ignace-de-keyser

Thanks for your replies all!

Hello, It has been a while since I have been on the forums, looks like the layout has changed, so i'm not sure if I am at the correct subsection. I was wondering if there is a way to choose the Z-seam. Instead of placing the Z-seam location inside the print, makeing it invisible, I was wondering if it was possible to explicitly move the Z-seam outside the print. This way the Z-seam would not be part of the printed object. I tend to print Hollow prints, so putting the Z-seam on the insid to obscure it does not really work

still better than my photos

Made a new lamp for my mother's birthday. circles are lasercut, the spacemaker-holder-thingies are flexible pla for easy asemblind/disassembling. Insipired by Olaf Weller's lamps.

I made a new lamp. Inspired by Olaf Weller. The circles are mdf laser cut, the spreaders are black flex pla.

Hey titus, I stopped by at IO yesterday and there was an XXL- ultimaker demonstrated in the main hall. It was a project made by students under the super vision of Joris van tubergen (http://www.rooiejoris.nl/), the creator of the joris-style (now spiralize). here is the weblog of their project. http://ultimakerxxl2014.weblog.tudelft.nl/ In my opinion the prints of the XXL printer (the one with increased x and z axis) were verly low quality; (warping (no heated bed), high layer height, very visible z-line(something really funky happening because the printer had 2 x-axis. They also printed a piece of an elephant head and a vase with a ultmaker with increased z axis only. Those pieces looked really nice, but the vase was not functional due to the cura 13.9 cura bug which makes a small opening every layer height, make the vase not water tight.

I just saw a ultimaker XL printing at .mm layer height. It had a 0.8mm nozzle. So if you want higher layer hieght, you could get a wider nozzle.

Looks like his experiment backfired. :cool:

Does it function or is it a prop? I can't imagine it working.

Ik vrees dat het me niet lukt. Heb het net te druk met mijn tentamens.

Nuja dan vallen wellicht in onze eerdere discussie waarbij het parametrisch ontwerp een meerwaarde kan bieden voor het individu, maar moeilijk te visualiseren en communiceren is bij de aanbieding van het product, en dat je hierom verkiest voor de one-size-fits-all, een lamp is immers geen schoen.

Ik ben filosofisch tegen de gedachte van serieproductie met 3D printers. 3D printen is ideaal voor prototypes, zelfgebruik, complexe vormen of unieke ontwerpen (al-dan-niet parametrisch, denk aan wisselbare afmetingen, een andere lettercombinatie e.d). Als je iets in serie wilt produceren kan je beter gaan kijken naar andere productiemethoden. Maar dit is mijn mening.

just guessing, I guess.

whoa, weird. Maybe something to do with that hidden z-line feature. Im ,just guessing here, im stumped.

I use the same method as your fire technique, only I just melt the tips of the filament (make sure they are really nice and flat) and push them together while they are molten. afterwards you can use a file to get it nice and smooth, alternatively you can make your soldering iron hotter and burn the excess material away. edit: typos².

I have had this issue before and it is caused by a too high layer height and/or a too high speed. when printing in spiralized mode the layer won't always stick to the layer below it. Because the surface area is very small , and the head moves relatively uickly, the head "pulls" the filament with it, which causes gaps. I advice you to reduce layer height or reduce the speed

Ok I found out what I did wrong, retraction was turned off which caused to extrude on places where it shouldn't ( at the z-line).

Ondanks ik nog niet zo lang en niet zo actief deelneem aan het forum, kom ik misschien wel. Klinkt iig aanlokkelijk.

I use a soldering iron

Ive experienced greatly increased printtimes when printing wih low infill % (0%). I think it is caused due to the hidden z-line implementation, which in my opininion dedreases the printquality. I hope you consider giving us an option to turn the hidden z-line off. In the meanwhole II will be using older versions. I will post some pictures next week to show what I mean, because im bad at explaining what I mean.

I wonder if this works with spiralized setting

You shouldn't give away files if you don't want to. @nightwish, you can buy them on his website.

@valcrow I started with burning it out, but the fumes made me dizzy so I attacked it with a stanley knife. Does anyone know if the fumes are toxic? It was PLA. The lamp itself is quite heavy,I estimate 3kilos or more. I didn't test it's fragility incase I break it, but it seems quite strong.

I use geomagic for these things.

I also made a lamp. I made the mold using the ultimaker, casted with concrete. You can still see the layer lines and the mesh polygons in the concrete. apologies for the bad images.