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  1. Actually I can see much more "echoing" effect on UM2's prints to be honest. At this moment one of our UM2's is set to 1000 for acceleration and 10 for Jerk to avoid that effect. I would love to see some upgrade coming to UM2, direct drive (flex-drive) and 1.75mm filament. Direct drive with 1.75mm is so precise ! Ultimaker - please think about it. Working with 2.85mm filament and bowden tube can be (and it actually really is) very unstable. I would like to see 1.75mm filament in your offer as well. I don't understand why you're limiting your sale only to 2.85mm. I know, yours printers use only 2.85mm but there is a huge market for 1.75mm filaments
  2. If you use the same slicer (for example as myself, Simplify3D) and the same speed settings then both printers will finish at that same time, only difference will be acceleration and jerk speeds which can be different in each printer. Nozzle diameter is also the same so no difference here either. At this moment all acceleration speed in my Flashforge is set to "quality", but you can also set it for "speed" or completely manually if you like. With Sailfish firmware you can go really crazy with acceleration speed without losing quality that's for sure. In my previous video you could see exact same item printed (black stand with UM2 and White UV stand with Flashforge) however two different slicers were used, Cura for UM2 and Makerbot Markerware for Flashforge. Cura: 0.2mm layer hight 250mm/s movement speed 20mm/s first layer 50mm/s printing speed 30mm/s printing speed for outer wall 15% infill Makerware: 0.2mm layer hight 150mm/s movement speed 20mm/s first layer 90mm/s printing speed 40mm/s printing speed for outer wall 20% infill UM2 needed 2:40h to finish it were Flashforge was ready in 1:38h with significantly better quality. Yesterday I've 3D printed some other test items. I'am so impressed with quality of sharp or "pointy" edges, UM2 used to give us some mess at this points (small blob of filament instead of sharp/pointy finish) As for dual extrusion we haven't done much yet. You have to remember that before you print anything with two extruders you can to calibrate them properly for every filament unless you need just "OK"quality. You are dealing with two extruders so you have to perform extrusion test for each extruder separately, each extruder must extrude exact same amount of filament. Below you can se my very first attempt for dual extrusion print In our case thing were different because we needed dual extruder 3D printer only to be able to print more complicated models which require a lot of support (which now can be printed with PVA filament and dissolved). You also have to remember about "purge walls" otherwise your dual extrusion print will be complete mess !! That's really bad example (no purge walls)
  3. You mean fan duct ? You can find it here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-base-um2
  4. I've decided to do yet another test, I know UM2 can do better. This time with my favourite Ultimaker Silver Metallic PLA Not too bad - but Since last time my Flashforge have got its fan upgrade already mounted so now it can achieve even more detailed prints. So time for another run with this printer Result - 3:0 for Flashforge but this time UM2 was really close
  5. Truth is that you need experience to achieve good results with both printers. Both printers require good quality filaments, both printers have to be properly calibrated as well. Calibration of Flashforge is very easy. Since both our UM2's suffer with underextrusion issue calibration is not that easy. UM2 on the left hand side (which I've printed Ultimaker Robot with) has iRoberts extruder upgrade which helped a lot but did not solve the issue completely. Ultimaker Team did not came up with any solution either so don't blame me for that. All you can read on other threads is "print slower", "print hotter" etc.
  6. Believe me or not, even if I use different colour in Flashforge it will be the same. This wasn't transparent material, for test I've used White to Blue UV PLA filament http://reprap.me/filament/pla-1-7mm/pla-1-7mm-white-to-blue.html Of course if you want I can do another print with different colour on either printer. I've had much better prints of Ultimaker Robot before, I can't remember with which filaments (Ultimaker Red and Ultimaker Silver Metallic that's for sure). Don't take me wrong, Im not bitching on Ultimaker, I love both ours UM2's since we got them. Im just impressed how good Chinese printers are these days, not all of them of course. For example Flashforge Creator Pro is much much better than Wanhao D4S even if they looks almost identical.
  7. Hi guys. Sorry for late reply but I haven't had much time to make some comparison for you. Anyway, here's our setup: I didn't upgrade our Flashforge with additional cooling fan yet but I gonna do it later this week, everything is waiting for me You've asked for Ultimaker Robot so here you go. Slicer used for Flashforge - Simplify3D, 0.2mm layer hight, 40mm/s, 10 seconds minimal layer time. Slicer used for Ultimaker 2 - I've used original gcode which come with the printed on SD card, so don't know what's the settings are used by Ultimaker team. Result - 1:0 for Flashforge even without cooling fan Ok, another round. I gonna give another chance to UM2 by using exact same slicer and exact same settings as for Flashforge. This time Simplify3D for UM2 Result - 2:0 for Flashforge Creator Pro also known as "cheap Chinese rubbish printer" For Flashforge I've used really cheap filament from reprap.me Denmark ( €13.33 for 1kg !) http://reprap.me/filament/pla-1-7mm UM2 were using white Ultimaker PLA (€31.50 for 750 gram) https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/18/PLAWhite BTW Flashforge Creator Pro comes with Sailfish accelerated firmware right out of the box which is great. I've also recorded some video
  8. There is nothing wrong with Chinese 3D printers if you go with well known brands. We used to use two UM2's but lately we needed to get another 3D printer but this time with two extruders. We ended up with Flashforge Creator Pro. Believe me or not but print quality and speed which we can achieve with as you called "cheap Chinese crap" are far better than anything from UM2 ! This printer is just amazing. Yes, it has smaller build plate but its big enough for our needs. Right out of the box its missing only two things, glass plate and cooling fan. We've solved these issues already no problem. Spare parts are very, very cheap and are available just about everywhere. For example pack of 10 nozzles cost about €13-€15 shipped. UM2 is fast only on the paper, you gonna have to print at 30-50mm/s anyway. Don't think if its made in Europe and its expensive so its must be great which is simple not true. Most annoying is its underextrusion issue which is not solved for a very long time.
  9. Same here. I just hate those new LED lights shipped with new UM2's I would like to replace them with old ones which are proper white in colour and very bright ! Old one on the left hand side
  10. I've ordered these of eBay yesterday and I gonna apply them to iRobert's feeder as soon as I get them. I'll also add some "sleeve" for bearing with groove/guide for filament
  11. I gonna need more test but here's what's happened. Our older printer (August 2014) failed to print anything yesterday morning. Extruder motor was spinning, no skipping or anything but it wouldn't push any material through, not enough of filament anyway (material flow set to 130% all the time lately). I've printed couple test with very nasty results Then I took whole feeder apart and that's what I have found ! I know, friction, because of that the filament were slipping off the bearing and it wasn't pushed any further by the motor. Unfortunately this part is not available to purchase at Ultimaker's website (why?). Thanks God we do have second UM2 !! I've printed out iRobert's V6 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two and https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-iroberti-s-feeder-v6-yoke-and-hub-with-guide part as well After quick setting up the tension I was able to print with new feeder straight away, no issues so far. Result - 100% covered top layers from edge to edge, no gaps, no nothing Box 30x30x5 0.2mm layer hight 220*C hot end 55*C bed temp 50mm/s print speed 15% infill 6x top/bottom layers material flow 100%
  12. opit78

