opit78
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Posts posted by opit78
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If you use the same slicer (for example as myself, Simplify3D) and the same speed settings then both printers will finish at that same time, only difference will be acceleration and jerk speeds which can be different in each printer.
Nozzle diameter is also the same so no difference here either.
At this moment all acceleration speed in my Flashforge is set to "quality", but you can also set it for "speed" or completely manually if you like.
With Sailfish firmware you can go really crazy with acceleration speed without losing quality that's for sure.
In my previous video you could see exact same item printed (black stand with UM2 and White UV stand with Flashforge) however two different slicers were used, Cura for UM2 and Makerbot Markerware for Flashforge.
Cura:
0.2mm layer hight
250mm/s movement speed
20mm/s first layer
50mm/s printing speed
30mm/s printing speed for outer wall
15% infill
Makerware:
0.2mm layer hight
150mm/s movement speed
20mm/s first layer
90mm/s printing speed
40mm/s printing speed for outer wall
20% infill
UM2 needed 2:40h to finish it were Flashforge was ready in 1:38h with significantly better quality.
Yesterday I've 3D printed some other test items.
I'am so impressed with quality of sharp or "pointy" edges, UM2 used to give us some mess at this points (small blob of filament instead of sharp/pointy finish)
As for dual extrusion we haven't done much yet.
You have to remember that before you print anything with two extruders you can to calibrate them properly for every filament unless you need just "OK"quality.
You are dealing with two extruders so you have to perform extrusion test for each extruder separately, each extruder must extrude exact same amount of filament.
Below you can se my very first attempt for dual extrusion print
In our case thing were different because we needed dual extruder 3D printer only to be able to print more complicated models which require a lot of support (which now can be printed with PVA filament and dissolved).
You also have to remember about "purge walls" otherwise your dual extrusion print will be complete mess !!
That's really bad example (no purge walls)
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I've decided to do yet another test, I know UM2 can do better.
This time with my favourite Ultimaker Silver Metallic PLA
Not too bad - but
Since last time my Flashforge have got its fan upgrade already mounted so now it can achieve even more detailed prints.
So time for another run with this printer
Result - 3:0 for Flashforge but this time UM2 was really close
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Truth is that you need experience to achieve good results with both printers.
Both printers require good quality filaments, both printers have to be properly calibrated as well.
Calibration of Flashforge is very easy.
Since both our UM2's suffer with underextrusion issue calibration is not that easy.
UM2 on the left hand side (which I've printed Ultimaker Robot with) has iRoberts extruder upgrade which helped a lot but did not solve the issue completely.
Ultimaker Team did not came up with any solution either so don't blame me for that. All you can read on other threads is "print slower", "print hotter" etc.
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Believe me or not, even if I use different colour in Flashforge it will be the same.
This wasn't transparent material, for test I've used White to Blue UV PLA filament http://reprap.me/filament/pla-1-7mm/pla-1-7mm-white-to-blue.html
Of course if you want I can do another print with different colour on either printer.
I've had much better prints of Ultimaker Robot before, I can't remember with which filaments (Ultimaker Red and Ultimaker Silver Metallic that's for sure).
Don't take me wrong, Im not bitching on Ultimaker, I love both ours UM2's since we got them.
Im just impressed how good Chinese printers are these days, not all of them of course.
For example Flashforge Creator Pro is much much better than Wanhao D4S even if they looks almost identical.
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Hi guys.
Sorry for late reply but I haven't had much time to make some comparison for you.
Anyway, here's our setup:
I didn't upgrade our Flashforge with additional cooling fan yet but I gonna do it later this week, everything is waiting for me
You've asked for Ultimaker Robot so here you go.
Slicer used for Flashforge - Simplify3D, 0.2mm layer hight, 40mm/s, 10 seconds minimal layer time.
Slicer used for Ultimaker 2 - I've used original gcode which come with the printed on SD card, so don't know what's the settings are used by Ultimaker team.
Result - 1:0 for Flashforge even without cooling fan
Ok, another round.
