visu-al

if the part just needs to look good and you don't have a huge top gap to fill the infill isn't needed it can even make problems with some settings

Try this : https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/my-first-marvin?user=54644&timestamp=1426237694&otl-token=kZ2vbjIHF60RS021jD9xSma56li-0NeE0vb7cAywXG4&utm_medium=email&utm_source=transactional&utm_campaign=drupal_transactional It says: Layer Height: 0.1mm Shell Thickness: 0.4mm Retraction: enabled Bottom/Top Thickness: 0.6mm Fill: 0% Print Speed: 20mm/s Temp: 210C Bed Temp: 70C Filament Dia: 2.85 Flow: 100% No Support or Adhesion I also enabled combing and set the z-hop at 0.075

Here i created a little PDF how to do it with blender https://www.dropbox.com/s/t6dc9e9rywltl7n/CreateBoltsInBlender.pdf?dl=0 Start Blender and go to File/User Preferences Go to the Add-ons tab and in the upper left type in „bolt“ Click on the Box near the little man to activate the BoltFactory (In 3D Space) Press Shift + A for the „add“ menue choose category mesh and click on “Bolt“ Now don’t do anything expect type in all your values in the left lower box named Add Bolt If you can’t see that you need to press “t” to active the toolbar For using in Cura you need to scale everything from blender 10X ( press S, 10) (Edit) export to stl (while selected) VISU-AL

changing to 0.2mm layer height instead of 0.1 changed conductivity from around 200kOhm to around 20kOhm !

Wo steht denn der Drucker wenn man Ihn abholen würde?

I' interested do you live in vienna? Sprichst du deutsch?

Kommt auch ein Tauschhandel in Frage? Ich habe eine FPV Drohne mit Gopro läuft super stabil mit 3D Gimbal und macht geniale Aufnahmen bis über 4k mit Box und diversen Ersatzteilen verschiedene Dämpfer etc. Gesamtpreis wäre etwas höher als dein UM2 würde aber 1:1 tauschen

ha need to try that

@ swordriff don't you mean 0.05mm height? instead of 0.5

And if you know exactly how your thread should be and you know how to use blender then use blender addon bolt factory that creates good meshes to print and you can setup every value.

Kleber weg. Z-Stage etwas anheben (hinten) und Pappe entfernen. Die Konstruktionsplatte lässt sich leicht von Hand entlang des gewindes bewegen. Sie würde auch hochfahren über den Befehl "Raise Buildplate" im "Advanced" Menü Edit: Natürlich solltest du das manuelle bewegen besser bei ausgeschaltetem Drucker machen.

ein Freund von mir geht mehrmals im Jahr aus der Schweiz nach Köln, müsste Ihn mal fragen ob er sowas mitmachen würde..

Nice answer. But you say it yourself when the system is mixed it brings in problems. i would keep cura all metric to have no problems and you can buy a metric caliper for 5$ ?

for a single pass: model the stl to one solid piece (no shell) and in cura remove top/bottom and set shell to 0.4. thats it

@mnis Thank YOU for this design i'm using now. Ok then my two UM2's always print to thick not only on the bottom layer i needed to drill to at least 3.1 until i could insert the long screws without to much resistance.. I would make it wider so that it may stuck a bit on a small"elephants foot" so most people don't have to drill

No you don't need that stuff. if your printer doesn't just print fine after atomic pulls and you ptfe coupler is fine then there is another problem, especially if you have roberts feeder. can you push the filament trough the disconnected bowden without much resistance? if you set the feeder to hard, cut away this part of your filament because it can be ovaly deformed.. but first do 5 nice atomic pulls if you didn't allready do that..

i print with conductive filaments containing carbon. it's one of best surface quality i've seen regarding to matte look. but yes, it can be troubling sometimes but if you watch the printer it should go well. i use this at the moment: http://www.3dxtech.com/3dxnano-esd-petg-cnt/ printing on kapton tape

Why not just always scale to 0.0394 if you have designed in inches..? Is it coinsidence that this calculating factor ist very close to the small part of the golden ratio?

:oops:

No, the blob was created by not sticking on the glass so the printhead took everything with him moving around and stopped after some hours without an error and without showing print finished.. i did not pulled the cables, i just removed some of the chunk wich also was going around the whole nozzle block around the sensor and heater cables.. maybe pulling off this chunk broke the heater cable..

Today i found a big blob around the nozzle like i did before sometimes when something goes wrong.. ..but this time it was conductive filament reaching the heater cardrige and i think it made a short between the conductors cause just at the heater entrance, the conductor was burned up and disconnected the heater un-repairable. I made a ticket and ordered a new heater. What do you guys think? Was it because of the conductivity of the filament like i think?

Just ordered Block and nozzle kit. Went well so far. Thanks for this amazing upgrade oppurtunity!

@mnis your shorter version works well. ..but i always had to drill out the holes where the m3's from the printhead should fit. what size should they be?

sieht nach zu wenig top layer infill aus, was hast du da eingestellt?