drofnas

They say it's recommended but there is no real must imo, just make sure the heat block doesn't touch the fan shroud. To help me install mine, I actually set my cell phone to use front camera, then laid it down on the glass printer bed. That way I can make sure I was getting as close to the center of the fan shroud hole as possible during installation. So far (cross fingers) I haven't gotten any warning/error messages. I think I'll probably print a fan hood as soon as I get the ColorFabb XT (White) in the mail next week. Maybe it will help my 0.8mm and 1mm nozzle prints to come out better ;-)

For people in the US, you can also get an Olson Block Kit (comes with 4 nozzles) from fbrc8.com. I just ordered the kit + spare temp sensor from them last week. Now I'm just a enjoying my awesome upgrade. http://fbrc8.com/collections/3rd-party-parts-upgrades

Option A. Since the original feeder would be un-harmed in this setup, I could always print myself replacement parts if something was to happen with the previously printed parts.

I think this would depend on the setup you have and if there's a way to send a stop command. For example if you had a IP Camera that let you remotely monitor said print with the addition of some way to cancel the print, I'm not sure if that's much different than what I do now. Start the print, check to see if the first few layers look good, then leave (bedtime, errands, work, etc) With the cameras in place, you would be able to do the same thing. The only difference is you couldn't clear the bed to start a new job. I would think of it as a added benefit, not a replacement for SD Card swap printing. Heck, maybe you wanna print some simple object you just created remotely using the OpenSCAD Android port, while you are waiting for your significant other to get done shopping at the mall Now, lets talk about creating a robot that will turn on the printer, change materials, remove items from the bed, clean the bed, and perform Atomic Pulls as needed ;-)

Well for me, sometimes I will tweak my 3D models while on the train into work (1 hour commute each way). If I wanted to then print a 5-6hr job, it would be awesome if I could remotely upload my model to the printer and send it on it's way. Then when I get home it's already done, and I can physically take it off the build plate. You would just need to plan ahead by having your printer prepped with filament and turned on. Just an idea of why someone might like it.

I could be completely wrong, but if SandervG had a working version of that path cached, then wouldn't the browser try and load the cached version instead of hitting the server? But maybe "all" browsers always hit the server to check for the status codes before loading from cache.

Ok, just added in the settings that Cura 15.04.2 has for the Fast, Normal, High Quality, and Ultimate settings to that spreadsheet. Plus added in another column for Shell Thickness.

Here's a read-only copy of my google spreadsheet if anyone is interested in taking a copy for their own personal logs: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1c1Ys8i1aXXcb0GVBTfrbP8jMG-lQW83lahbFYQyP6oU/edit?usp=sharing

I figure since most of my prints take hours anyways, I might as well spend a few minutes writing down what I did for that print Yup, I went with Google Spreadsheets for this, here's a screen cap of the Materials page that I have all my filaments listed on. I of course don't have any real data yet as I just started to do this, and I cleared the single line of filament settings I used on my original block, as I only care about my current Olsson Block setup. You will also notice that I made a little section at the top for the Quick Print profiles in Cura. This way I can just make a note that I used Normal (N) and here is the extra tweaks I made to those settings (if any). Still need to go through and get all the other Quick Print settings, but gotta start somewhere.

Now that I finally got my Olsson Block installed, I thought I should actually start keeping a log of all my prints, settings used for materials, etc. I was curious what sort of data you are logging. Here's a quick overview of what I started logging this week, not sure if it's OCD enough, but I think it'll help me reproduce prints in the future. Material Tab Material: Brand - Filament Name Print Temp Bed Temp Layer Height Shell Thickness Fan Speed Flow Rate Print Speed Travel Speed Infill Speed Printer Profile: The profile I selected on the printer (PLA, ABS, Custom1, etc) Notes: Random notes I may have for said material, nozzle used, etc. Print Log Date Model: Name of the model I'm printing Material: Brand - Filament Name Settings: Any settings I tweaked just for this model File: Name of the GCode file Notes: Random notes, how long it took (based on cura), etc Google Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1c1Ys8i1aXXcb0GVBTfrbP8jMG-lQW83lahbFYQyP6oU/edit?usp=sharing

Yea, I stopped it as soon as I noticed this was all sorts of crapping out. After some atomic pulls, cleaning the bed, and also adding some Brim Support, I was able to print model finally. It was just because the back part was too thin to support itself while printing, so it ended up toppling over and all sorts of bad was happening after that.

Hmm, guess I should try one of my high speed SD Cards. But I've also had 0 issues with the performance of the cheap SD card my UM2 came with. Could just be one of those times where I don't know any different, so therefore I didn't notice the lag I also tend to only keep a max of 10-ish prints on my cards, when I'm done those .gcode files are moved to my NAS for later use if need be.

OSX - Chrome v46.0.2490.80 That link you gave is still showing 404 for me as well. I wonder if maybe you have a working (cached) version of that page SandervG ;-) Have you tried opening that page in an Incognito Window (Chrome) or similar so that it doesn't load the webpage from cache?

I shall try that, for now I just changed over to the Colorfabb Blue Grey PLA filament, from the Ultimaker Transparent PLA stuff I was using. Just using the "Normal" printer settings from Cura again, so we'll see how this print I'm doing now turns out.

Curious if anyone has seen this before? I had just did some Atomic cleaning, created a decent print, then the next day this started happening. Was just about to Atomic pull it again, but thought I'd ask if anyone else has seen this issue and if I'm just gonna have to Atomic'ly clean my hot end before every print? I did just order a Olsson Block, should be here this weekend. So maybe that will help clean up my issue. But I would like to make sure I have a working backup hot end just incase

When I tried to hit Next after the Vapor Treating page, I got a 404 error: https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/17900-ulti-evening-maintenance Wasn't sure if this is the best place to report this or not.

Is it recommend that I print one of those Fan Hoods for the Olsson Block? Such as this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-mount-um2-olsson-block Or if there is an even better one than this one.

Yay, just pressed the button and ordered the Olsson Block Kit and Temp Sensor (just in case).

Sweet, I will read through that once I get it in. I still need to install your Alternative Feeder, printed that around the time I got my printer, but the printer was toooo new for me to feel comfortable taking parts off. but I think that time as passed, time to MOD.

Thanks for the info, I'll make sure to get an extra temp sensor.

Some great info, thanks. I was actually looking to pick up the Olsson Block Starter Kit from the fbcr8 website. It comes with 4 tips and the tools needed. Seemed like a good bundle plus I get free shipping here in the States. Would the standard heater element work fine for now? Then upgrade the heater element after I learn how to use this new block + tips.

oh yea, and if you do end up getting this and mount the power supply inside it, you will want to ensure it's mounted at the same level, or higher, then the 3rd drawer. Otherwise if you fill up the bottom drawer with 10 spools of filament, it will bump into the power supply unit, and you won't be able to close that bottom drawer all the way.

Nope, seems about the same to me. Another thing I noticed, since those small drawers don't have the same depth as the larger bottom drawer, you could even mount the power supply in the inside the cabinet. Then just poke a hole at the top and bottom of the back for the power cords. There is about an extra 3" (depth) of empty space behind those drawers.

Thanks, just posted a pic of my whole corner ;-)

Here's my little corner (half of my home office) that I do various little hobbies. As you can see, I've bought a few things from IKEA. I have some 3D Printing, Legos (Technic, Mindstorm, etc), Electronics stuff, plus a bunch of other random stuff in my little corner. Just created a post on that IKEA Drawer unit I transferred my UM2 to.