I gonna give another chance to UM2 by using exact same slicer and exact same settings as for Flashforge. This time Simplify3D for UM2
Result - 2:0 for Flashforge Creator Pro also known as "cheap Chinese rubbish printer"
For Flashforge I've used really cheap filament from reprap.me Denmark ( €13.33 for 1kg !) http://reprap.me/filament/pla-1-7mm
UM2 were using white Ultimaker PLA (€31.50 for 750 gram) https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/18/PLAWhite
BTW Flashforge Creator Pro comes with Sailfish accelerated firmware right out of the box which is great.
I've also recorded some video
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There is nothing wrong with Chinese 3D printers if you go with well known brands.
We used to use two UM2's but lately we needed to get another 3D printer but this time with two extruders.
We ended up with Flashforge Creator Pro.
Believe me or not but print quality and speed which we can achieve with as you called "cheap Chinese crap" are far better than anything from UM2 !
This printer is just amazing.
Yes, it has smaller build plate but its big enough for our needs.
Right out of the box its missing only two things, glass plate and cooling fan. We've solved these issues already no problem.
Spare parts are very, very cheap and are available just about everywhere. For example pack of 10 nozzles cost about €13-€15 shipped.
UM2 is fast only on the paper, you gonna have to print at 30-50mm/s anyway.
Don't think if its made in Europe and its expensive so its must be great which is simple not true.
Most annoying is its underextrusion issue which is not solved for a very long time.
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Same here.
I just hate those new LED lights shipped with new UM2's
I would like to replace them with old ones which are proper white in colour and very bright !
Old one on the left hand side
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I've ordered these of eBay yesterday and I gonna apply them to iRobert's feeder as soon as I get them.
I'll also add some "sleeve" for bearing with groove/guide for filament
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I gonna need more test but here's what's happened.
Our older printer (August 2014) failed to print anything yesterday morning. Extruder motor was spinning, no skipping or anything but it wouldn't push any material through, not enough of filament anyway (material flow set to 130% all the time lately).
I've printed couple test with very nasty results
Then I took whole feeder apart and that's what I have found !
I know, friction, because of that the filament were slipping off the bearing and it wasn't pushed any further by the motor.
Unfortunately this part is not available to purchase at Ultimaker's website (why?).
Thanks God we do have second UM2 !!
I've printed out iRobert's V6 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two and https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-iroberti-s-feeder-v6-yoke-and-hub-with-guide part as well
After quick setting up the tension I was able to print with new feeder straight away, no issues so far.
Result - 100% covered top layers from edge to edge, no gaps, no nothing
Box 30x30x5
0.2mm layer hight
220*C hot end
55*C bed temp
50mm/s print speed
15% infill
6x top/bottom layers
material flow 100%
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Not you only have got confused with this, no worries
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I think for such low rpm there is really no need, or is it?
But in the Cura-Expert Settings> "Cool", it is possible to set the minimum starting speed, for example, to xx percent.
With these settings I am quite satisfied:
Fan full on at height 3mm
Fan speed minimum 25%
Fan speed maximum 85% (... because otherwise it rattles at 100 percent)
The other settings I have left as Default.
Probably a kickstart for low rpm will not work reliably on each machine, because of the fan-manufacturing tolerances.
Markus
I think you don't understand what minimum and maximum fan speeds are doing.
"Fan speed minimum" is regular speed at which your fans gonna spin all the time till "minimal layer time (sec)" is reached, then they gonna speed up (to 85% in your case).
"Kick" could be fully customisable. Duration of "fan kick" and speed % needed so everybody could tweak that to its own printer.
That would be very handy IMO. We're using two UM2 printer, each printer has different fans fitted, one starts spinning at 15% were other need at least 35%. We're getting different results while using the same gcode.
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For us that's the business not a hobby, we need good quality prints no matter what.
We've tried so many things so far with no luck, new nozzle (even two), new teflon insulator, new fans and who knows what else.
