that second Olsson block, heater, etc, for a Dual Olsson Setup. Then I can have one for PLA and the other for XT.
  3. I wonder if things have changed since March; looking at ColorFabb's website shows all their PLA / XT are sold in .75kg spools. Personally I don't mind paying for quality. As the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for". But maybe I'm just one of those dumb customers
  4. Actually only the "new one" is an I2K + DupTef, the "used one" is I2K + PTFE Coupler (from the Ultimaker shop). No TF2K yet - but it's a thing to consider... The "DupTef" has disappeared from the 3dSolex shop anyway... Dang, I just bought and installed the I2K + Duptef combo, is that already replaced by something better?
  5. Now you got me worried. /me orders a couple extra build plates before he starts using his XT stash I'd be curious if one of the non-glass alternative build plates (eg, Zebra Plate) do the same thing, or maybe something like Kapton Tape (which I noticed wasn't on the original list) is a nice alternative to printing directly on the build plate for XT.
  6. I was just looking at the Flecks 3D build plate on KickStarter, but none of the sizes they offer will fit perfectly in the UM2; so I just passed on that. I really liked the idea of having those quick removal inserts, so I can print a widget, take out and let them cool on the side, start on the next one, rinse repeat. Which would be awesome for a shared MakerSpace too, print it up, take out the quick release plate, then the next person can use it. I'm sure it's all marketing hype, so I'll wait and see on that one. Plus wait for them to have one that exactly fits the UM2.
  7. This is what I get for not using the tools I have installed... I completely forgot about Netfabb. Gonna do another full print so I have a better idea of what might "really" be wrong I wonder how that website compares to Netfabb app itself, I see it's powered by "Netfabb".
  8. Things are looking a bit better now. Just a few more minor issues left. I was thinking maybe it would help to increase the Extrusion Multiplier, but after reading what that will actually do, I think it would instead increase the scaring issue. Thoughts?
  9. That's a great tip, much better than tweaking my normal print, see how it looks, repeat until crazy has set in
  10. Even with a 0.8mm nozzle? I would think you want it to be at least same as the nozzle size, but of course I'll still test it at 0.40 anyways Thanks a ton for these, I'll try doing another print and see what I see.
  11. Another thing I noticed, when I use S3D is the nozzle seems to be much closer to the printer bed than when I use Cura. I wonder if that could be the issue with my filament getting ground up with S3D prints, where it doesn't have enough room to spit out the filament onto the bed. Maybe another setting that needs to be fixed? Also has anyone figured out how to get the UltiGCode values at the start of the GCode file, so that I can see the time it takes / filament length on the UM2 screen. Guessing it's these values at the start of a Cura GCode file: ;FLAVOR:UltiGCode;TIME:9239;MATERIAL:14942;MATERIAL2:0...
  12. Here's what I have for those pieces: The first print I did created some awesome bottom/top layers using the Concentrectic external fill pattern. So I'm excited to get it all figured out, and frustrated after having pretty successful prints with Cura ;-)
  13. Yea, I probably jumped up a little to high going from 205C to 220C, but when I moved back to 215C I was getting filament grinding instead. Guess I'll go and try a Cura print really quick, so I can remove one variable to see what's going on with my printer.
  14. Hello, So I decided to pick up Simplify3D since I wanted more control over my prints and the support generation stuff sounded awesome. My first print turned out decent, but the Prime tower was getting all up in my business: So I thought I'd try again without the prime tower, and now those strings are all over my print instead: I had also increased the temp from 205 to 220, since I had a clogging issues with my 0.8mm nozzle at 205. * Material: ColorFabb Blue Grey * Temp: 220C (205C first print) * Bed Temp: 60C * Layer: 0.1mm (0.15 first print) * Speed: 41.7mm/s (default printing speed in s3d) * Infill: 50% Is there any wisdom fellow S3D owners can give to any newbs (like me) that end up grabbing this software? Maybe some default settings you would start with for the difference Nozzles sizes (Ollson Block). Or maybe there is a calculation we should know when installing a new nozzle size, like 0.8 * 3.14 / Outside Temp = Random Value
  15. It seems it might have just been the Temp thing... I just upped it to 220 for my 0.8mm nozzle. So far it seeeeeeems fine, at least it's not getting stuck like last night. So the stuck bowden looks like it was just a piece of material backing up and increasing in size due to the low temp I was running with my 0.8 nozzle Will find out in a few hours how well this print goes, but so far so great.
