danz409
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Posts posted by danz409
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went to sketchucation.com seems to be some sort of plugin manager. however when i download i get some rbz file. i have no idea how this works...
nvm got it installed. i had to make an account. did so. downloaded STL import/export v2 from didier bur: and still don't have the option to do so. plugin is enabled but still nothing. soo much frustration.
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There is a plugin for sketchup that allows you to export files as STL's got to sketchucation.com. Also cura supports DAE files. I use sketchup for all my prints so far with no issues. Just make sure the model is solid.
went to sketchucation.com seems to be some sort of plugin manager. however when i download i get some rbz file. i have no idea how this works...
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There is a plugin for sketchup that allows you to export files as STL's got to sketchucation.com. Also cura supports DAE files. I use sketchup for all my prints so far with no issues. Just make sure the model is solid.
yea. i have no problem with cura. that's what i have been using. however as mentioned above. its probably whats causing my supporting issues.
ill try out that sketchuchation and see if meshmixer takes STLs
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this would be a usable product. however apparently sketchup is doing dumb things. i'm no longer able to export aside DAE and KMZ formats, this program is not comparable with ether.
do you know of anything that is compatible with DAE or KMZ
or a way to bring back my old export options on sketchup? i know i used to be able to export a .obj with it at one time
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so i'm doing some test prints for a part and glad i'm not wasting plastic because it doesn't seem to want to print these right. below is a picture of what i'm trying to print compared to what i'm getting
for the slicer i'm using cura
does anyone know what is causing this and how it can be fixed?
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So far hot end lasts ....... ages
If I get prime moving like that I wipe the hot end (careful, it is hot!) with some tissue to clean off the gunk - that normally fixes it. Then rarely I do atomc, then even rarer I change out the nozzle for a clean (heat plus needle)!
paper towls not too hard to come by. and found out that helps tremendously. however. going to the pharmacy asking for hypodermic needles without a prescription is almost always a no go and not such a fresh image on myself.
is there any other easy to get alternatives for if/when there is a major jam.
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its not doing it anymore. i think it may have resolved itself. thanks! how long doe these hot ends last thogh?
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so, i'm new to the 3d printing world and we are having this odd issue. iv noticed the "prime" at the start of each print is starting to curl in on itself and has came close to adhering to the nozzle in a big goopy mess. iv also been experiencing the print itself bunching up from time to time. (near the start usually)
could this be caused by a hot end going out? haven't even went though 1 spool of PLA yet, how long are hot ends suppose to last?
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maybe. but nothing i would trust outdoors for years on end.
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problem found and salved. it turns out the controller board was overheating. got a replacement and installed and it seems to be working fine now!
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so i'm making a prototype for a product that will be exposed to weather. and i was wandering if there is a materal that is ruber-like to make gaskets?
i am aware i will have to treat the product itself and that normal objects 3d printed are NOT waterproof but this is just a concept model. is there such a material that anyone is aware of?
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is it possible the power supply is bad?
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and it froze again, luckily i had it being streamed for my personal record. it looks like the unit cut off entirely. even though all the other devices on the line remained on.
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just took notice they are working now. i suppose the bottom layers it just doesn't use them for better adhering to the base plate.
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Re the fans. There's an easy way to make sure they work by starting a print (any print) and then going into the Tune menu on the printer. In the Tune menu you can manually set the fan speed to 100% to make sure they spin up. If they don't, you should check the wire connections and make sure they're connected properly. The following link talks about the third fan on the print head but the same applies for the side fans as well. They're connected to the green and yellow wires:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#grinding_thirdFan
After you've done this you can simply turn off the power to the printer (if you exit out of the menu the printer will start printing if it has reached temperature). Actually to prevent burning yourself on accident you can dial down the temperatures while in the tune menu as well. That way things wont sit around hot while you work.
If the fans spin up as they should you most likely turned them off in the expert settings by mistake so check that.
currently working on a 13 hour print with no overhangs. ill let this finish before doing more experimentation
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iv also noticed our fans aren't running. its about 80-90 degrees in here don't think that is normal
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so i got my printer in today and its working great. on small prints that is. i printed the sample robot just fine. downloaded a thing off thingaverse (a lego) and it printed perfectly. the problem i had is when i went to go print a part i made. about 30 min into the print, it just stopped. (its a 9 hour print btw)
even shows on the display for the correct amount of time
and just froze in place. the screen was showing the normal home screen with print/maintenance etc. as if it finished
don't know what caused it. i had to re-calibrate the table to bring it down to get the part off and re-start. does anybody know what could of caused this?
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found the problem. wasn't a bug at all. i found out that option only appears if you have clicked your object at least once. a little strange. but i guess if you print multiple things at once it makes since. now just need to order the printer. and give it a print! thanks!
also i did the conversions and it is to scale thankfully
This should really be a CAD feature in my opinion.
Please provide a screen shot of any bugs in Cura regarding missing controls.
When I have a part scaled wrongly and it's too big I just scale by .03937 - I don't even think about it. I just *assume* the model is scaled in inches instead of mm. This works 90% of the time. Maybe 100%.
If it's too small it's probably in meters so I scale up by 1000X.
I think these 2 scalings have been the ONLY scalings ever needed. Ever. For a gazillion prints (okay for hundreds anyway).
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the scale i can deal with just using conversion. however the suggestion is still valid. having the option would be nice and covenant. sadly the states still use imperial for EVERYTHING and its damn annoying.
currently using it on:
CPU: AMD phenom II x4 965
RAM: 16gb @1600
video Nvidia GTX 450
OS: windows 7 64 bit
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i will give that a go. i not yet orderd my printer. it will be orderd some time this week. but as soon as i get it. i hope to do a sample to see if it does print 1/1 with google .dae files hopefully so it "looks" accurate. but with no mesureing tool its hard to say"
Suggestion to any devs: add a measuring tool!"
Suggestion to any devs: add toggle between imperial and metric
also. this still doesn't explain the bug about the tweeks at the bottom left vanishing after one use.
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so i'm about to make my first print and i have came across a couple bugs and limitations with the cura software.
1: bug, constantly have to reload my .dae for the "editing" tools rotate scale etc. to show up. which is annoying because if i want to do more than 1. it keeps vanishing
FIX- click object to get options
2. the product designed uses Imperial system (inches/feet) parts so i designed the system with that in mind. however the scaling for the prints is in metric. is there any way to toggle that to Imperial
3. Q. scaling. if you make something in google sketchup. does it keep the scaling that it was designed in sketch up?
A. the model was indeed to scale. according to conversions. actual print. TBD
e3d v6 upgrade getting thermal sensor error on my Ultimaker 2
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
so i may have gotten a little carried away with the micro-torch to clear a clogged nozzle and i MAY have melted the thermocouple to the heater block. so i took opportunity of this time to upgrade to a E3d kit. i bought the 12v kit with 3mm fittings to use with the ultimaker. i just finished installing it and i'm getting some error for the thermal sensor. it is plugged in. so idk why its throwing this fit. i did not do any firmware update. is that needed? iv seen Youtube videos of these kits being installed along with an extruder too. however I'm sticking with the stock extruder and didn't think i would need the firmware update? anyone have any luck upgrading to the e3d kits?