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I just measured our official ESD equipment and it was always in the megaohm range, even higher then my actual prints so i can be sure now that it's ok for this purpose

that's what i tought as well. if you set fan speed the gcode regularly checks if fan speed set to zero as this is what usually is the setup in the gcode. when i had this problem i waited the print to start and then set the fans and leave it in the set fans menue that way it stays the value that is on the display..

We make just holders to insert electronics-platform-units for shipment in usual ESD boxes

ESD protection is also ok with this higher resistance if your product cannot charge up much and fast..

Yes, so it's about 300 kOhm.. it's a little to much but i can't print hoter then 260°C.. hmm

120mm/s and 0.2mm layer height??? gr5 is right it's about 3 times more then what would be ok

OK i recieved now the Filament from 3dxtech.com : After doing a testprint @ 245°C i was shocked.. absolutely no conductivity unlimited resistance WTF? But then i remembered that they mentioned that you can change restistance with temperature.. So i set temperature to 260°C and this worked: It has no warping, no shrinking, no problem to stick to the glass on 75°C bed temp. and it's strong i couldn't break it by hand. Now i'm able to print my ESD protection stuff. But to import this i payd about 100$ to shipment and taxes!!

Any news? Did you test it?

How do you setup such a fast retraction speed? My UM2 limits it to 45 mm/s..

ok but then i cannot serve you in this case i just got the stl file from here to make the changes in blender and there it's still a mesh and i export also to stl. but i will keep it in mind to be able to deliver such a file if i create a new fanduct

@ fabi580 wow i never heard about that, just readed some information i would love to have such a tool, what do you use ? you can download the stl from youmagine from my link i just posted but knowing i or someone else could simulate the airflow and heat i can try to figure out a good way to make perfect overhangs from all sides if it's possible..

I had issues as well. Some 3d files i was looking for where just gone and replaced by another from the sam designer but the title still remained.. that was frustrating as it occured on many designs not just on one. I uploaded my first file on youmagine today and after filling in the information i clicked next and it just return to the homescreen and all my entries were gone .. frustrating, but the second time it worked like it should.. so i agree and i would donate to rise this up as well

Für Roberts Feeder muss man unten ein Stück Bowden einfügen, dass man problemlos vom original abschneiden kann..

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fanduct-visnis1 Published as it seems to work like that. happy about feedback

This Version was slightly touching with the screw on them, so allready printed the right side in a size with better clearance this picture shows the old (left) and new (right) design: And here is a picture of the actual model rendered with red higlighted support structure:

I made it shorter and added holes to mount the fan (actually the fans are just taped on) printing this now to see fi it fits..

i just made a modification to the fanduct of mnis to make it shorter for our hitting sliderblock printed, installed and is working at the moment (touch-sliding under the sliderblocks) after some more tests and corrections i will maybe upload it

Also ordered this: http://www.3dxtech.com/3dxnano-esd-petg-cnt/ ..hoping that PET will stick better and warp less in this form

No, i don't have any

din hundertsta post I just made this mess with 40 lines of brim: It warps like crazy That's how it looks from the bottom:

@ swordriff Very good idea Thank you! I will try that, but unfortunately we don't have any regular ABS here, so i need to take some of my own at home with me tomorrow. OOPS: i don't think it's an option because it needs to be conductive -> i can't print even the first layer with non conductive material or i wouldn't have nice contact on the most important surface, the bottom (want to create electronics packaging)

sorry just forgot to mention that, was one of my first approaches hairspray :wink: but i didn't test all kind of hairsprays

@ TinkerGnome Yes, this definitely hits the sliderblock ! It's limited to the hight of the upper metal plate in the nozzle block. I know this because i made an own fan shroud design wich had this problem and im still working on one, now seeing this new approach of mnis i will probably redesign mine with some of this good ideas..

Hello I was trying hard to get this filament working on my UM2 (Roberts FeederV2): (conductive with high resistance for ESD protection) It seems to be ABS filled with carbon and i was able to print some stuff with it @ around 245°C and with a lot of glue and brim Overhangs are printed very nice There is just one remaining problem i can't solve: It does not stick good to anything (because of the carbon i think) [Edit:] It warps strongly I tryed: on glass (some different bed levels and different temps up to 110°C) on painters tape on kapton tape on double sided tape glue stick (some different approaches) reversed kapton tape fixed on double sided tape [edit] on hairspray Maybe do you guys have a nice idea how to stick this stuff to something or isn't it possible because it just warps to crazy ? Thank you all!

Grundsätzlich musst du nichts einstellen, wenn etwas nicht gedruckt wird, ist es entweder: zu klein für die maximale Auflösung des UM2's (maximale Breite definiert durch das Loch der Druckkopföffnung 0.4mm / Auflösung der höhe definiert durch Einstellung der Schichthöhe (minimal 0.02mm)) (würdest du aber in der Layerview erkennen) oder freihängend bzw. kein Support, so dass Material in der Luft nicht erstarren kann und da dann auch nichts sein wird ausser ein paar angehängte "Spagetthis" ein Extrusionsfehler andere Fehler ? Wie gesagt das beste ist mit Sicherheit wenn wir entweder deine STL bekommen (dropbox oder simple Email) oder wenigsten ein Foto des ausgedruckten Teils