densohax
-
Posts
34 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by densohax
-
-
Yeah I saw this video, I'll give it a try..
Actually, I had to change the PT100 on my heatbed recently, maybe there's actually a problem with the PCB connections, because the PT100 was reporting temps correctly but sometimes after the print there was the temp sensor error, although the bed was correctly heated..
-
Yes I did.
It feels like there is not enough heat in the plastic. There is no smell now and the plastic is not very fluid... My heat sensor might be bad, although it boils water at 100 celsius.. I have to find a better way to test it...
-
So it's not going very nicely... I have under extrusion problems, the feeder motor started skipping and I am at 250 celsius with ABS using the vespel spacer + teflon spacer.
It looks like I might have to drill the inside diameter a little, or maybe the head is not heating as it should, I am a bit tired of this issue, I hope Ultimaker will find a good solution.
-
Just wanted to chime in! So my setup finally failed (burnt plastic formed between the hotend and the PTFE coupler) .. So I am now using the vespel spacer between the teflon part and hotend..
-
I have the same issue. It would be nice to fix this!
-
I had a look at the PTFE-spacer again yesterday:
It has logged 225 hours now with the 1 mm Vespel washer protecting it now.
Since I missed logging some prints it probably has been running 250-300 hours by now though.
I have been switching back and forth between ABS and PLA, and the last few hours I printed XT-CF20.
No problems at all so far.
Swordriff will hopefully have similar washers "I2K", available soon for those of you who want to try.
I am thinking of making a more advanced version of the spacer, taking advantage of both PTFE, Vespel and a heat sink.
Hopefully there will be time to try this at some point.
Sounds good
I'm still on my PTFE red tubing coming from my Thing-O-Matic with no issues here...
-
I am about to test my vespel as well, my setup is currently failing in retraction.
-
so i'm going to quote quite the old topic;
Why, we all know what happens with the spacer.
You should replace it with better material.
-
On the other hand, I tested an ABS component in the same way and PC printed hot was obviously stronger.
Printing hot and slow seems to help and PC prints quite nicely actually. Drying the filament in an oven at 120C for a few hours improves printing quality a lot too.
Is PC as stiff as PLA or flexible like ABS ?
-
On my side, I didn't test the vespel yet, my setup is not failing, even in an enclosure..
I'm planning heavy printing soon, so we'll see if I need it! If I don't need it, I will be happy to send the vespel to someone who needs it.
Here's something I'm currently designing and will be printed soon (home made bearings, electroformed plastic and hopefully diy hydraulics (I'm trying to polish an ABS copper-electroplated liner that will fit in my cylinders) )
Here's my enclosure setup btw, I will need ventilation for the bottom PCB. (I still don't understand why the red tubing of my MK6 is not failing)
-
A while ago I made this little contraption to clean the air in my room.. It works well enough, the air feels fresher..
It's an ozone purifier I made using a high voltage power supply I got from a neon transformer for PC:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16800888036
I simply made a little board with an ATTINY microcontroller that switches on/off a relay to activate periodically the electrostatic plate..
Works pretty well, but I don't use it because frankly, I don't like electrostatics around my equipment
-
Very nice of you 3Poro, thanks again!
-
I don't think you are very unfortunate, at least for living in Canada
Sorry for being unclear - I didn't mean I wouldn't mail the washers outside of the European Union. It's the Vespel rod I don't want to send outside of the EU as its value is too high. If Canadian customs wouldn't collect any duties on it, the Soviet European Union certainly will once the rest of it would be returned to me.
On the other hand, as Vespel is (somewhat) more affordable in the US (through Amazon, as I wrote above), it doesn't make sense to send the stuff over from the Tax Heights (EU).
So - you'll get #1 if you just send me your mailing address as a private message. No need to pay for shipping, unless you require some super express delivery.
Oh I misread that post!
Ok I'll send you a pm as soon as I get home, thanks a lot!!
-
Unfortunately, I live in canada, but if you accept that I pay the shipping, I'd be happy to have #1!
-
I just read about vespel, sounds like a good material! Do you have a good place where we can source this from Canada or US ?
-
I want to put the whole unit (ultimaker 2) in a metal enclosure, so I can filter out the smell of ABS.. I was wondering if I should worry about the mainboard being too hot?
Should I add a fan to the mainboard that would blow some fresh air, or I shall be alright?