    Fan speed?

    Not you only have got confused with this, no worries
  13. opit78

    Fan speed?

    I think you don't understand what minimum and maximum fan speeds are doing. "Fan speed minimum" is regular speed at which your fans gonna spin all the time till "minimal layer time (sec)" is reached, then they gonna speed up (to 85% in your case). "Kick" could be fully customisable. Duration of "fan kick" and speed % needed so everybody could tweak that to its own printer. That would be very handy IMO. We're using two UM2 printer, each printer has different fans fitted, one starts spinning at 15% were other need at least 35%. We're getting different results while using the same gcode.
  14. For us that's the business not a hobby, we need good quality prints no matter what. We've tried so many things so far with no luck, new nozzle (even two), new teflon insulator, new fans and who knows what else. Both our UM2's are is great condition and always well maintained. You can print 210-220C, that's your choice, but won't be surprised if you see all those gaps on the top. You are right, printer should work at 210C but UM2 is not, what can we do ?
  15. 210*C is way too low IMO. Since we have no real solution for this issue, we have to print much much hotter. As I said before only 240-245C and 105-110% flow rate works for us (on both UM2 here, with Ultimaker PLA filament). If you're printing with high temps then you have to clean the nozzle (atomic) very often, for us that's 2-3 times a week or every time before we change the colour.
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