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zumfab

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Everything posted by zumfab

  1. Rejoice, I'm printing again. A generic RepRap thermocouple board was available quickest. It has screw terminals instead of a plug, the pins are in a different order and the PCB is quite a bit bigger, but the basic chip is the same. After making an adapter wire to avoid cutting up my original wiring, the temperature indication was what it is supposed to be. The first print to test the whole affair has been a small adapter piece to mount it all neatly on top of the hotend, so the new PCB is nicely integrated, and came out nicely. Apparently the Ultimaker is not picky when it comes to thermocouple PCB's, with a bit of handywork it will take other versions without a problem.
  2. I was just considering maybe purchasing one of those nozzles for some experimentation. Would you recommend it?
  3. I think the UMO system is actually a bit more powerful than that of the UM2, due to the motor being reduced by gears. Might a herringbone feeder gear be a solution for you? That should be a lot quieter and probably saves you a lot of trouble. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40334/
  4. How functional are these threads? I experimented with a few a while ago, to augment bolt retention. I came to the conclusion it was not really worth the hassle, it is much easier and more functional to just embed a nut and create a tunnel to it. Threads just seem not to be designed for these kinds of plastics. I would love to hear your experiences, I might very well be overlooking some obvious gains.
  5. Ebay is too slow, though not that much slower than Ultimaker themselves. It does mean more local options are available. Parts have been ordered, I will report back on the accuracy of my earlier statements. However, I have to give credit to Ultimaker. Even when they had nothing to gain themselves, they helped me finding a quick solution to the problem. So very few companies tend to do this.
  6. After a little deliberation with Ultimaker it appears TC1, TC2 and the RepRap boards should be interchangeable without much problem. The most prominent difference should be the connectors.
  7. After coming to the conclusion that the thermocouple PCB is not functioning appropriately any more, I need to replace it. Due to the Ultimaker delivery time I am looking for other options, as I need to get printing. The board says it is TC2, which I assume stands for thermocouple (version) 2. When I look around, most other (replica) boards for sale are TC1 or do not have such a designation at all. However, the broken board uses a AD597A chip, while most replica or alternative boards either use a AD597 chip or AD597A chip. Should these all be compatible, or is there a notable difference between de TC1 and TC2 version, or between the AD597 and AD597A chip?
  8. Right, after getting access to another Ultimaker and swapping out parts it turns out the small thermocouple PCB is probably the culprit. Ultimaker sells these, but unfortunately has an expected delivery time of over a week. The board in question is a TC2 board, but I might get my hands on a TC1 board with more ease. Are those interchangeable?
  9. I have a similar problem. I disassembled the hotend to replace my teflon insulator. While fiddling with that I already noticed weird readings, but thought it had to do with the disassembled state of things. When everything was put back together, things turned out not to be working properly any more. Temperature reads okay when idle. Then I heat the hotend and the temperature starts climbing normally. Around 65 degrees it slows down and around 70 degrees it stops. The hotend gets hot enough to push PLA through manually with ease, so that seems to be normal temperature or above. That appears to work like it should. I reinstalled the thermocouple sensor, which seemed to be slightly loose, but that did not change anything. I checked the tiny wires to the thermocouple circuit board and refastened them. I disassembled the small circuit board to check for damage. I used another cable to connect to the main board, but no change. I feel I have checked pretty much every part of the chain and I do not know what to do any more. Is there any part that can partly break and produce these kinds of results? Because up to 65 degrees everything seems to work, after that it just fails. Oh, and I must add that sometimes there seems to be a temperature error, but I do not really understand why that happens sometimes, while other times it doesn't. Update: I fully removed the thermocouple from the heatsink and the readings seem a little high. Ambient temperature is indicated as 30-35 degrees and when I put the thing in a cup of cool water it reads 22. Both seem to read higher than they are, but I am not sure how the thing is calibrated. When I completely disconnect the sensor the reading is 74 degrees, while this guide says it should be ambient temperature. http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.3_PCB#Add-ons
  10. Excellent! Will that bake in the fancy Utimaker logo? It still makes me happy whenever I see that.
  11. Forgive me for possibly asking the obvious, but what parts will your design replace and which are retained? I understood these stepper drivers could be made as pretty much drop-in replacements for the current Ultimaker hardware, so I am not terribly sure why you are designing this - outside of you making a whole own printer, of course.
  12. It is neither of those, because I make sure to write the file to the hard drive first. The fact that Cura writes the same incomplete file twice confirms this idea, as a troublesome hard drive would not be expected to fail in the same consistent manner. Not only that, but you would also expect other obvious problems. I have started inspecting every file I print, but I would rather solve the problem than mitigate it. As I did not get to printing today, I cannot say whether the new version does the same. The ball is probably in my court now, but if anyone has any other ideas on what might cause this they are welcome
  13. I forgot to update this, but I finally got a chance to test the firmware. It all seems to work like it should. Very nice indeed!
