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Everything posted by michaelvk

  1. Man, that's AWSOME!!!! How have you managed to get the parts modeled? I´m looking since month/years for minigun or gatling plans to make a 3D model, but without success... Sorry about the late reply, it's been a while since I've been here.. I may have mentioned it before, but the model was found on 3D Warehouse, made by user thespoonkiller. The model isn't 3D printable and able to function out of the box, as the parts need tweaking for tolerances, but otherwise it's all there: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/user.html?id=0015491875973132162600283&nav=models
  2. I print everything at low speed and low temperature. Say inner wall at around 40 and outer at 18. Temperature is usually around 186 degrees and the bed set to 60. Layer adhesion seems fine, but these are small parts and fragile anyway. The only place where layer adhesion was a problem is with the barrels, where I set the infill too low.
  3. Thank you! I put it on instagram and twitter ages ago, but was persuaded to share it with the community here.. The thing is meant to be a stand alone model which will eventually be perched on it's pintle mount as found on a Chinook or Blackhawk door mount. Here's a video of the bolt and delinker turning together..
  4. Thank you! 0.25 nozzle using Faberdashery Robot silver at around 186 degrees.
  5. A few months ago I upgraded my Ultimaker 2 with the Olsson block, allowing me to produce finer detail with the .25mm nozzle. As a test project I decided to do a 1/4 scale minigun. I found one on 3D Warehouse (model therefor courtesy of a chap that goes by the name of Spoonkiller, link here: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/user.html?id=0015491875973132162600283 ).. The model however needs a fair amount of work to make it printable.. The material I'm using is Faberdashery's robot silver PLA. Anyway, the work so far: The main housing: The clutch and delinker sprocket: The rotor
  6. There it is! Thanks! (After over two years of using this thing you'd think I'd have learned by now..) What threw me is that it didn't give the same issue in any of the other machine settings..
  7. Here's a weird thing. I loaded a part into Cura 2.1.2 and it auto scaled it to 85%. The strange thing is that the part was only 65mm tall. I only noticed it was auto scaling (I've since turned that off) when I found the part to be a lot smaller than I thought it should be. I then scaled the part back to 100% (101 to compensate for shrinkage), and it then refused to slice. I double checked the part for hidden mesh, but there wasn't any. I then changed the machine from Ultimaker 2 regular to Extended and it was suddenly fine. Having had a look in Cura 2.1.2 now, scaling an object, it appears th
  8. Weirdly my machine yanked the foam clean out of its casing and it's now in the bottom of the feed unit.. An internal dust filter, so to speak.. I may need to fish that out again, I think..
  9. I arrived at work this morning to find a nice and tightly wound up spool of filament on one end, a 1/4 finished print on the other and a ground up bit in the middle.. Needless to say I was a bit miffed. This is in my opinion the only serious flaw in the standard UM2 setup. I'll be taking these tips to heart, as well as trimming the material to the appropriate length, plus 80cm, for any print I can't stick around long enough to babysit. On the plus side, I think the few hours(?) of stress free turning may have actually done the filament feed some good.
  10. Thanks! Although sadly, as it's for a TV show, you'll have to wait until April/May next year to see what it is..
  11. Actually the 'windswept' look was on that corner, as well as the corner diagonally on the other side, so fan or no fan, it was the same on both sides. Either way, dropping the temperature 5 degrees helped a lot.
  12. Easy does it was the key ultimately. Just lowering the temperature cleared it up immediately. I'm sure I'll end up ruining the print in some novel way down the line though
  13. It appears I answered my own question.. Temperature was a fraction too high.
  14. So here's an interesting one.. I'm printing a sword pommel for this gig I'm working on, and for some reason, on diametrically opposing corners, I'm getting this weird windswept (like ice in The day after tomorrow) effect on trailing edges. I figured it's a form of stringing, but can't understand why it only does it on those two corners.. It's by no means lost (the underlaying profile is intact, so there's no deformation), as it can be scraped/sanded back, but it still puzzles me. I'm using Ultimaker's own (I've got some Colorfabb, but find UM PLA to be crisper in detail) PLA, currently print
  15. Well, just went ahead and did it now. It went fine, printed the first layer a wee bit less than usual, but looks good, and didn't squish a pool of molten plastic around. Excellent! In future I shall also add pics..
  16. Firmware version is 14.03 on the machine, Cura is 14.07.. The thing was printing fine this morning.. If a little high on the first layer (I could see the head was separated from the filament, not touching it at all. So I think a switching off and on again may have cleared its head a bit, ridding itself of whatever caused it to go superclose to the head for the first layers yesterday). Either way, I'll take the thing home with me this evening and have another go there, were I can focus on it a bit more. Basically: I shouldn't have screwed around with it. But it's all a learning experience, e
  17. Ah right.. So set zero to the glass itself. Won't that have a knock on effect for first layer thickness? I must say that the paper thickness does seem a little unscientific. But doesn't the machine then take that into account when it prints, by adding the thickness of the paper? Or does it keep that distance as a safety to keep it from hitting the glass? The thing I found weird is that it was like it was adding more than the thickness of said sheet of paper to compensate for that offset. The first layer and skirt went down transparently thin, despite a 0.3mm first layer height. There's also pl
  18. Just measured the thickness of the outline (skirt?).. A rather skinny 0.03mm
  19. Hi all. Had my UM2 a week now, very happy and impressed, and a weeks worth of printing little greeblies trouble free-ish (still getting the hang of making models for printing, instead of pictures..). However.. I decided this morning to recalibrate the bed for some reason. Followed the same process as I did before, using a stack of card (and the second time a piece of 1mm plastic, measured on digital calipers). Now here's the weirdness. Despite using as accurate a measure as I could, the first layer, instead of 0.3mm, was squished paper thin on the bed, with the resultant following few layer
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