Both our UM2's are is great condition and always well maintained.
You can print 210-220C, that's your choice, but won't be surprised if you see all those gaps on the top.
You are right, printer should work at 210C but UM2 is not, what can we do ?
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210*C is way too low IMO.
Since we have no real solution for this issue, we have to print much much hotter. As I said before only 240-245C and 105-110% flow rate works for us (on both UM2 here, with Ultimaker PLA filament).
If you're printing with high temps then you have to clean the nozzle (atomic) very often, for us that's 2-3 times a week or every time before we change the colour.
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For us only solution was to increase temperature to 245*C (Ultimaker PLA) and flow rate to 105-110%.
Still, that's only temporary solution, high temp is no good for detailed prints.
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You can look at your own printer, why should I prove anything ?
Remove the bowden tube and just look inside.
Reinserting the bowden tube while some filaments is inside is very often not possible, you won't be able to "pass" this bearing.
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I've informed UM technical support about that issue long time ago but they never reply to me about that.
There is one possible error in the design of UM2.
Y axis's bearing is squeezing the bowden tube.
Please take a look at the picture below so you see what I'm talking about.
Same problem on left and right side.
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I don't know why but to me it look like burned PLA. Is getting better on the top because of faster printing speed (cooler PLA)
Faulty hotend temp sensor ?!
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Your glass plate should be replaced by Ultimaker straight away, they won't have any problems to send you one I believe but it might take some time (technical support is pretty slow)
Regarding screws, just take a dremel and grind them down
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14.07 before and 14.09 right now, same result
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Same results here on both our UM2's, same pattern.
After proper calibration is much better now.
X axis was almost ok but Y axis was miscalibrated on both machines.
On the old one that was 4mm !! You could see it with naked eye. New UM2 was off by 2mm (difference between two yellow lines on the picture below)
Next common problem, build plate screws sticking out so proper bed levelling was impossible to achieve (come on Ultimaker, are you serious ?! )
Quick fix, take the dremel into your hand
Also, I don't like new LED lights. Old were very bright and white, new ones are bit dimmer with purple tint
They did some changes to the electronics as well IMO. New UM2 is whisper quiet, you can't hear the motors at all (motors are exactly the same IMO). Old one is not too bad but new one is really amazing.
Other than that still, cheap pulleys, even cheaper fans (first thing to replace in every machine).
Ohh, and one more difference between them two (everything is well put together and tight)
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Ultimaker is going to send us new nozzle block and new teflon isolator and hopefully that will solve our issue.
In the meantime we're printing at 220C and 130% flow with ColorFabb Glowfill with pretty good results.
We've tried 230-240C and 120% flow however all prints were really "hairy" (known issue with Colorfabb with higher temperatures).
I've found one more issue with the printer head which might cause underextrusion but before I can tell what is this I need to confirm that with Ultimakers technical support.
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Can anyone prepare the GCODE of the test box 30x30x5mm for UM2 but generated in other slicer than Cura?
0.2mm layer hight, 50mm/s print speed, 20% infill, 6-7 top layers.
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Your hotend looks pretty good for me.
Did you tried to print it little bit hotter yet?
I haven't got any reply from Ultimaker just yet but in the meantime I'am printing with 235C-240C and material flow set to 124%, filament diameter is back to 2.85mm for now.
Comparison of Ultimaker 2 to Mankati XT
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Actually I can see much more "echoing" effect on UM2's prints to be honest. At this moment one of our UM2's is set to 1000 for acceleration and 10 for Jerk to avoid that effect.
I would love to see some upgrade coming to UM2, direct drive (flex-drive) and 1.75mm filament.
Direct drive with 1.75mm is so precise !
Ultimaker - please think about it.
Working with 2.85mm filament and bowden tube can be (and it actually really is) very unstable.
I would like to see 1.75mm filament in your offer as well. I don't understand why you're limiting your sale only to 2.85mm.
I know, yours printers use only 2.85mm but there is a huge market for 1.75mm filaments