I figure the ambiant temperature in a big metal box is going to be around 40 celsius max, unless I am mistaken..
-
OK, I have GOT to try this. Turn an aluminum insulator with heat fins (like an E3D) and coat the inside with this
Then use dual fans if I have still have problems with PLA prints... Or just have one of my machines ABS only with this insulator.
That's an interesting product! Thanks a lot for the heads up!
-
How about a ceramic washer for insulation between teflon piece and the brass? It shouldn't cause enough friction to be an issue.
I have some ceramic rods, just didn't spend the time to play with my new diamond tooling
I'll let you know if/when my new setup fails.. In the meantime, I'm still very happy using the red ptfe that came with the makerbot thing-o-matic. It prints wonderfully!
-
LIKE I WROTE IN MY ORIGINAL MESSAGE: "IF I WOULDN'T HAVE THE DOME AROUND MY PRINTER, THE NOISE FROM THE NEW FANS WOULD DRIVE ME NUTS."
YOU CAN TRY TO REDUCE THEIR VOLTAGE BY 10% OR 20%.
I HAVE 2 OF THE TORNADO FANS, SO I NEED TO SHOUT TO HEAR MY OWN VOICE
I went back to the original fan, it was taking a LOT longer to heat the head and the temperature was oscillating quite a lot.. It would need some calibration to keep that fan, or an enclosed box. -
Here's my 2nd PTFE isolator, the new glass-infused type:
...after some weeks of use. Can anyone quote a price for 10pcs?
Again, that's EXACTLY what happened to my spacer! The ridge inside, at the same exact place!
-
Please check the today's posts on this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6307-um2-twin-tornadoes/
Maybe you'll not face the same side effect as I did, but just in case - you probably need to control the temperature readings after installing more powerful fan(s) to make sure there are no surprises. I'm lucky I caught the issue so quickly - I can imagine myself hunting down such a problem for days (and nights)...
Just installed one tornado fan! WOW SO LOUD!! I can't live with that! XD
However, they are pushing quite a lot for their size!
Did you silenced them a little? My ears are bleeding as I type this!
Looks like the rods are resonating with the fan, amplifying the noise..
-
Tightly srewing means, that you can replace it with a stronger material, less weakly than PTFE, e.g reinforced glassfiber/ carbonfiber PEEK -bushing ...?! Is Friction really such a big problem?
Yes friction is one problem. I did try ninja flex with my redntubing and it did not work.. So I drilled the red ptfe as Cleven suggested and it helped a lot!!
I will try to put a ceramic sleeve between the tubing and the hot end, I am unsure if it is a good idea yet, but my modification seems to work right now, we'll see for how long.
Also, for the record, I had 110 hours on my printer before failure of the teflon part. and it did exactly as you explained!
-
I wasn't sure if this issue was addressed, I know from my searches on this forums that people are often adding "tornado" concentrators on the fans. But the off-center issue wasn't mentionned (I think).
I happen to print in abs and when doing cylindrical parts with 100% infill, it's clear that the off-center fan at the right is not pushing enough air to the tip, because my parts are still extremly soft to the right and this creates some plastic burns when the plastic touches the hot tip for a long time (the warping of molten plastic is going toward the tip).
Is there an easy mod/relocating of the fans that could prevent this off-center air flow?
-
Please check the today's posts on this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6307-um2-twin-tornadoes/
Maybe you'll not face the same side effect as I did, but just in case - you probably need to control the temperature readings after installing more powerful fan(s) to make sure there are no surprises. I'm lucky I caught the issue so quickly - I can imagine myself hunting down such a problem for days (and nights)...
Thanks for the heads-up!
I was reading your thread actually and was wondering how much you could draw from the power on the fan..
Looks like the ADC is quite sensitive to noise, maybe we need some shielding as well in the wiring?
The side fans are PWM driven? If so, maybe they are the cause of the misreading of the ADC? I had the fans to 100% with PLA but with ABS I am between 20 and 50% .. Maybe this could be a problem...
Btw, I'm quite sure my temperature is off as well, I will certainly try to modify the firmware eventually to get more accuracy out of the temperature sensor.
Teflon spacer replacement
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Ok so my problem is that the vespel spacer didn't sit on the hot end tip and it went up and so it plugged between the vespel and hot tip..
Really a simple issue after all, but I broke the vespel. So I'm back with the original teflon spacer.