  14. After trying to deal with the problem described here (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9478-umo-bed-does-not-lower-every-time-after-print/) I noticed the problem might be something different completely. Upon opening the G-code file of the troublesome print, I noticed the 'footer' found in other files was missing. Weird thing is that it is semi-random, but not completely. Whenever I delete the G-code file and rewrite it, the same incomplete file appears. This, to me, suggests that there is some kind of generation issue. One way to 'fix' it seems to be to move the object over the build plate and rewrite. Sometimes another partial G-code appears, but sometimes it does what it is supposed to do. It happens quite regularly though, and can be quite annoying, especially because it limits the control I have over the printing process. Is this a known issue? Cura seems to work fine when it works, it just stops short of a full file sometimes. Please note that this is happening under Cura 14.07. I just installed Cura 15.02.1 to see whether that changes anything.
  15. This is weird. Today I printed a long print via a controller and I got the same result. Luckily I was standing right next to it, so I could prevent major damage, but there still is a dimple visible. I also noticed it did not quite finish the last layer. A small patch of about 1 centimeter square was left unprinted. This is all quite odd, as the three hour print did not cause any trouble. Any ideas on how to fix this? Update: this is very strange. Looking at the G-code, the troubled print just seems to end: G0 F9000 X84.83 Y104.86 G1 F3000 X80.10 Y100.14 E3013.96344 G0 F9000 X79.54 Y100.14 G1 F3000 X84.26 Y104.86 E3014.00523 G0 F9000 X83.70 Y104.86 G1 While the correctly printing file has a footer: G1 F3000 X32.06 Y42.14 E116.01087 G0 F9000 X32.34 Y41.30 G1 F3000 X34.82 Y38.82 E116.03279 M107 G1 F2400 E111.53279 G0 F9000 X34.82 Y38.82 Z13.15 ;End GCode M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning ;CURA_PROFILE_STRING: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 I reexported the same file, and now a header appears. It seems Cura simply does not supply the full file at times. Is this a known problem?
  16. That looks surpisingly good. I must remember that, I am sure it will come in handy some day.
  17. As I am getting deeper into my project, I need to make more complicated parts that do not always neatly lay flat. There are several ways of dealing with this, but sometimes using the built-in Cura support generation or even Meshmixer won't suffice. Sometimes it is most efficient or just the cleanest to draw your own. I have looked at IRobertI's extruder, which employs home grown supports, and experimented a tiny bit, but I imagine other people did too. Right now my results are okay-ish, but they could probably be a lot cleaner. What are your experiences with this? What works and what doesn't?
  18. Where would I find that plugin? Do I really need to edit the plugin itself or is it the gcode that is produced? I have had little problems with USB too. The only problem is that the printer head sometimes does not correctly retract after a print, leaving it to melt the printed piece. I get the feeling that Ultimaker is not all too interesting in USB printing and leaves it as it is, while in most cases I prefer it over doing it via the controller. Much more fine control and flexibility that way.
  19. Ah, so it appears printing over USB is the problem. Somehow I get the feeling that USB printing is not thought of as relevant, while it can be quite useful when you need to iterate quickly. Not to mention the folks without any USB printing capabilities at all. Is there any chance this is going to be fixed?
  20. For the project I am currently printing I need to embed some nuts into the project. I noticed the pause at height plugin, which seemed very useful for this purpose. With the help of the layer view I made sure I had selected exactly the right layer and, sure enough, the printer neatly lowers the bed and pauses at the layer requested. So far, so good. However, I cannot figure out how to continue the print. Nowhere there is an option to resume printing. I fiddled around a bit until the print started all over again, causing the print to fail. How am I supposed to resume printing? I am printing via USB using the Pronterface interface.
  21. That was pretty much my idea too I am not sure I have enough travel left on the end stop slots, it looks to be somewhat close, but I will cross that bridge when I come to it.
  22. I am mostly interested in how much paint there actually is on the model. You tell us you primed it. Do you use a brush or an airbrush? Do you dilute the paint a lot before applying? Normally you would try to keep the paint layers as thin as possible, but I can imagine that in the case of prints with their visible lines you would want to do the opposite, or maybe fill it with a good filling primer beforehand. I did some model painting in the past, so I am vaguely aware of the basics, though some changes occurred since then. It seems airbrush is the way to go nowadays, while simple brushwork, layering and a lot of patience was how it used to be done. Nice to see your work, it really shows how far you can push good prints.
  23. That looks very nice, it is hard to tell that it is a print at all. Can you divulge your painting process?
  24. As I understand, they designed their boxes to be a stable environment, so no dessicants would be needed.
  25. At the moment I am just intending to print carbon filled filament for a specific project. It would be nice to be able to print with as many materials as possible though, as that is one of my goals anyway. When it comes to wear and consumables, the full metal E3D v6 hotend looks like the way to go. I hear that it prints well with ABS, but that PLA can be a hassle sometimes. Anyway, that is all for a later time, as right now I am only going to replace the nozzle with a stainless steel variety to prevent excessive wear. What would be the best way to compensate for those 3,5 mm? Through software or by adjusting the end stop?
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