nailcannon
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3D Prints
Posts posted by nailcannon
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The thing was working just last week. Now it hangs on the opening splash screen. Here is the output log:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "H:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.04.3\python\lib\site-packages\wx-2.8-msw-unicode\wx\_core.py", line 14660, in
lambda event: event.callable(*event.args, **event.kw) )
File "Cura\gui\splashScreen.py", line 15, in DoCallback
self.callback()
File "Cura\gui\app.py", line 103, in afterSplashCallback
from Cura.gui import mainWindow
File "Cura\gui\mainWindow.py", line 17, in
from Cura.gui import sceneView
File "Cura\gui\sceneView.py", line 28, in
from Cura.gui.util import previewTools
File "Cura\gui\util\previewTools.py", line 12, in
from Cura.gui.util import openglHelpers
File "Cura\gui\util\openglHelpers.py", line 17, in
glutInit() #Hack; required before glut can be called. Not required for all OS.
File "H:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.04.3\python\lib\OpenGL\GLUT\special.py", line 323, in glutInit
_base_glutInit( ctypes.byref(count), holder )
TypeError: 'NoneType' object is not callable
Can anybody help me please? I've updated my graphics drivers. Uninstalled and reinstalled just about every piece of software I can think might be related to cura. Any ideas?
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I suspect it's neither issue and that you just have slippery filament. Maybe tighten the feeder tension screw so it holds the filament tighter? How deep are the holes in the filement created by the feeder? You want them pretty deep like image on right:
It would seem that may be the issue. the holes are rather shallow. I'll tighten it and test tonight when i get back home. A follow up question. I make a lot of models so naturally my prints require quite a bit of retraction. But the constant retraction is making the feeder grind the filament down and stop extruding. what settings would you recommend to best counteract this while still retaining good quality?
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NkngkTIDmYR3VKanZhS3J4bjg/view?usp=sharing
I've been trying to print but it keeps extruding very unpredictably. It's Gizmo Dorks white PLA printing at 220 and 30mm/s. It's not skipping, at least i dont hear the sound of the feeder skipping. I'm really hoping it's not the filament being an inconsistent diameter. Any advice is much appreciated.
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White seems to be the color with the highest demand and i'm right about to run out of the roll that came with my printer. What do you guys recommend?
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I have not! Good to know its fixed.
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I'm not sure but I feel like the way it works is it just plops the necessary code to stop the print at the end of the gcode buffer but still executes what's in front of the stop code first. I'm kind of annoyed at aborting the print and then hearing the feeder skipping because it keeps trying to extrude despite the heating element being off.
Is there any way to speed up the time between pressing the button and seeing the result? Apply this to other settings like speed as well. I accidentally set the speed too low a couple times and had to wait forever for it to speed up again.
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I have a roll of their gold PLA and while it's not brittle at all it is a bit soft. it tends to get ground up by the feeder a bit easier than other filaments but not enough for me to consider it lesser filament.
I did, however, just get a roll of Matter Hackers blue PLA and jesus this stuff is the most brittle material i've ever seen. i cant even get a good print out of it because the bending force caused by the filament guide is enough to snap it. as is the force from the feeder itself. the only way i've been able to change it out is to let the feeder snap it on the way out and push it through the disconnected bowden tube with another piece of filament.
anyone have strategies for reducing brittleness? would subjecting it to humidity or water for a while soften it up?
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I think the OP should clarify but I believe he/she is looking for something to permanently bond parts together as opposed to sticking things to the build plate.
Yep. Bonding parts together. i normally use super glue but i'd like something that can hide seams as well and is relatively easy to apply.
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As i understand dissolving ABS into a bottle of acetone will make a glue-like substance that can be used to stick prints together. Will it stick PLA together as well as it will ABS? If so can anyone recommend a cheap, clear ABS i can use for the process? Thanks.
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I have an image that i would like to cut out of the back of a phone case. It's basically a sketch with well defined borders and was wondering what would be the best way to do so. I currently have Inventor pro 2015(free as a student) and cant figure out how to accomplish my task. Is there a better program that is more intuitive than Inventor? I feel like it may be a bit overkill and that there's some other program that can do it much easier.
Here's am image of what i have so far: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NkngkTIDmYUmFmZ0dvak5UNmM/view?usp=sharing
I imported it as a PNG and can't get it to emboss or extrude correctly.
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I must say I am impressed. I placed my order on Saturday(25th). On Monday i decided I wanted to get the shipping address changed from my apartment to my workplace so I emailed them and Aaron responded within 20 minutes throughout the whole process so the situation got fixed very quickly. I was told they were out of stock but were expecting the new shipment on Wednesday so I waited only to be pleasantly surprised when they got them a day early. After a slight hiccup from my end on the payment process the printer was shipped and in my hands by Friday.
If you're ordering in America or Canada I highly recommend Dynamism.
Why did we abandon weight for length for material use?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I don't really understand the logic for the change. It would really be very much appreciated if we went back to using weight, or both. You buy the material by weight, not length. Figuring out how much a print will cost takes an annoying conversion while if it was in weight it would be a very simple proportion. Are there any advantages to measuring in length?