  16. Is the MC25100V2-A99 recommended over the lower CFM version (MC25060V2 - A99)? Now that I'm using my Home Office (where my UM2 lives) for more office'y stuff, I was looking to reduce the loud noise of my original extruder fan.
  17. Right, but I couldn't pull the filament back, at least not via the Move Material option in the Advanced menu. Which normally heats the hot end to about 220. Instead I had to heat the hot end all the way to 260, just so I could remove the tube with the material still in it. When I did the Move Material I could see that it was trying really hard to push/pull the material with no success; even if I physically tried to help push/pull it through the feeder.
  18. I'll try increasing the temp when I wake up tomorrow. I was able to complete a 4 hour print at this temp. Both. I was unable to Move Material and I couldn't physically remove the Bowden tube from the machine. I had to heat up the hot end to 260 before it would budge. With the tube removed I was able to move the material just fine using the advanced menu on the printer. I did and atomic pull after I got it unstuck the first time, but that came out clean.
  19. So it seems my Bowden Tube keeps getting stuck now and stopping the flow of filament after the first layer (or 2). I've successfully heated the hot-end to 260 and removed it, then re-inserted to try again (same result). Since I can't really print anything right now, should I replace the Bowden Tube, Isolator Coupler, Printer (jk), or something else? For this last print I had the following settings: * Material: ColorFabb Blue Grey * Temp (set in S3D): 205C * Bed Temp: 60C * Layer: 0.1mm * Speed: 30mm/s * Infill: 50% Recent Upgrades/Changes: * Olsson Block w/ 0.8mm Nozzle * Simplifiy3D - Just started using, had one successful print with it, then this started happening (might just be coincidence). Right now I'm still using the spring that's part of the original hot-end assembly, the thing that presses on the Isolator Coupler. I was looking to replace it after I install the I2k insulator, with one of those spring replacement widgets (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement-for-i2k). But can't really do that until I fix this issue long enough to actually print something. These are the times I wish I had a second printer ;-) Thoughts, before I start taking it all apart?
  20. And it's easy to tell .25 from .8 because .8 is 3X larger hole. Now we just need a negative dot (aka, a bump) for the 0.15 nozzle ;-)
  21. Don't know if I could really help, but it might help others if you provide the ini/cfg files you are having issues with. Have you manually tweaked these at some point OR did it always blow up? Have you tried to do a clean re-install (backup config files first, just incase)?
  22. Yea, I like that second design as well. Since I'm also interested in doing the setup that Ultiarjan did (pretty sure thats who did it). So I can have a setup just for PLA and another for XT and other Higher Temp materials, then I can install the upgraded 35W Heater into that one. Plus that second setup also keeps the bowden tubes closer to each other, so you can keep things a little tidier too.
  23. If you are in the States and order from http://fbrc8.com/, you may still get the dots only version. As that is what I just got installed about a week ago.
  24. I see a ton of filaments just sitting out, and some bagged to the right. Is there certain filaments you find that need to be bagged up? Right now I individual bag all my filaments (PLA) with a desiccants packet. How do you like the Form 1 compared to the awesome that is the UM2's?
  25. That's a great idea, I need to set that up for the spreadsheet I use as well. Since most of the stuff I make, I don't sell, I figured this was a good place to start with logging. But I did make another spreadsheet where I added a bunch of details for some items I just created that I was thinking of selling. This is info overload, just because I was running the numbers, based on time, how much I wanna charge, material cost, etc. SKU Product Name Parts - List of STL parts to make this item. Since my first project uses shared parts between them (threaded pieces) and are glued up as needed. Weight (50%) - Grams from Cura, 50% Infill Weight (100%) Time (50%) - Time from Cura, 50% Infill Time (100%) PLA Cost (50%) - Cost of PLA based on current market price, 50% Infill PLA Cost (100%) XT Cost (50%) - Cost of XT based on current market price, 50% Infill XT Cost (100%) Standard Bundle - Since some items will be sold in bundles of 2, 4, etc Bundled PLA Cost (50%) - Same as above, but based on Bundle Size. Bundled PLA Cost (100%) Bundled XT Cost (50%) Bundled XT Cost (100%) MSRP Gross Profit - What I would make off of the item, minus material cost. Gross Per Minute - Just to see how much money I make based on printing time I also highlighted the configuration I would sell an item in. Such as 100% Infill with XT for a wall mount, but only 50% Infill PLA for something lighter duty. These recommended configurations are what I based that Gross and Gross Per Minute on.
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